14ers.com • Peak Condition Update

Peak:	Mt. Bancroft (13er)
Route:	East Ridge
Range:	Front
Posted By:	AlexeyD
Date of Info:	08/17/2014
Date Posted:	08/18/2014

Details
The notch rappel currently has a fully redundant anchor, with two independent pieces of red webbing (good condition) and two beefy rap rings. There's also a second anchor (a slung block on a small ledge about 15' below the edge of the main drop-off), but there seems no logical reason to use it (rope pull out of the notch was not an issue at all). We mostly stayed on the ridge, and belayed two sections - the short headwall right after the notch, and the second, longer headwall after the "knife edge" after the first headwall. While the "knife edge" did not feel all that exposed, it's so close to the second second headwall that we kept the rope out, since we planned to use it there. From the top of the first crux, it's about a rope length along the ridge to a convenient belay spot (slingable block) for the second crux. For the second crux, while we belayed all the way to the top of the gendarme (which has a perfect anchor block for a belay), the upper half of the headwall is pretty much third or easy fourth class, and if we were to do it again we'd probably belay lower down to avoid rope drag.

Details

The notch rappel currently has a fully redundant anchor, with two independent pieces of red webbing (good condition) and two beefy rap rings. There's also a second anchor (a slung block on a small ledge about 15' below the edge of the main drop-off), but there seems no logical reason to use it (rope pull out of the notch was not an issue at all).

We mostly stayed on the ridge, and belayed two sections - the short headwall right after the notch, and the second, longer headwall after the "knife edge" after the first headwall. While the "knife edge" did not feel all that exposed, it's so close to the second second headwall that we kept the rope out, since we planned to use it there. From the top of the first crux, it's about a rope length along the ridge to a convenient belay spot (slingable block) for the second crux.

For the second crux, while we belayed all the way to the top of the gendarme (which has a perfect anchor block for a belay), the upper half of the headwall is pretty much third or easy fourth class, and if we were to do it again we'd probably belay lower down to avoid rope drag.

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