Longs Peak  
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NPS Longs Peak Conditions
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2021-01-10, By: jmctigue
Info: I didn't attempt Longs today, but thought I could share some photos of various approaches. Despite the snow yesterday, the trail from the Rangers station is very well packed and no flotation/spikes are necessary. This is true to the Keyhole and also towards the Loft. (I went to Chasm Lake, so not sure how the base of the Loft Couloir is) Attached some photos of Lambs slide. A couple of people skied the lower third. I ascended the Camel route - see my conditions report for Mount Lady Washington. 
9 1
 
Route: Trough from Glacier Gorge
Posted On: 2021-01-10, By: bmcqueen
Info: Great trench all the way to Black Lake. Above Black Lake, a mix of snow and rock to the base of the Trough. The Trough doesn't have as much snow as usual. Variable conditions from post-holing to decent booting to nice spring-like styrofoam. Narrows and Homestretch both have a bit of snow, but very manageable with traction (I choose crampons for Longs, but spikes probably would have gotten it done yesterday). It snowed on us pretty good on the walk out, so the trench will need a little refresher I'm sure. 
9 6
 
Route: NF
Posted On: 2021-01-04, By: jakethesnake_630
Info: Trail is well packed from the TH to Treeline. At the transition there are about 5 bushwhack routes connecting to the actual trail - just a warning as I accidentally followed one (running with my head down) and had to backtrack a bit - not a huge deal but a bit annoying. Above treeline, there are a lot of wind slabs covering the trail, but no flotation is needed all the way to the keyhole/NF approach. I spoke to another climber who had gone over the keyhole but stopped in the trough - he mentioned it was a catchers mitt back there w/ no tracks, but I can't confirm as based on his comments I chose the NF. I turned around at the crux due to incoming weather, while I had to break trail up the approach, it was not anything unmanageable. At the crux I backed off to the MLW ridge, traversed this, summited Mt LW, & descended the east face (with a nice glissade at the end.) Took out my axe for the NF approach, but it wasn't really necessary. Used Sportiva Blizzards & didn't need microspikes, though I brought them. 
11 1
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-12-20, By: bangerth
Info: I can only speak to the part of the route that goes from the trailhead to granite pass -- we turned around about halfway between treeline and the chasm junction, and to granite pass was all I could see. The trail from trailhead to treeline is hardpacked with just the occasional bit of windblown powder. No flotation is needed, spikes were useful but not mandatory. From treeline to granite pass, the ground is covered to about 1/3 by snow, but the rest is bare. Spikes are likely not useful, but we kept them on nonetheless. We only made it about 3/4 mile from treeline, but the rest of the way to granite pass looked the same. If the weather is like today, I would strongly suggest to take a 100 lb weight vest with you, though: It might actually prevent you from being blown over when above treeline. Separately: Mount Lady Washington's east face is also mostly bare. There is definitely no avalanche danger, and if MLW is your target, just head up straight from Chasm Junction. 
1
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-12-09, By: VeraUndertow
Info: Started at 4:45 AM and was up at granite pass by sunrise. The trail is solid boot pack (slippery in the AM) the whole way, except Jim Grove trail which was still mostly dry or shallow snow right until you are about to link back up with the main trail (I went this way both times since it's a little shorter) above granite pass the boulder field is basically dry as well. Once thru the keyhole and onto the ledges there were a few snow traverses and I was glad I had my ice axe and micro spikes. I didn't feel the need to use my crampons as the snow was decently grippy with spikes and my axe felt secure as well. Up the trough was mixed snow and rocks and I mostly tried to stick to solid rocks or the snow to avoid the loose rocks. The narrows had a few icey/slick snow patches from the boot pack and again spikes and axe helped me feel secure. There was one avoidable snow patch on the homestretch about 3/4 the way up, with a pretty solid booter in it. I avoided on the way up but went down mostly on the bootpack. Honestly conditions were great and I only saw two people on the summit for about 1 minute but otherwise had the summit to myself for the 10 minutes I was up there. The two guys came up the cables route wearing trail runners with no ice axes so it is definitelyy doable in trail runners right now although they said their feet were cold. All in all great day on Longs with as perfect a weather as you could ask for in December. 
15 3
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-11-25, By: Micaiah
Info: Took all the shortcuts on the way up. All traveled well, aside from the Lightning Bridge shortcut. That was a slog, not recommended. Had to jump the creek. The trough involved some suffering. Deep snow, some pockets were chest deep going uphill. Lots of snow on the ledges, narrows and home stretch. Ice forming from sun melt today. Wind was intense, building thru the afternoon. Made coming down more exciting than typical. Got rolled a few times in the Boulder Field. Crawled thu the Keyhole. I've not felt wind like that before, ever. 
6
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-10-11, By: AlanjBarry107
Info: Started on the trail at 2:20am. Light winds through the forest. 1:45 mins to Chasm View. Arrived at the Boulderfield around 5am. Once at the Keyhole, light was just starting to appear on the horizon. No snow/ice encountered until a few steps at the Trough, easily avoided though. Rest of the route was straight forward and clear. No wetness. Summit by 8:00. Hiked down, back to the car at 1:45. Weather was cool in the morning, warm in the late morning/early afternoon. Minimal smoke. Visibility was great in the morning and worsened later on. 
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-10-10, By: salmanalsaif
Info: Following most of the recent reports: dry trail to the summit save for a few snow spots in the trough (easily avoidable). Smells of smoke at certain places especially early on. Keyhole was surprisingly not as windy as usual. Keep in mind this can all change if it snows tomorrow (Sunday 10/11). 
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-10-09, By: NathanRL
Info: There are little bits of snow in the trough, but barely worth thinking about. The smoke from the fires definitely felt worst from about 10k-12k ft; I'd guess the AQI was 80. Hopefully Sunday's storm helps put out the fires. At 8 AM, we got to the Keyhole, and OpenSummit said the winds were 25 mph with gusts of 36 mph, and the forecast was for it to stay that way. Standing in the Keyhole, the winds were blistering, and we debated alongside 4 other groups whether to turn back. We said it'd be scary to be on the Narrows in winds like this. I believe they all turned back. We continued on, and, after we had about 50 feet of distance between us and the Keyhole, the winds were gone, and they were no problem the rest of the way. Anyway, don't judge the wind based off of the Keyhole! 
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-10-01, By: jemthebrewer
Info: Excellent conditions today. A tiny bit of snow in the Trough that could easily be avoided. Winds were not much of an issue today, very few people attempting the summit (maybe 6- today on a picture perfect day. We were first on the summit today and no one else was up there, we passed a couple of parties heading up while we were heading down. Great day in the mountains! 
4
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-10-01, By: vanvtr
Info: Weather condition was perfect on 9/30. Started TH at 7a.m. and arrived at the summit right before noon. I didn't know I was half way up the Trough until I asked one of the hikers (from San Antonio, Texas) coming down. Some small snow/ice batches along the Trough but condition hasn't changed from what others have reported and I didn't need to use any micros for it. Climbing up/down the 3rd class homestretch was fun and there are plenty of good hand/feet placements for anyone to choose from. 
 
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-09-27, By: dcruz654
Info: One patch of snow nearing the top part of the loft after the slabs and after you traverse a bit to climbers left. Definitely helpful to have axe, micros, or both. I would not have been comfortable crossing the 25' section without out them, it's fairly exposed and a weird sloping angle. Only snow that you have to deal with on the entire route, downclimb to the back of longs from the loft is dry. Meeker from top of loft also dry. Negligible snow on keyhole route except for maybe right at the one awkward move at the top of the trough, but it is avoidable. 
1
 
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-09-26, By: ccawdrey
Info: Took the Loft route up and Keyhole down. A mountain goat from our climbing party also nabbed Meeker before catching us in Keplinger's. Loft: most snow of all the routes but mostly avoidable. One difficult to avoid section of off camber ice across a ramp. Traction and ice axe were greatly appreciated here. See photo. Keyhole: mostly dry. No traction needed. Meeker: mostly dry. No traction needed. 
1
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-24, By: Scott Conro
Info: About the same conditions as a week ago, maybe a touch more ice at the top of the trough, but nothing significant or needing special equipment. No need for spikes if moving with care. Rest of the route is bone dry at the moment. 
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-23, By: JasonCrane
Info: Summited Longs via Keyhole route on Monday. Left TH @ 5:30am. Dry until upper section of the Trough with "filler" sections of snow & ice. Maneuverable with diligence & extra care. Carried micros, but never used them. Narrows & Homestretch completely dry. Saw about 5-6 other groups achieving summit intermittently. Very long day. 
5 1
 
Route: Grand Slam
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: galectins
Info: Conditions similar to the 9-14 Loft route report by CO_Wolfe. Ramp exiting Loft Couloir is snow/ice and the snowfield at the ramp exit is still present. I would estimate it to be 20-30 feet across. There are well-established steps across it, but the snow was hard and icy at 7:30am. A fall from the ramp or this snowfield would absolutely cause serious injury or fatality. At minimum, you'll need microspikes and I also had an ice axe and used plunge-axe technique across the snowfield for better security. There was also substantial snow in the keyboard gully. By the time I got there, it was soft. There was patchy snow in the various gullies you traverse to get back to the keyhole route, but it was more nuissance than inhibitive and could usually be avoided. Photos: L to R: view down keyboard gully, view up keyboard gully, snowfield at end of loft couoir exit ramp. 
4 1
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-19, By: Scott Conro
Info: Restating what others have said. Snow and some ice the last 50 feet of the trough, but not a big deal. It can be avoided when needed. No need for traction. Rest of the route was perfect. 
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: ballardwf04
Info: Climbed Longs today with my father. It took us about 11 hours, starting at 2:30AM. The whole route was clear with good weather, except for the top of the Trough, which had minor snow. The way down was tough- I would recommend taking a helicopter from the top. 
1
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-16, By: cotezi
Info: Started at 3:15 AM, summitted at 9 AM, and got back to the car at 2:30 PM. Whole trail from car to keyhole is dry. Ledges, narrows, and homestretch also dry. Trough was the only part with snow/ice. Used spikes for the way down on this part. Views were a little smokey but didn't affect breathing. Winds today were nonexistent! 
5
 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-15, By: Eagle Eye
Info: I went up Longs Peak yesterday on the Keyhole Route. Starting near the entrance to the Trough there is snow. In the Trough snow can either be avoided by staying on rocks, or traveled through. I put on micro spikes so I mostly stayed in the snow. Probably a little bit of thawing of the recent snow has put a small amount of ice in places. I went up the left side of the crux, at the top of the Trough because the bottom of the right side was iced up, this was early morning. Beyond the Trough, the Narrows didn't have any snow but did have minor frozen over puddles and pools of water. Upper Narrows area and the Homestretch were dry dry dry. There weren't very many people on the mountain and I had the summit to myself, about 9:15 am. A flight for life helicopter spent quite a while in Glacier Gorge early in the morning. 
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