Torreys Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2020-09-07, By: Sambvaughan
Info: Chances are, if you're reading this, you know snow is forecast for tomorrow, so I don't know how helpful this report may be. As for today, very windy. Gusts were easily over 50mph at times, temps up top were probably in the low 40s would be my guess. No snow whatsoever on route... but packed with people. It was like a little parade with folks coming up and down. Fairly brisk September day - Torrey's was perfect at 7:30 though. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-09, By: Gandalf69
Info: I went with some friends for a quick jaunt up kelso Saturday. Ridge cool. Was probably 1000 people about between 2 peaks. About 30 percent masked up. Double parking on road on way out....I'm just glad my car made it through leaving lol. 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-01, By: Ericsheffey
Info: Did Kelso Ridge on 7/29, then summitted Torreys and Grays. As expected, full summer conditions. A little bit of loose rock here and there, but easier side of Class 3 IMO. Knife edge wasn't near as daunting as expected, it was solid rock with plenty of holds. Class 4 fun can be found throughout the route by staying closer to ridge proper if that's what you're into. Great day in the mountains, and repeat summits for me up on G&Ts. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-29, By: jordanthebuff
Info: Great route! Arrived at the trailhead around 4 AM and the lot was mostly empty still. I reached the cutoff to Kelso ridge while it was still dark and missed it at first, but eventually made it to the ridge. The route description and pictures really help with picking the right lines on the ridge. No snow the entire way up and its an easy up and down to the saddle to Grays. Great day on the mountain! 
 
Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 2020-07-26, By: jrhagen20
Info: We exited to Bakerville at 5:30AM towards the Grays + Torreys dirt road. Already folks parked on the path - we could have made up our own parking spot but decided to park 1-mile out from the trailhead. The extra 2-miles was not enjoyable considering a full hike including both summits but early bird gets the worm. The trail was congested - both tourists and Coloradans. The weather called for 85% chance of precipitation starting ~11:30AM to Noon time-frame. Right on cue, sprinkles started at 11:45AM as we were getting back in our vehicle. Breathtaking views from the top of each summit. Highly recommend, just check the weather and be cognizant of clouds moving in! 
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-25, By: ethanspitzley
Info: Route up the south slopes is clear save for a small snow field that can be navigated with little difficulty. Parking lot was full by 5:15 AM. Got caught in an afternoon thunderstorm, so it may be slicker for anyone going 7/26. Great day otherwise! 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-22, By: Gzaharatos82
Info: Had a great day on Kelso Ridge this am. Was my first time doing this route. Had summited Grey's as my first 14er in 2012 but got chased off by weather and didn't get over to Torreys. This was a great way to summited Torreys and get the pair. Once above the white wall, go sharp right. This will keep you on trail. If you find yourself staring at a class 4 climb you went the wrong way. Knife edge was fun. Longs was the most exposure I've ever encountered so I was really excited about seeing what this route had to offer. It's all doable, just need to be careful and take your time. Heading down the saddle from Torreys was surprisingly loose. Went up Grey's, then back down the saddle to where a trail across a little bit of snow gets you back to the main Grey's trail. Parking lot full at 6am. Was the second to park on the road. Lots of people, many tourists who started late and were unprepared, but what can you do ... Everyone was well behaved, no music, no shouting, etc. Was as good as you could hope for with that many people on the trails. #21 in the books ... Ready for the tougher stuff now! 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-19, By: Cruiser
Info: Perfect conditions this morning for a quick trip up kelso ridge. The trail is in excellent shape, car to car. Unlike earlier in the season when I was up there, the snow above the knife edge is gone. The only unavoidable snow was on the descent off the standard route just below the saddle with grays. It was a brief section and had a decent trail through it. I always feel a little uneasy walking on a snow slope with no traction or axe but even if I had brought microspikes I seriously doubt that I'd have put them on. Plenty of traffic on the main trail and a decent number of folks opting for kelso. But the trail up there is really not difficult to follow since pretty much all roads lead home. Big thanks to cfi volunteers who were hard at work today on the trail! 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-08, By: rkohler
Info: Climbed Kelso Ridge this morning. Departed 5am, arrived on the summit ~7am. Perfect the entire way except for one sketchy crossing just below the knife edge. There was still a slope carrying ice, but luckily someone kicked steps across it when it was soft (so the steps were now frozen). Recommended to carry an ice ax and/or traction if you want to feel extra safe crossing that. I was still able to hold onto some of the rock popping out of the ice for extra security, but a slip on that section would mean a significant fall. The remainder of the route - rock was good. Steep slopes were filled with lots of loose rock as expected, so I opted to climb on solid rock anytime to avoid rockfall. Heard a number of rocks falling down the sides in multiple areas. Summit was perfect. Gusty winds, bluebird day. There was a nice chubby marmot on top to greet me! 
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Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-03, By: thurs
Info: Skiing update. Torreys south face doesn't have much life left. Wouldn't bother skiing it especially since the tuning forks are in. Dead dog is "in" but it looks super stressful and it just kind of ends on steep talus. Lines off the saddle have rotten chokes. Easy to bottom out. The skiers left most line looks pretty fat but also has some serious runnels and cornicing. Overall, there are much better lines still in for less work. Still, the skiing was okay. 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-28, By: jmctigue
Info: Emperor was melted out at about 12,800 ft. Above this, the scree was very loose and tricky to ascend. There was snow in the couloir above around 13,500 ft. Descended the Tuning Fork. There was snow from about 13,900 ft. The scree above the couloir was not as loose as in Emperor and a small path could be followed. I descended the left-hand fork (climber's left). Couldn't see any ski tracks whereas the right-hand fork was fairly heavily skied. There was one patch with no snow near the bottom of the left-hand fork before the forks merged. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-29, By: briancarlcain
Info: No snow whatsoever. It goes! We descended Kelso Ridge after taking a standard route up Grays and over to Torreys. Good amount of loose dirt and rock to slip on or knock down. It's LOTS of 3rd class and what I thought was 4th class, so be careful to have sure footing and watch out for those above or below you. A helmet would've been nice but we didn't have them and weren't worried at all. Hiking boots were fine, but I'd have slightly rather had my approach shoes. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-27, By: Agstrohmeier
Info: No snow on the route, with the exception of about 10 steps at the top of dead dog with an existing boot pack, and the trail down grays assuming you head down the standard route. Fun hike. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-26, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Snow free until immediately past the white rock after the knife edge where there is a small snowfield you must cross to get to the final summit push. It was solid and no traction was needed this morning. 
 
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-23, By: coopereitel
Info: I started at the TH at 5:10 then went up to Kelso Ridge. I met up with a group and we did the route. The only snow that you will have to go on is up past the knife edge and was no problem. For the knife edge I would not recommend trying to go around it, but do whatever you want. My technique on the edge was the straddle/hump position and it worked fine. From the top of Torreys it took me 40min to hit Grays. Grays had a bit of snow in spots on the trail. I personally did not try to glissade, but heard people say it was cruddy. I got down around 9:50ish. The road to the trailhead was a bit rough near the house for sale. I saw an Outback do it. There is a pic below. 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: Gandalf69
Info: 2 days after friday weather, fresh snow by white rock still, but route mostly dry otherwise. 
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Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: nmek19
Info: couloir is in good shape in terms of snow but it was very warm started from the car 6am, summited at 9 and was back at the car at 10:20 it was cloudy until about 8 and as soon as the sun popped out rockfall started and the snow got much slushier it was easy to kick steps but sometimes they were not super firm and slipped a little bit. I would start very early if you are planning on doing this route this year. 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-20, By: ablocki
Info: I hiked in Friday night and climbed the ridge Saturday morning. Based on previous reports I was surprised at the amount of snow I saw on Torreys at first glance. Safe to say that the rain in Denver on Friday was snow in the mountains. If the ridge was in summer conditions before it definitely wasn't today. Most of the snow before the knife-edge posed little problem. One or two tight turns around rock columns but nothing major. The knife-edge itself wasn't terrible and I would assume after some sun on Saturday it's better now but the final pitch after the knife-edge was pretty sketchy. Looked like I was the first person up on Saturday since I was punching and kicking foot and handholds all while hoping to avoid any sliding. Would recommend an ice axe for that but not sure how long that advice will hold. 1: Torreys on Friday evening 2: Torreys on Saturday afternoon (gives an idea of how much melted during the day) 3: Knife-edge and beyond around 7:30a Saturday 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: Cruiser
Info: A little accumulation last night left the upper portion of the route a bit slick in places (especially the white rock) but generally it was in summer condition with the exception of one snow field lingering just below the summit. Fortunately that one is low angle and reasonably well tracked so I didn't bother to put my microspikes on. I was on top about 8:30 and the wind was really kicking up. From the knife edge to the saddle with Grays I was nervous about being knocked off my feet by the wind. Dead dog still looked fat to me! Go get it kids! 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: ryandecker
Info: Little snow last night made it a bit more interesting today. Only gusts of wind while I was on the ridge from 6:00-8:00 (3 hours to summit from lot) as soon as I reached summit , the winds were gnarly. First time doing Kelso , even with a little extra snow and ice - no traction required. Route finding was the name of the game today but a really fun climb. 

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