Longs Peak  
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NPS Longs Peak Conditions
Condition Updates  
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-09-27, By: dcruz654
Info: One patch of snow nearing the top part of the loft after the slabs and after you traverse a bit to climbers left. Definitely helpful to have axe, micros, or both. I would not have been comfortable crossing the 25' section without out them, it's fairly exposed and a weird sloping angle. Only snow that you have to deal with on the entire route, downclimb to the back of longs from the loft is dry. Meeker from top of loft also dry. Negligible snow on keyhole route except for maybe right at the one awkward move at the top of the trough, but it is avoidable. 
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Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-09-26, By: ccawdrey
Info: Took the Loft route up and Keyhole down. A mountain goat from our climbing party also nabbed Meeker before catching us in Keplinger's. Loft: most snow of all the routes but mostly avoidable. One difficult to avoid section of off camber ice across a ramp. Traction and ice axe were greatly appreciated here. See photo. Keyhole: mostly dry. No traction needed. Meeker: mostly dry. No traction needed. 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-24, By: Scott Conro
Info: About the same conditions as a week ago, maybe a touch more ice at the top of the trough, but nothing significant or needing special equipment. No need for spikes if moving with care. Rest of the route is bone dry at the moment. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-23, By: JasonCrane
Info: Summited Longs via Keyhole route on Monday. Left TH @ 5:30am. Dry until upper section of the Trough with "filler" sections of snow & ice. Maneuverable with diligence & extra care. Carried micros, but never used them. Narrows & Homestretch completely dry. Saw about 5-6 other groups achieving summit intermittently. Very long day. 
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Route: Grand Slam
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: galectins
Info: Conditions similar to the 9-14 Loft route report by CO_Wolfe. Ramp exiting Loft Couloir is snow/ice and the snowfield at the ramp exit is still present. I would estimate it to be 20-30 feet across. There are well-established steps across it, but the snow was hard and icy at 7:30am. A fall from the ramp or this snowfield would absolutely cause serious injury or fatality. At minimum, you'll need microspikes and I also had an ice axe and used plunge-axe technique across the snowfield for better security. There was also substantial snow in the keyboard gully. By the time I got there, it was soft. There was patchy snow in the various gullies you traverse to get back to the keyhole route, but it was more nuissance than inhibitive and could usually be avoided. Photos: L to R: view down keyboard gully, view up keyboard gully, snowfield at end of loft couoir exit ramp. 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-19, By: Scott Conro
Info: Restating what others have said. Snow and some ice the last 50 feet of the trough, but not a big deal. It can be avoided when needed. No need for traction. Rest of the route was perfect. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: ballardwf04
Info: Climbed Longs today with my father. It took us about 11 hours, starting at 2:30AM. The whole route was clear with good weather, except for the top of the Trough, which had minor snow. The way down was tough- I would recommend taking a helicopter from the top. 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-16, By: cotezi
Info: Started at 3:15 AM, summitted at 9 AM, and got back to the car at 2:30 PM. Whole trail from car to keyhole is dry. Ledges, narrows, and homestretch also dry. Trough was the only part with snow/ice. Used spikes for the way down on this part. Views were a little smokey but didn't affect breathing. Winds today were nonexistent! 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-15, By: Eagle Eye
Info: I went up Longs Peak yesterday on the Keyhole Route. Starting near the entrance to the Trough there is snow. In the Trough snow can either be avoided by staying on rocks, or traveled through. I put on micro spikes so I mostly stayed in the snow. Probably a little bit of thawing of the recent snow has put a small amount of ice in places. I went up the left side of the crux, at the top of the Trough because the bottom of the right side was iced up, this was early morning. Beyond the Trough, the Narrows didn't have any snow but did have minor frozen over puddles and pools of water. Upper Narrows area and the Homestretch were dry dry dry. There weren't very many people on the mountain and I had the summit to myself, about 9:15 am. A flight for life helicopter spent quite a while in Glacier Gorge early in the morning. 
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Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-09-14, By: CO_Wolfe
Info: No snow on the trail present up to Chasm Lake (or Granite Pass). In the Loft couloir, snow patches have filled in between rocks, so you can avoid it entirely just by staying on top of the rocks. However, many of these are loose and the snow makes it hard to tell which ones are stable. At the top of the couloir, the narrow exit ramp is mostly covered and we had to posthole in the snow while using handholds on the rock above. A large drift covers the end of the ramp before you would reach less exposed terrain. You can cross this directly with an ice axe and crampons (as evidenced by tracks ahead of us) or on a very exposed icy ledge below. We decided that both of these options were too dangerous given that we did not have ropes or ice axes and turned back. In addition, the snow was melting quickly, so we were not confident in the stability of the drift. Melting snow also caused some rockfall high in the couloir. I'd give this more time to melt out or return with proper gear before attempting again. For what it's worth, we heard the keyhole route was icy as well. Photo 1 is the snowy ramp we crossed. Photo 2 is the drift at the top of the ramp. You can see someone had crossed it the day before. It's steeper than it looks and there was significant exposure behind me as I took the picture. 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-13, By: jeffmpls
Info: The trial to the Keyhole at times was some filled, 4-6” deep, but by 11:00 AM 80% of this had melted out. We used micro spikes pasted the Keyhole, which were an absolute must, but after a 1/4 mile we turned back due to conditions that were just too dicey. The ledges pasted the Keyhole held some snow, but the greater concern was the ice on the rock that very unnerving. That being said, I do think it may have melted later, but it wasn't going to get sun for another 2-3 hours when we went through at about 8:30 AM. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-05, By: sky_high
Info: Beautiful bluebird day, not a cloud when we got back to the lot at 2pm. Snow is in the forecast next week so watch that closely. Trail is in great shape up to the boulder field. After that the cairns are haphazard to the keyhole and don't offer much over just picking a random line. Blazes are easy to follow on the backside all the way to the summit. Water was flowing at 1 mile, 2 miles, and within the boulder field. The snow is still hanging around so I would guess the water up top will be available until winter. The gully is very loose so mind the rocks. I stuck to the right and the rock was grippy and stable. Past the keyhole there are several sections of rock that have been polished by foot traffic, be aware of the slip hazard. Saw a flight-for-life helicopter spend about a half hour circling the keyhole. We never found out why, but it was a good reminder of the hazards this peak poses on any given day. As the route description notes, it is miles and miles from the treeline to the summit, so if you see weather developing get out of there or seek shelter. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-06, By: lvlivingston
Info: Wow... wow... wow!! This peak has a reputation, so I have to admit, I've been nervous to try it. I met up with three girls from the Colorado 14er Ladies Facebook group at the trailhead at 2:30am. We hiked under the stars up the keyhole route which was a very nice, almost impossible to get lost trail. Thank you trailcrew! Once you hit the Boulder Field, you can skip across the rocks directly up to the keyhole. We saw sunrise with a crew of hooligans. What a fun day... shortly after the sun rose and we'd had a quick snack, we started the fun part! I've heard it can be windy up there, so I can see why this could be a dangerous climb. We got lucky and conditions were perfect. Bluebird day with almost no wind, so the exposed easy class 3 climbing was a breeze. There are a few polished spots, but just remember to keep three points of contact and to breathe. The view was amazing, and one of the largest mesa style summits I've ever stood on... even on a crowded day, you'd probably be able to get a secluded area to yourself. This one is famous for a reason... know your limits to exposure, and have fun! 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-05, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Trail is very dry, perfect summer conditions. Creeks were flowing through trail portions in the forest. Small creek flowing at the base of the boulder field as well. Wilderness bathrooms were open and clean. All sections of the Keyhole Route were dry and clear of any snow/ice. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-09-04, By: Caradhras
Info: Keyhole route was open and clear of snow and ice. There is water still flowing in the boulder field for filtering (some guy was drinking directly out of the stream, I would recommend filtering though). Seemed to be light on traffic, although there were still plenty of folks enjoying the beautiful weather. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-08-31, By: Dignus
Info: Incredibly windy day. It actually provided some protection from the exposure on the Narrows but made good balance more imperative and the descent more frustrating. Homestretch had some patches of ice, so there may only be a few weeks left of easy class 3 scrambling. https://youtu.be/HqpUyxH69b0 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-08-31, By: Pnick
Info: The trail is totally clear of snow and ice up to the Keyhole. At the Keyhole it was extremely windy, but it was more protected as soon as you got on the Ledges. There was a little bit of ice in the Trough, but it was easily avoided. It was also very windy at the transition from the Narrows to the Homestretch. The Homestretch had a bit of ice as well, but with careful footing it was easily avoided. There was a dusting of snow at the summit. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-08-24, By: hanzyfranzy
Info: As there are no other reliable "super packed weekend" reports yet this summer, I thought I'd give my thoughts on the route. Above average fitness climber with a fit lad, albeit hungover lad as my partner. Started Saturday morning from the trailhead at 2 AM sharp, no spots in the parking lot left, we had to park a modest 50 feet down the road, not bad. 11 hours round trip with a chill 1 hour on the summit with disappointing hazy smoke filled views from the fires this summer. If you do this on a Saturday or Sunday on an August weekend, get here before 3 AM. If you are super fit, 4 AM is fine but you are going to park far down the road. If you are not super fit, get here before 1 AM. Even then you may not find a parking spot but you will hopefully avoid the thunderstorms. OK, now the experience. If you are in good shape, you will have no "problems" with this hike. Yeah, it's a long one still that will imbue pain upon most hikers, but no special skill is required, only resilience, patience, and concentration. This was our first Class 3 but our 8th 14er this summer. HOWEVER... I do recommend a helmet and 3-4L of water, depending on your size, if you have a filter you can save 5 pounds by collecting in the boulder field on the way up and down. On the weekend, many hikers are above you. Rocks will fall above you from careless steps. Do not be the one hiker that dies this decade because they did not wear a helmet, just bring a bike helmet if you must! During the morning, you will feel anxious. You will see many headlights below you, and many above. Your natural instinct might feel like it is a race to the keyhole in the dark hours of the night. It is not. Scale is impossible to comprehend at night and these lights are further than they seem. Ignore the lights and enjoy the night, the beautiful cloudless starry sky and often silent night is something you should breathe in and erase your anxiety. Take the early hours to heart as the gradual slope up at early hours is a joy in itself. Now, even with the anthill of people the route is still a blast and me and my partner only had to wait for a total of 10 minutes on the way down at the narrows section for people to pass up. That was it. So don't be daunted of the crowds on the weekend, but DO start before 2 AM. And yes, I did this climb without an ounce of sleep so you can do it that way as well, just make sure you are damn well prepared with snacks and maybe some caffeine on the way up. Don't worry, the adrenaline will fill in the tiredness on the way down. Highly recommend a driver to take you back at the end, or a nap before you drive home, no sleep is fine but don't kill yourself on the drive home. Can't stress this enough, you did some work so take it easy at the trailhead, take a nap. 
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Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-08-14, By: jrhagen20
Info: Started late at 4:30AM given the forecast for clear skies and no precipitation. Weather obeyed and we made the summit by 11:00AM. Finished the hike at 4:00PM. Trail was quite busy throughout our trek up. Many folks turned around at the Keyhole siting wind. Once you make it over the keyhole it dies down on the backside and it's a great trail of rock climbing - nothing too intense. Great achievement and the most beautiful sunrise you will see. Water: bring AT LEAST 4 liters for large male. Food: lots; you'll burn ~3,000 calories. Parking: Full by 4AM but parking on the street to add distance to the hike. Sunscreen. ALWAYS BE CHECKING WEATHER! 
Route: Kieners/Lambs Slide
Posted On: 2020-07-27, By: stevenv1990
Info: Lamb's slide in good condition- all ice easily avoidable except for 1-2 ft at the perimeter when exiting onto broadway. Snow is soft but not deep- though probably not required, we appreciated having mtn boots, crampons and 2 axes. They made the ascent of lamb's slide feel very secure. We had planned to rope up but did not feel the need once on route. Summer conditions on kieners- all snow can be avoided and route almost entirely dry. Arrived at trailhead at 1:35am and plenty of parking remained. We were the only people on the summit when we topped out at 11:30, but that was most likely due to light rain and clouds that had moved in. 
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