Peak:  Ypsilon Mountain (13er)
 Route:  Blitzen
 Range:  Front
 Posted By:  Monster5
 Date of Info:  08/24/2014
 Date Posted:  08/24/2014

Blitzen Ridge dry. We didn't use the webbing after the third ace, but it appeared there were a few new loops and the ring was in good condition. One squall hit around 4PM but it didn't leave much.

1st Ace - bypassed left via exposed ledges at cl4. Prob would just climb over this one next time (5.4?).
2nd Ace - same, but easier bypass. The downclimb looks quite a bit harder.
3rd Ace - climb direct at 5.4, route-finding. Downclimb at 5.0 (exposed and zig-zaggy) or rap.
4th Ace - Directly on the ridge requires a 5.7ish handcrack with major exposure. Looked like another 5.7 right. Left of the arete was apparently steep 5.easy with interesting holds. Std route follows exposed ledges up and right at 5.2ish.
Headwall - slightly left of ridge down low (5.0) then head on. Dihedral then a mantle at 5.4. Heard there might be a 5.0 bypass.

Rest 3/4.

Note: there was a cougar hanging out in the shortcut gully up from Ypsilon Lake at 4AM - we failed to intimidate it and wound up hiking around via Spectacle. I grabbed a Gandalf staff and yelled at it. Threw a few rocks near him. The cougar was unimpressed and my ego took a blow.

Also, frigid wind.

Tacked on the rest of Mummy Mania to Fairchild, Hagues, Rowe x 2, and Mummy, descending SE slopes to cairned faint trail. Dry. Talus. So much talus. Bleh talus. Class 2. 17 hrs with way too much gear in the packs.

 Comments or Questions
Dave B

Jeebus tap dancing christoper
08/25/2014 17:45
That is a freaking long day, damn...

I bet that wind was bad too, we were getting blasted down at Lumpy Ridge, I can't even imagine what it was like on ridge lines...


08/26/2014 15:45
The technical part was fairly sheltered. The rest was brutal but a convenient 15-50 mph tailwind did help out with the 1200 ft slog up Hagues. Sarah and Dom were near Twin Owls at Lumpy and reported similar blasting.


08/28/2014 14:48

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