Peak Fifteen  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: South Couloir via Ruby Basin
Posted On: 2020-09-09, By: Marmot72
Info: Route was as dry as could be wished for, with only a few traces of water in the ascent gully, but then the peak got 6-12 inches of snow on 9/8. Register has no writing utensil. 
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Route: South Couloir via Ruby Basin
Posted On: 2020-08-16, By: angry
Info: Hiked in 17 miles from Purgatory to camp at ~11,400. Ascended the couloir east of Peak 15 between Little Finger and Point 13,290 which was crap scree. From the saddle, we made a descending traverse to about ~12,500 to the south facing col. There was some water running in the class 4 section but it is easy climbing so we just scrambled up. We traversed over to the 5.4 crux pitch and that is when we brought out the rope, placing only one nut for pro. This was also very short and easy. From there, a quick jaunt to the summit. On the descent, we missed the first two rappel stations and ended up down climbing to the rap anchor that puts you at the 15/16 saddle. A quick ascent of 16 and then we down climbed to the top of the wet class 4 section and used the two rap anchors there to descend. 
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Route: South Couloir via Ruby Basin
Posted On: 2020-07-01, By: Jakomait
Info: Bit of snow and wet rock up the S Couloir, upper part is totally dry. Rap anchors are in OK shape, most have some new steel biners on them, thanks to who ever did that. 
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Route: South Couloir via Ruby Basin
Posted On: 2018-07-03, By: illusion7il
Info: The peak is so dry there wasn't even a trickle of water in the couloir. Took a beating pushing my way up and down the New York creek drainage. All rap stations had 4-5 pieces of webbing/slings and I'm sure they are all from last year, but they obviously all held me. Smoke got very dense in the afternoon. Summit pic was at 2pm. Big thanks to Hoot for putting up the route description as it worked perfectly. The republic of Texas summit register is in rough shape. John Kirk started a new one last year is the only signature. Thoughts: The rock quality is horrible. I can not believe how many hand and foot placements just crumbled away. Hopefully I cleaned up the climb a little for the next person. There is no way I could have climbed this without rock shoes. A 60m rope worked great for all the rappels. 
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Route: South Face
Posted On: 2017-08-10, By: Stratosfearsome
Info: Peak 15 today from camp at Ruby Lake. Animas and Monitor on Tuesday after I aborted my first attempt on fifteen because of 8am rain storms. Too dangerous. Wednesday it rained at 6:30am. Took a rest day. Not a drop all day today, Thursday, 8/10/17. Backpacked out to Purgatory Flats after the climb. Ouch. Anyways, Peak 15 is a chossy, steep, complex beast. The 15-16 couloir has zero snow, but quite a bit of water running down it. Various places on the face were wet from monsoon seepage, but avoidable. The gully up from Ruby Basin, east of little finger has some snow coverage but I bypassed it easily on the left (east.) Free solo up, rappelled one 70 foot section back to 15-16 saddle. Bring your A game. Also, strangely, there was a Republic of Texas Mountaineers summit register up top. Wonder how that got there... 
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