Ice Mountain  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-09-17, By: slawrence2011
Info: There was plenty of snow between the Talus, but we were mostly able to rock hop on dry rocks up to the ridge between Ice and North, excluding one moderate gully between the lake at 12,100 and the ridge. The Ice ridge was very doable on rock on the ridge crest up until the crux gully just below the summit. The refrigerator couloir appears to be completely filled in, so we put on crampons and ice axe to ascend back up to the ridge. However, neither of these really helped, since the snow was so soft. I ended up taking off my crampons, and climbing a sketchy class 4+/class 5- series of half snow covered ledges up to the ridge just below the summit. This got me there, but it was way too sketchy to downclimb. After attempting to downclimb the route described by Roach, which was also half snow covered and sketchy, I elected to downclimb the ridge that almost connects to the initial ridge, since at least it was dry. Very doable until the very bottom, where it was incredibly loose, and I barely managed to find enough holds to get back on route. My partner did not go for the summit, and that was the wiser choice. 
6 1
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-09-12, By: colin j
Info: Turned around near 11.7k. After leaving Lake Ann trail was met with loose snow ranging from ankle to knee deep which made route finding and progress tedious. I would expect most off-trail/low traffic routes below treeline in the central Sawatch to be in similar conditions for a couple of days. 
1
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-09-05, By: dwoodward13
Info: Snow is starting to accumulate on the crux section as it stays shaded. A inch in spots from the storm on Monday? I'd def want spikes if attempting after the incoming storm. 
1
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-08-17, By: RobertKay
Info: To the person who decided to steal our water bottles that we stashed at the start of the rocky part of the climb as you exit the forest, screw you!! We descended from the summit using the last of our water and were looking forward to reaching the stored water and water filter. Of course you felt entitled to our gear and took it so we endured a long descent with nothing to drink. I took a risk and had a small sip from a stream and paid the price later that night. You've now removed any lingering ideas I may have had about the goodness of our fellow climbers. 
7
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-08-09, By: graberz
Info: It was a beautiful day on both peaks. Only A dozen or so others collectively between the peaks. Trail was great to the upper creek crossing then it was segmented through the trees. If there is an easier way up or down the rock glacier we didn't find it, but we didn't find the ridge up to ice mt to be as difficult as some of the reports suggested. Overall, beautiful peaks. 
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-07-12, By: dcsheldon
Info: No snow to navigate from saddle to summit of Ice Mtn. Photo #1 North Apostle from Ice Mtn. Photo #2 Ice Mtn from North Apostle. 
3
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-06-29, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: Standard route up from Huron TH. There was some snow but nothing that couldn't be avoided. Photo 10 of route description - followed that on the way up, and it was a tad more than the 2+ rating (it could be because there was still some snow right where you'd ideally like to go, so I ended up going off a little bit) and on the way down went down the gully on the other side of the rock outcropping, which seemed a tad better that day. Followed the route exactly on the Class 3 section, specifically photos 21 and 22. Solid rock with great holds. Went down the same way. I'll write a Trip report this week and post it. 
2
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: Will_E
Info: Did Ice mountain standard route Sunday. Nearly all of the snowfields are avoidable. Traverse to N. Apostle is also dry. Fantastic route, really enjoyed it. Pic with arrows is where I missed a cairn and went up a pretty challenging steep section. You want to go blue, not red. 
7
 
Route: Refrigerator Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: wintersage
Info: Dry to the base of the couloir. Snow was continuous and firm but still crunchy enough to allow crampon/ice axe grip. Ridge from Ice Mountain to N Apostle was completely dry. 
3
 
Route: Refrigerator couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-13, By: thebeave7
Info: Trail into the upper basin is totally snow free. Patchy snow until you reach the back of the basin. Then it's full snow coverage on the west side, but if you're headed for the saddle most of the snow can be avoided. The refrigerator couloir is still fully in, very fis climbing conditions, and the cornice is gone. The choke point would be hard to ski (either side step or straight line), but the rest is still nicely skiable to the tarn. 
5 1
 
Route: The Refrigerator
Posted On: 2020-06-13, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Snow is nearly bullet proof. Cornice has an entrance on it's left. Two rocks the size of footballs flew by within 30 yards of me. Trying to think back on Pacific's North Couloir. I think Ice has a steeper section than Pacific but overall I would say they are close to the same steepness. 
12 2
 
Route: Refrigerator
Posted On: 2020-06-11, By: angry
Info: Dry until reaching the basin. Snow begins around 11,700. Did not use flotation. Crampons from base of couloir. Conditions were so good that one of my climbing partners took a nap about 3/4 of the way up. Steepest slope angle measurement at 50°. You can glissade the descent. 
6 5
 
Route: Refrigerator
Posted On: 2020-06-07, By: dcruz654
Info: Fridge is still in good condition for climbing, for skiing it's questionable. The pencil couloir to get to the upper basin also won't last much longer, there is a LOT of water running underneath it and the choke is REAL thin. Will post pictures later when I get a chance. Left 4wd th at 3:50 One hour to reach the first significant snow (below the pencil) Summited at 7 Took about a little over an hour getting over to N Apostle (route finding is a little tricky, was my first time) Back at the car at 10:50, 7hrs round trip Stream crossing isn't too hard to find. Snow was firm all morning for me, even at 830 on my way out. Couloir's snow was starting to get icy about half way up. I wasn't getting a ton of purchase, but I felt comfortable with one axe (I took two and never brought the second out). The choke is maybe 7' wide and full of small rocks that have been piling up for awhile in the couloir. Wouldn't make for a fun ski imo Pics: 1 the thin snow bridge in the lower couloir 2 couloir between West Apostle and Ice I think, still fat. 3 base of refrigerator 4 part way up, tons of small rocks in the couloir 5 looking at N Apostle 6 looking back at ice/refrigerator 7 all three peaks 8 where I crossed the stream 
8
 
Route: Refrigerator couloir
Posted On: 2020-05-27, By: PeakSixTD
Info: Summited ice mountain via the fridge yesterday. Very little snow for first couple of miles. After apostate basin turn off the snow is sporadoc but sometimes deep. Its been pretty well tracked, hit it with a good freeze and the going is easy. Route finding to basin was easier than expected. Took the pencil couloir to gain the upper basin, totally solid. This is avoidable by skirting slopes on the other side of the basin. These were icy on my descent, id go with the couloir if you have ice axe and crampons. Fridge was in good shape. Pretty solid the whole way but not so solid that it felt at all sketchy. Small barrage of rocks let loose on my descent, fortunately below my position. Probably would have been avoidable but still not good to see. Warm temps coming so gauge these conditions and make your decisions accordingly. 
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2019-08-09, By: WildWanderer
Info: Summer conditions except for two small snowfields. No traction required unless you're me and slip on ice and land on your tailbone. Traction would have prevented this (happened on the way down, no problems on the way up). Rained this morning, packing down the scree. Creeks are full. For the creek crossing where the trail ends there's a log you can use to cross if you follow the creek after the trail ends towards the basin. It just takes some finding in the dark. 
10
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2019-08-03, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Small snowfields to cross en route to the saddle between North and Ice, but no traction or equipment needed. Ridge is snow free. Water crossings are all easy. Summer conditions on an excellent peak. 
2
 
Route: Refrigerator Couloir
Posted On: 2019-07-28, By: supranihilest
Info: The Refrigerator looks like it's still in. It was in amazing shape when I climbed it a few weeks ago, and it still looks nice and stuffed. It might have some alpine ice at this point but otherwise still looks good! Photo: the Three Apostles from the summit of Huron Peak. The Refrigerator is the big couloir splitting the north face of Ice Mountain, the middle peak. 
1
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2019-07-28, By: BKS
Info: Still quite a bit of snow in big gulley, most of which is optional. Several short crossings are mandatory. Traction is not necessary. All of ridge and crux chimney is in dry summer conditions 
1
 
Route: Refrigerator Couloir
Posted On: 2019-07-13, By: supranihilest
Info: Refrigerator is in great shape! There's a lot of dead fall across the trail below treeline but it's not terrible to skirt around. There's a little bit of avy debris too but most of the snow has melted. Once you get to Apostle Basin the trail ends and the route turns into a hellacious willow bashing bog thrash. Avoid the standing water and streams as best as you can; every stream/creek crossing on the entire route can be done without getting wet. Stay to the left and go up the tree covered slope instead of through the willows, it's mostly dry and you don't have to fight through. Above treeline there's still a significant amount of snow. I only used my snowshoes for one snowfield but if you get there early enough you can boot it on solid snow. Find your own way to the couloir, there are many. The couloir itself was very solid in the morning, to the point where I could only get my crampons' front points in. It stayed this way most of the morning until the sun hit. I also used an axe and tool both in dagger position for security. On the way down the snow softened a lot and I was able to kick better steps and plunge step the bottom third. There's a small cornice at the top but it didn't seem very threatening. The ridge to the summit is extremely exposed and quite loose but dry and overall easy. Bring shoes you feel comfortable scrambling Class 3 and 4 in if you don't like scrambling in boots. There was tons of snow still on the southwest face so if you plan to traverse to West Apostle be extremely careful. North Apostle also has lots of snow and would be best to attack after down climbing the couloir instead of the standard route off Ice. Photo 1: Three Apostles from afar. Photos 2-5: in the couloir. Lots of snow coverage. Photo 6: the crux headwall at the top of the couloir. This was pretty scary in boots. Easily 4th Class with a bad fall onto rocks and/or down the couloir or southwest face. There's a bypass to climber's right but it's crazy exposed to the south and a slip sends you flying down the southwest face. I found it easiest to go up the headwall and down the bypass but your mileage may vary. Photo 7: the rest of the scramble from atop the headwall. 
7 1
 
Route: Ice Northeast Ridge + North Apostle
Posted On: 2018-09-23, By: Shooter
Info: There's a dusting of fresh snow in the crossover before the final crux. Enough that it made me pause on the way down and put on micro spikes. I kept them on for the dirt and scree part of the descent. It's steep! The rest of the mountain including North is dry. Oh yea, the descent from the saddle with North is a pain in the ars!. Beautiful day! 
2

Return to the main Peak Conditions page



© 2020 14ers.com®, 14ers Inc.