Longs Peak  
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NPS Longs Peak Conditions
Condition Updates  
Route: Cables
Posted On: 2020-07-22, By: Eli Watson
Info: Hadn't seen a Cables report yet since Justin's in March, so I'll limit my report to that. Summer conditions, all snow is avoidable getting up to the North Face from the Boulderfield. There is some water run-off, but it does not interfere with the crux crack nor any of the spicier scrambling. Splits: TH 6:00 AM Goblin Forest 6:23 AM Chasm Junction 7:06 AM Boulderfield 7:49 AM Summit 9:00 AM Keyhole 9:45 AM Boulderfield 10:04 AM Chasm Junction 10:27 AM Goblin Forest 10:55 AM TH 11:09 AM 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-07-21, By: ellenmseb
Info: Report on water sources: There is plenty of water in alpine brook, I would guess alpine brook will flow all season. there are some dirty puddles at boulder field, and snow left of the keyhole, but would NOT count on them going forward. My recommendation: fill the minimum water at alpine brook to last the 10 miles until you return to it. Then ration based on whether you see water at boulder field on the way up. Parking (Monday): 90% empty at 1:40am. 100% full at 4am. 70% empty at 6pm. 
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-07-19, By: jmctigue
Info: Arrived at the trailhead at 2am and the parking lot was full. Parked a couple of hundred metres down the road. Route up the the Loft was straightforward - there are several paths that can be followed up the couloir before reaching the scrambling section. There was a little snow at the base of the couloir but don't be deterred by this as it's easy to avoid and there is none higher up on the route. The scramble was short, fun, and easy. Once at the Loft it's worth nipping over to Meeker which has a great summit. Route finding from the Loft to Longs is a bit more tricky. There are cairns scattered around. I dropped a little lower than I was expecting to enter the gully. From within the gully the route becomes a bit more obvious. The Homestretch is the most hazardous section: there were a lot of people up there. Many people looked unsteady on the terrain. The number of people plus the loose rocks makes a helmet mandatory. On the Keyhole route you will be in close proximity to many people who are breathing heavily. Most people were not wearing masks. You might as well be fighting over toilet paper in King Soopers. Seriously consider your own risk to Covid-19 as well as the people you frequently interact with. If you decide to climb, then I recommend wearing a mask to protect others. Although this can be a little uncomfortable, climbing 14ers is also frequently uncomfortable, so it shouldn't be a big deal. If you wear a helmet and a mask then you're guaranteed to look as badass as Nims Purja. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-07-10, By: Penhawk
Info: Summer conditions, no snow or ice on the route. Has some water here and there from ice melt elsewhere, but not really on trail. Great conditions 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-07-06, By: jayclare
Info: We started at 1:30am and were the first party to summit around 6:30am. Trail is in excellent condition from the TH to the Boulder Field. Slow going in the dark from the Boulder Field to the Keyhole. Sunrise at the Keyhole made the Ledges section easier. Very little snow and ice in the Trough - no traction needed. The Ledges and Homestretch were clean as well. Beautiful summit conditions with no wind and mostly sunny skies. Got back down to the TH at 11:30am to the start of some thunder and light rain. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-07-03, By: Troyister
Info: Got to trail head just after 3:00 AM and lot was almost full. Talked with RMNP ranger on phone and said if you get to the trail head before 6:00 AM you do not need a time entry pass, but still need a National Park pass or pay the National Park day fee all online at recreation.gov. Trail was snow free the whole way. Lots and lots of people on the trail, some unprepared. Traffic on the Homestretch section was the busiest, but everyone worked well with each other to get around. Bathrooms at trail head and Boulder field were open, did not check the bath room at the Chasm Lake junction. If you are a first timer to Longs Peak some of the bulleyes that help you stay on the route after the Keyhole are starting to fade. Pictures 1: Sunrise from Granite Pass 2: Herd of elk just above Granite Pass 3: Long Peak from just before the Boulder field. 4: Half way up the Boulder field looking at the Keyhole. 5: Ledges 6:Top of Trough looking down. 7: Narrows 
7 4
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: austinpavlas
Info: Dry to the Keyhole. Recent storm on 6/18 left fresh snow from the Narrows till the summit. Traction was nice, but saw many people summit without it. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: austinpavlas
Info: Dry to the Keyhole. Recent storm on 6/18 left fresh snow from the Narrows till the summit. Traction was nice, but saw many people summit without it. 
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: Micaiah
Info: Snow near Loft ramp can be bypassed going climbers left class 3. No snow along Clark's Arrow section until you leave Keplingers to join the home stretch. This snow can be easily avoided by staying slightly below it on class 3 slab- watch your step and avoid the ice. High consequence fall here. Homestretch had plenty of bare rock options. Cables route has snow fields that can't be bypassed above and below. Point of interest: none of the backcountry latrines have been unlocked yet 
2 1
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: robonthebrink
Info: Bluebird day, made it to the peak. Couple snow drifts and a bit of verglas after the keyhole on the way to the peak, used microspikes on a couple short sections and made it only with poles (although ice axe would have been helpful in a couple sections). But I'm guessing that all snow and ice on the route will be melted by tomorrow (assuming no new precip), was pretty warm up there today (guessing close to 45) with direct sun. Lot of water seen on the way down. 
Route: Notch couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-09, By: Micaiah
Info: Neve snow crossing above Peacock Pool. Chasm Lake crossing very questionable. Lambs Slide, Broadway, and the Notch couloir were mostly firm neve, with small pockets of wind slab and alpine ice. Rock finish to summit was verglas on rock, wet lichen, and snow filled cracks. Snow slopes above the Cables route raps were wind loaded and had me spooked. Approach was mostly bare by this evening 
2 4
Route: Trough
Posted On: 2020-05-31, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Andrews Glacier and then Otis Peak today. Got a good look at the back of the Keyhole Route. Still continuous snow all the way in the Trough. Ledges look like a mix of dry and snow. From what I could see in the binoculars the trail from Granite Pass to the start of the Boulderfield is dry. I couldn't see any ski tracks or people in the Trough through the binoculars, but I'm sure someone has been up there since the park reopened. 
1 2
Route: up Cables down Keyhole
Posted On: 2021-04-11, By: amitchell
Info: Snow conditions, while likely to change this week, were very good. The snow was well-packed throughout and not very deep on the cables and trough. The biggest snow related issue was that it all froze to ice on the part of trail that leads to the boulder field, and we were slipping all over the place (yet we didn't want to put the crampons back on since there were rocky portions as well). I'd recommend microspikes even if you have crampons. Just want to note for anyone planning to climb cables in Winter: I thought this route would be rather safe because it utilizes the old bolts that can be used for rope anchors. However, there are only 4 bolts spaced not too far apart. The last 600 feet is class 4 terrain where a slip will result in falling into a rock, or off the edge of the diamond. If you are naive as I was, and want to perform your first roped mountain ascent, don't make it this route in the Winter. 
Route: The Trough
Posted On: 2020-03-17, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Microspikes from Glacier Gorge Trailhead to Mills & Jewel Lakes. Snowshoes from Jewel Lake to Black Lake. Snowshoes from Black Lake to bottom of the Trough couloir. Crampons in the Trough. I adjusted between crampons on and off from top of Trough to summit. It's just me but I had a hard time finding the bottom of the couloir and especially the route to get above the falls. IMO I think Roach's bottom of couloir entry point is best. 40.2578° -105.6289° 
10 2
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-03-16, By: CaptCO
Info: Snow packed to treeline, mix of rock and snow to the keyhole turnoff. Mix of boulder hopping/trenching to the keyhole. Donned crampons at the keyhole and trenched to summit with mixed conditions. Trough is in and made for some fun kick stepping/axe use. Homestretch had a couple good slots of snow which made things easier. Great day on Longs get out there while it's good 
7 4
Route: Cables
Posted On: 2020-03-08, By: justiner
Info: Relatively dry! Snow starts at in earnest just below the shallow bench below the first technical pitch on Cables, which is itself relatively dry with one streak of water ice flowing down and just a bit of snow. Above, snow can be found in the usual places, but none of it is all very deep. Quality varies, though, so be careful not to sink into a powdery stash, when you were hoping for something more solid. Snow stops a few hundred feet before the summit. 
Route: Trough
Posted On: 2020-03-07, By: astrobassman
Info: Great conditions on Longs. Good skinning / skiing thru Glacier Gorge. The Trough couloir is in nice, although still bare at the top. Normal snow drifts on the Narrows where having crampons / axe was nice. The homestretch is in pretty easy conditions as well. I got up pretty early before 10am, the winds weren't too bad at that time. 
Route: via Lambs Slide
Posted On: 2020-03-07, By: JephgonnaSteph
Info: Attempted Longs via Lambs Slide yesterday. Below treeline was well packed. Above treeline was wind blown and parts of the trail was completely dry. The trench to chasm lake disappeared half way so it was a bit confusing to reach the lake. First half of lambs slide was a mix of hard and soft snow while the second half was generally softer. Kick stepping worked out well. The climb from the top of lambs slide to loft was a steep traverse on snow followed by scrambling over some class 3 rocks. The snow on the traverse was soft and loose and it could be sketchy at certain point. Turned back at loft due to wind. 
Route: Cables Route
Posted On: 2020-03-02, By: Micaiah
Info: Shortcuts and standard trail were boot packed. Jims Grove was firm wind slab with minimal postholeing. The cracks on the technical pitch were mostly filled with neve. Fair amount of snow above that to the summit. Some step kicking, some firm wind slab that accepted crampon points adequately. 
Route: Keyhole Route
Posted On: 2020-03-04, By: justiner
Info: Route after the Keyhole: a few snowfields of middling quality on the Ledges, but none too deep. Axe/crampons advised, although I got away with microspikes. Snow in Trough, but not enough coverage for skiing, Narrows similar story to the Ledges. Homestretch has snow of similar, less than ideal quality, climbing the slabs seemed not a good idea. Altogether fairly windblown. 

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