14ers.com • Peak Condition Update

Peak:	Teakettle Mountain (13er)
Route:	Black gully
Range:	San Juan
Posted By:	ngoodnight
Date of Info:	08/29/2014
Date Posted:	08/29/2014

Details
Climbed Teakettle this morning. The recent storm left a spattering of snow above 12k - maybe 1". The crux of the day was down climbing from Coffepot to the base of the black gully, only because that entire section contained firm snow and occasional ice on the rocks. We used micro spikes, and I wouldn't have done it without them. Not enough snow for more serious traction. I imagine most of the snow will be gone if it stays sunny for a couple days. Considering I scanned a few trip reports looking for gear references, here is what we used: 30m rope, one 0.5 Camalot with shoulder sling for extension (perfect placement about half way up), two double length runners to sling the natural at the summit.

Details

Climbed Teakettle this morning. The recent storm left a spattering of snow above 12k - maybe 1". The crux of the day was down climbing from Coffepot to the base of the black gully, only because that entire section contained firm snow and occasional ice on the rocks. We used micro spikes, and I wouldn't have done it without them. Not enough snow for more serious traction. I imagine most of the snow will be gone if it stays sunny for a couple days.

Considering I scanned a few trip reports looking for gear references, here is what we used: 30m rope, one 0.5 Camalot with shoulder sling for extension (perfect placement about half way up), two double length runners to sling the natural at the summit.

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