Unnamed 13722  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: LP Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-20, By: dcruz654
Info: Stream crossing was difficult to find in the dark, I ended up going pretty far and crossing over a snow bridge. On the way back I just took my shoes off and walked through the shallowest point. Route finding is pretty straight forward into the upper basin, gps track is handy (I used usakeller's). Did my best to avoid snow until the base of the couloir up which was at 12,300'. Snow was nice in firm at 6am. It was cupped and textured enough is was basically walking up steep stairs in the bottom section. Choke is the steepest point. Snow peters out around around 13,1000'. Once on the saddle the ridge up is easy class 2/+. Traverse over to thunder wasn't too bad. I mostly opted to traverse forward and right via ledges, occasionally looking back and up to climb in places I could keep it class 3. Definitely did some 4th climbing by choice though. Descended standard/white gulley off thunder. Snow starts at 13,600 and was still firm at 930, but I was able face out the whole way down. I honestly feel that LP-TP was the better way to climb these. Not because of upclimbing the class 4, but because of the top sections of each gulley. Thunder's seemed much better to descend sans snow. Left parking at 3am. Stream crossing at 4:30. Base of lp couloir at 6. Summit of lp 7:45. Summit of thunder 915 Back at car at 1pm for a rt time of 10hrs including breaks. Pics 1.Gaining upper basin 2.choke is narrow but wider than it looks 3.lp register, needs pen. 4.third class stuff en route to thunder 5.on a ledge system looking back to LP 6.pyramid from thunder 7.descent off thunder, red rocks are steep but they go to the snow 8.white gulley snow 9.same 10.red-gps track route (i assume) yellow-my descent, blue-lp couloir 
10
 
Route: Gully
Posted On: 2019-06-01, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: This peak is "lightning pyramid" which is right next to thunder pyramid. Left TH at 430, put on skis at crater lake, summit at 830. Contrary to the wildwanderer conditions report, I found the snow to be in nearly perfect climbing condition provided you get down before the sun hits it- sun hits the gully around 945 There is a runnel running up the gully to lightning pyramid, in the runnel it is very secure front pointing. Threre is about 300 vertical feet near a constriction where it makes sense to be in the runnel and you'll have some snow coming down on you if it's windy up higher. Near the constriction there are a few steps of Alpine ice/snice up to 50-55 deg, but for the most part it hovers around 40-45 degrees to the ridge. I found one ice tool to be adequate. Outside of the runnel is featured snow that you can get steps in. There is a step around a yellow rock after you reach the Ridgeline, then it's pretty straight forward to the summit. Overall I felt this climb was similar in character to thunder pyramid except for it was steeper 
6
 
Route: Ledge Traverse from Thunder Pyramid
Posted On: 2018-09-30, By: CarpeDM
Info: I went down the gully from the saddle with Thunder. Unless you have good snow conditions, for the love of all that is holy, DO NOT EVER GO DOWN THAT GULLY! No snow or ice on the Thunder white gully route, the traverse to Lightning, or the descent. Also, if you are going up, the baby-food-jar-sized summit register needs a short writing utensil (probably no more than 3-4 inches, unless you also bring a bigger container). I screwed up and dropped the pencil between some rocks. 
2
 
Route: Lightning couloir
Posted On: 2018-06-20, By: illusion7il
Info: The couloir is still in where ya need it, then its all skree to the saddle. 
2
 
Route: Lightning couloir
Posted On: 2018-05-20, By: sdkeil
Info: The couloir was in great shape and continuous to the saddle, although it is starting to get a little thin in places. I would say this line will be in prime condition for only another week, maybe two. The snow was very firm in the morning and softened up nicely on the descent. Others have already talked about the approach and I will echo the comments of supportive snow in the morning and post holing in the afternoon, but leave the snow shoes at home. 
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Route: Maroon Lake Approach
Posted On: 2018-05-20, By: BobbyFinn
Info: Flotation not needed. Wore crampons from the creek crossing to creek crossing. Snow in the couloir was very hard on the ascent - couldn't kick steps most places. We used ice axes & ice tools on much of the 1st half of the couloir and were glad we had both. Couloir is melted for the last 100-200 feet of the ascent - loose talus remains. Loose rock on the summit ridge. Get up and down early before the snow gets too soft - was sporty on the descent due to rapidly softening snow. 
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