Torreys Peak  
Condition Updates  
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2021-04-15, By: jscully205
Info: Slogged up Dead Dog in hopes to ski it. Zero visibility at the time of summit lead to decision to hike down to saddle and ski from there where could see. Climbing itself was a lot of wallowing, especially lower by the apron, firmer conditions in the middle and even more intense wallowing near the exit. It's in condition to ski though, a better to ski than to climb right now. 
3 1
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-04-03, By: mgift
Info: We skinned from the winter trailhead to the base of the ridge, I imagine post holing through the willows section would be an issue without proper flotation (especially in the afternoon). We gave Kelso Mountain a wide berth, although we did see a fresh track down it on our decent. Kelso Ridge had winter like conditions - ice ace and crampons required. The first crux was mostly snow filled (first photo). The second crux had a thin layer of sugary snow with some exposed rock (second photo). For the third crux (third photo), we climbed up the snow covered ramp. We could walk across the knife edge. We saw a loose wet natural slide off of Torreys east face when we reached the valley floor. 
4
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-03-09, By: CaptCO
Info: Thanks supran for the beta. Booted to kelso upper saddle & used crampons/axe. Partner went standard, I took the class 4 bypasses which were fun. Came down torreys with spikes and ended up just before the private property sign. Don't jam out to music and pass the trail split, those willows are DEEP DEEP 
15 2
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2021-03-07, By: supranihilest
Info: Kelso Ridge is in amazing shape right now. Snow on the majority of the ridge is solid enough for comfortable cramponing. The first crux is packed with snow and pretty easy. The white wall crux is steep and snowy but there's a couple of options to get up it, including scooting around it to the right and over a rib. The slab prior to the knife edge has garbage snow on it, but the headwall to the left of the slab is great and goes at Class 3. The knife edge can be walked across currently, and the white tower at the end is in good shape both going over it and going around to the right. The final few hundred feet to the top are covered in good snow. Flotation to reach the ridge is not necessary, but I would consider traction (crampons > microspikes) and an axe mandatory. 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2021-03-06, By: hogantheepic
Info: Good snow conditions today, spring is ready to pop! Mostly dry up to the first little peak before Cupid, then most of the route has a bit of snow and rock. Did not use microspikes at all the whole day, though they would've helped in a few places. The final ridge going up Torreys has this strange little chute filled with snow that would've been great/safe to ski though perhaps not worth dragging the skis all the way along the ridge for. The snow on top was somewhat wet by around 10 am with a hard slab underneath. Gaiters are highly recommended right now for this route. Lots of lines on neighboring peak look like they might go wonderfully in spring with a safer snowpack. The north slopes of grays was completely dry except for the north slopes route trail switchbacking up the face, which looked to have enough snow on it that it could be skied, even all the way to the summit possibly. 
5
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2021-03-01, By: Trotter
Info: Cupid/Grizzly D/Torreys/Grays from loveland pass, finishing at bakersville. No traction or floatation needed until between descent of Grizzly, towards Torreys. Traction and ice axes were needed on a steep, hard snow section there. A slip would have been bad. Didn't need anything until the winter variation detour around kelso mountain. Followed some ski tracks across the flat areas with some occasional postholing. Snowshoes would be useful, but we were glad we didn't carry snowshoes for maybe 30 postholes all day. Everything is about half exposed rocks and half snow of maybe 1-6 inches deep. Looks like november up there. Kelso mountain not holding much snow, but still might slide on the side closest to summer trailhead. 
2
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2021-02-22, By: headsizeburrito
Info: Loveland Pass to Cupid/Grizzly/Torreys/Grays and back. Wore spikes all day, never deep enough to want snowshoes. 50/50 bare and packed snow from pass to ridge, a bit more snow to Cupid but not much. Some drifts past Cupid but no issues. Big cornices on Peak 12936, easily avoided by staying on the area with exposed rock west of the ridgeline, no need to get close to the edge. Ascent to Grizzly is rocky and loose, takes time/energy but no major hazards. Descent from Grizzly towards Torreys is the most hazardous area for the first couple hundred yards. To stay away from minor cornices and soft snow on the ridgeline/north slope you have to drop south slightly, but this is also quite steep and snow covered. Microspikes were borderline for this section and an axe would have been good to have, a slip could result in a long slide. Once the slope becomes gentler it's fine. Ascent to Torreys is long but uneventful, same with Grays. Crappy weather to start but turned into a nice day. For some reason captions sometimes don't work for me, so pic descriptions are: 1) Lovely morning wind and great visibility, forget what I'm even looking at here, maybe Grizzly? 2) Grays from Torreys summit once the skies cleared and the wind settled down a bit 3) Kelso/McClellen from Torreys summit 4) Torreys from Grays summit 5) Grizzly from saddle with Torreys 6) Looking back at G&T from Grizzly 7) Cornices on Peak 12936, easily avoided by sticking to the area with exposed rock 
7 5
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2021-02-01, By: Vglopes89
Info: Hiked from I70 parking lot. Once we left the road and crossed the creek to the base of the Couloir it was waist deep power. With 30in snow shoes we were still postholing every single step. Not sure the best technique would be for this..hovercraft maybe? By far the most frustrating part of the day. Couloir was mostly hard packed. Crampons and axe required. Small sections of ice only at the bottom and some of knee/thigh snow towards the top. Definitely not skiable 
5
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2021-02-01, By: dwoodward13
Info: Route is in excellent condition. Booted up the road. Bathroom is open and well stocked with TP. Put on spikes here and used them the rest of the day. Didn't bring snowshoes and never would have wanted them. Route is very well packed down. The Kelso avy trap has previously slid directly over the summer route (and the route people were packing in today). There is a portion that had not slid, and still looked pretty loaded with the trail going directly across, so we bypassed that section lower down. Minor postholing here but not a big deal. Rest of the way up Grays and then over to Torreys was straightforward. I'd probably want an ax for the Torreys shortcut back to the main trail. Hard packed snow with a poor runout. Saw several people looking extremely uncomfortable with this (crawling on all fours, ect). We didn't use our axes, but in hindsight we should have taken the 30 sec to get them out. All in all, about as good of conditions as you are gonna get for these two right now! 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-12-06, By: Will_E
Info: Spectacular day up on G&T. I started at the I-70 lot, ascended Kelso Ridge, across to Grays, then descended Grays standard route. I took the entire ensemble (crampons, snowshoes, axe, microspikes), but didn't use any of it. The road is well packed down, a few vehicles made it to the parking area a mile or so up, didn't look like anyone attempted to get farther. After getting far enough into the valley to see both mountains, I left my snowshoes. Some very minor postholing, but not worth putting snowshoes on for. Keslo Ridge had some challenging sections due to snow. 
12
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-11-28, By: rudyking69
Info: Started from 2 wheel parking lot in bakersville at 4:50 am, 4x4 road is completely snowed in, looked like a few cars tried to drive it in, vut only a couple made it to about 1/2 mile in and looked like they struggled, I was glad to have walked. We made it to upper lot 2hrs later no snowshoes required up to now, snow was pretty solid and compacted for the first mile on the trail into the valley, eventually we did have to put them on for 1 mile or so until we got to the Kelso ridge. We should had left snowshoes at the split because after that we really didn't used them again until we got back down to the valley again. The snow on the Kelso ridge varied from no snow at all to chest deep wind blown snow. We wore cramp-ons the whole time on the ridge, most of the snow on the ridge was pretty soft with a few icy spots. The knife edge had at least 12 inches on the left side, but none on the right side of it which made for a weird straddle. There were at least 2 other sections before knife edge that I thought were more difficult becaude of amount of snow and all holds buried under. We made it to the summit at 12 pm with epic weather. We considered doing Grays, but blahh we had both done it before and rrally after that kelso ridge it wasn't going tonbe exiting at all. Headed back down still wearing cramp-ons all the way down to the valley where we changed into snowshoes for the rest of the way by this time snow in valley was really soft. Made it to my car at 4:00pm 11hrs after starting, I think I may have minor frostbite to my right foot, but overall a great day well worth it!! I will be uploading full YouTube video of my climb soon check out my channel on the link below https://www.youtube.com/c/Theninjaonthemountains 
11
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-22, By: Lithobatiks
Info: Mostly summer conditions. There's one stretch of snow that is hard to avoid and makes it pretty sketchy right around 14000'. 
2
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-18, By: Marshall
Info: Mostly dry the whole way. There are a couple spots with some snow, but I avoided them all with a little extra scrambling. The standard trail is dry up to Torreys. 
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2020-10-18, By: jcapp
Info: Great time to do this hike. Summer conditions without the crowd. Pretty much no snow at all. Despite being a Sunday, I saw only a handful of groups. Started the hike at 7am, parking lot was about half full at that point. Got to the summit of Grays at 9am and only saw one group. Summited Torrey's at 9:40 and was by myself for about 15 minutes. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-08, By: supranihilest
Info: Summer conditions. 
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2020-10-02, By: lauradaughtry
Info: Took the standard Grays and Torreys loop, started at 5:15am on 10/01 (a Thursday). There was very, very little human traffic (we saw less than 20 other people the whole day). Ended up being a completely beautiful day with hardly a cloud in the sky. Visibility was great from both peaks, despite some nearby wildfire smoke. Absolutely no micro-spikes or any snow gear needed, though clothing layers for below freezing temperatures were needed. It was RIDICULOUSLY windy at the saddle and on the summit of Grays. (Not much wind at all on the summit of Torreys.) Recommend bundling way up, lots of layers, face protection from the wind, and thick gloves (hand warmers were a lifesaver during the windier gusts). 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-27, By: Ericsheffey
Info: Did Kelso Ridge to Torreys & Grays on Friday 9/25. Conditions were dry throughout, except for two very small patches of snow on Kelso Ridge, but no traction was needed at any point (however, please add microspikes to your pack anyway, as it's that time of year). No smoke over the peaks today, but the views were a little hazy in the distance. As is true most days on these peaks, the winds were fierce and layers were needed to stay warm. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-21, By: Scott Conro
Info: As Piotr stated, some snow and ice after the knife edge below the white rock on the north side for about 30 horizontal feet. Many dry places to put feet with careful footwork, and going without spikes was perfectly adequate, but some may feel more confident having traction just in case. Snow/ice on the rest of route was avoidable. Maybe avoid this route if you're lacking alpine experience or at least do good research. Some guy brought a friend from out of state for her first 14er, and the guy was completely unable to find the easy lines and had her screaming and crying on multiple occasions. It was awful for her and not a pleasant experience for anyone on the ridge. Don't be that guy. 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-21, By: RJ_Greenhorn24
Info: Route is mostly snow free except for a few sections in the last 3rd of the route, all can be avoided. Some snow from the white rock up to the summit, but can also be avoided. 
Route: Ruby Ridge-Grays-Torreys-Grays South Slopes
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Ridge connecting Ruby and Grays is dry and is a great opportunity to find gratuitously difficult short sections for spicing up an otherwise straightforward Class 3 route. Some sections of snow on the trail between Grays and the Torreys saddle, but not bad enough to require traction. South slopes trail back to Argentine Pass TH is loose and somewhat annoying; my partner and I half-jokingly lamented that we might have had an easier time taking the ridge back down. 

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