Peak:  Pilot Knob A (13er)
 Route:  blah
 Range:  San Juan
 Posted By:  Monster5
 Date of Info:  09/20/2014
 Date Posted:  09/20/2014

All peaks free of fresh snow. Clouds started building around 11 but rain didn't hit until 2pm or so. Haven't heard any boomers yet.

Advice: do these peaks in early summer with snow climb approaches and prime views.

Ice Lakes Trail > Pilot Knob NE Ridge (class 4): Mostly dry with some damp trail spots. Missed the initial social trail up the scree. That was annoying. Curl around the N and W slopes on the good social trail until the rather obvious weakness and cairns pick up. Good scramble up and left to the ridge. Go over the first tower and left around the second. Rap station is in good condition, but the crux move is actually easier to reverse as it slightly ascends away from the summit.

Pilot Knob > Golden Horn (class 2 once off PK). Social trail on W side stays below the summit cliffs then drops below a second cliff band. Contour around to the saddle. Scree. Bypass the big Golden Horn headwall by following the social trail over to the SW ridge. Hike that to the summit at 2nd with optional fun.

Golden Horn > Vermillion (class 3, optional spice): I thought this section had the most fun variations, but some spots are a bit loose. Bypass the stuff you don't like left. Same with the summit block, though there's a low fifth dihedral that's probably more fun than the scree gully.

Vermillion > Fuller (class 1/2): Follow the trail.

Fuller > Beatty (class 2): Social trail switchbacks directly down the ridge. Nicer than it looks from above. Another option is to go back to the Verm/Fuller saddle and take the trail down to the Full/Beat saddle. Talus hike up B.

Beatty > V8or9or10orwhatevertheheck): Probably the most interesting class 2 around. Nice catwalk, optional 3rd.

V8or9orwhatever SE Ridge to SW facing scree gully ski (class 2): Thought this was reasonable and more enjoyable than going all the way to Hope Pass. Descended Mineral Creek trail/road and re-hiked up to my car at the Clear Lake switchback.

8 hrs. 12.5mi/6200. Could save 1.5 hrs with shuttle. Or park at the mine road around 10200ish on the Mineral Creek Rd and take the old mine track around into Lower Ice Lakes. This would save a couple miles and 1Kish vert.

 Comments or Questions

09/21/2014 19:51


nice crush
09/23/2014 18:02


Suck up
09/24/2014 03:34
Got some brown on your nose, Hollywood Abe


09/29/2014 16:26
I prefer the ”whatever” route to the ”blah” one.

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