Route: From Mount Harvard
Posted On: 2020-06-07, By: supranihilest
Info: This peak looks intimidating and goes at Class 4 staying high on the ridge. The route is Class 2 until under the first point, which is not the summit. It can be scrambled around on the left (Horn Fork Basin side) on some ledges. There's a bunch of Class 3 and some Class 4, including some hairy down climbs. The rock is mostly stable but test your holds regardless. You can scramble up the first point if you want but it's kind of pointless. Once around the first point the route drops to loose Class 2+. The final summit pitch from the saddle is a screefest but not hard. We descended back to the saddle (north, not south like Roach describes) then took a traversy route back towards Harvard on steep mostly grassy slopes. From there we went back to the Harvard Trail and down to North Cottonwood Creek Trailhead. The trail still has a lot of snow and water on it.