|Peak:||McHenrys Peak (13er)|
|Route:||Black Lake/Stone Man Pass|
|Date of Info:||09/13/2015|
Hillhag & slowhead finally got to the summit of McHenrys, after several failed attempts (weather) in recent years. Stone Man Pass is completely clear of snow, so an ugly scree climb, but relatively short. We went west from Black Lake, and there are some challenging moments in getting up that wall, 4th class certainly. Once up on the shelf below Arrowhead, it's the same as the standard route, up Stone Man Pass. However, the guidebooks can be problematic in talking about "going to the second gully, past the rock rib". If you instead do an upward traverse of the main talus field northwest from Stone Man Pass, there are sufficient cairns to help guide a good path. About 400 vertical feet from the summit, you cross over (on a little Maroon-type notch) to the "second gully." This approach bypasses all the awful scree of the second gully, and there's also what seems to be a permanent snowfield in there, despite being north-facing. While there is a fair amount of 3 to 3+ climbing doing that upward angling traverse, it was much better than dropping down and climbing that entire second gully. Incredible summit, a must-do. May be the best summit view in RMNP.
Photos (click for slideshow):