Pacific Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2019-07-28, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Ideal conditions for the full couloir as a snow climb is over this season. It probably ended two weeks ago. Snow is still in excellent condition until the dogleg. There are two massive and very impressive cornices up until the dogleg. Once you cut left into the dogleg you are out of their worry. Most of the dogleg is now rotted snow, ice, and rock. For the ice climbers out there it is now an ice climb. David Cooper says it's one of the best alpine ice routes anywhere in the State. Agreeing with Cooper, if I were an ice climber this would definitely be on my to do list. I can see why Roach says this couloir is the finest snow climb in the Tenmile-Mosquito Range. 
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Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 2019-07-22, By: cdgibbons
Info: Any snow can be avoided before 12,600. This was my first trip to Mohawk Lakes; it's a beautiful area and understandably popular. Snow from 12,600 to 13,400 was soft, reasonably consolidated, with a couple of icy patches and a few exposed rocks. Ridge is dry. 
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Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-13, By: Mattrmooney
Info: Coast to Coast - Pacific West Ridge to Atlantic loop Snow Conditions - About 90-95% dry on the ridge with only minimal rerouting. Base area and bowl are still relatively covered. I would estimate about 200 feet of total snow travel if picking the shortest routes through the rocks. The snow was almost solid ice in the early am which made for easy walking without the postholes. The ridge was fairly straightforward with the route description. There is still tons of snow on the east side of the summit. The traverse over to Atlantic was a simple scramble on rock, although still plenty of snow to crampon across as well if that is your preference. If not wearing crampons, there is a small reroute on the way down Atlantic's ridge. Super loose rock, but once past the snow there are options to either descend into the gulch, cut around some difficult class 2, or ascend into some very very exposed class 3. I choose the latter which made for a cherry on top after Pacific's ridge. The rest of the trek was standard, but be prepared to get wet in the willows.. 
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Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2019-07-13, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Taken from Crystal Peak 
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Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2019-06-21, By: WildWanderer
Info: Small segments of snow on trail beginning at Trailhead. Lots of routefinding required. Snowshoes needed from just before waterfall area. Tons of snow in the basin! Headwall continuous snow coverage as well. Used snowshoes until headwall, crampons and ice axe from there. Ridge to summit looks like solid snow but it's really hollow: lots of postholing. By 7:30am the basin was mush. Leave the microspikes at home. 
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Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2019-06-21, By: WildWanderer
Info: Small segments of snow on trail beginning at Trailhead. Snowshoes needed from just before waterfall area. Tons of snow in the basin! Headwall continuous snow coverage as well. Used snowshoes until headwall, crampons and ice axe from there. Ridge to summit looks like solid snow but it's really hollow: lots of postholing. Leave the microspikes at home. 
 
Route: Y Couloir / West ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-16, By: Trotter
Info: Did Y couloir, temporarily renamed Snowman Couloir 2 as per snowalien request, then summited on west ridge. Down low, some postholing even at 6 am. Snowshoes useful at 11 am. The 4x4 road is a slushy mess by 11 am. Creeks are under the snow, be careful crossing snow bridges without realizing it. Y couloir in great condition. Note the sun doesn't hit it till about 9 am, so its hard icy snow earlier then that. West ridge from that point up was in good condition, didn't need crampons. Lots of verglas made it slippery until the sun warmed it up. 
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Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-14, By: Ptglhs
Info: Road is still holding snow from gate. Overcast midday made it tolerable, but there was still a lot of slush and water. Getting over the creeks later in the day, especially if it was sunny, would be dicey. The snow was firm on the ascent up the drainage (started @615). The summit pyramid snow was a different story all together! It was sugar stuff that was deep, unless it was close to rocks, and not firm enough to hold crampons but thick enough to really slow us down. With the exception of the initial rock outcropping around 12.8k, which we bypassed to the climbers right, stick to the ridge crest! (As the route recommends) the snow was firmer and the rock less loose. I'd honestly advise going up from the east, or giving this one a month to melt out. 
 
Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 2019-05-16, By: grahampa
Info: Snow from spruce Creek th to peak. Firm in the am, mush in the pm. Skiable in many ways. Be cautious of the overhanging cornices in the north chute. 
 
Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2019-02-26, By: osprey
Info: There is now a trench from the Boston Mine to the west ridge of Atlantic Peak. It was a battle royal to reach the ridge. Stashed the snowshoes below the ridge and switched to micro spikes. The difficulty decreased and the fun factor increased once on the ridge. Some of the Atlantic ridge was extremely narrow. Continued on to Pacific Peak. Descended from the low point on the AP saddle rather than reascend Atlantic. Saw one other person ascending Atlantic while on my way to Pacific. 
 
Route: North East Slope
Posted On: 2018-09-25, By: lawsonim1
Info: The route we took was from the end of Mohawk Lakes, up the hill/ridge heading south west. Approx 39.42436N 106.11868W. Clear of any snow. Conditions good but tricky route. Class III with occasional class IV. Temptation near the top of the route is to tend to head west a little. Resist this and keep slight left (East) and it is a little easier. There is a cairn at the top of the easier route marking the route down. 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-24, By: wildsidesky
Info: The east ridge and southeast slopes are summer condition as of Sunday. However, I want to add that the east ridge felt like way more solid class 3 than "easy class 3" - especially the down-climb to the last major notch. Photo 3 shows the rock one faces on the down-climb - what a trick! Even on the left-side of the ridge crest, it felt rather problematic. Maybe I was off-route, but this ridge felt more tricky than Lindsey's northwest ridge. I'll add a trip report later - but I figured folks would want conditions ASAP in this season The southeast slopes are a nightmare to descend. Endless scree and talus on a very steep slope. Also - the exposure along the east ridge is pretty serious and not good for the uninitiated. I was glad to have the experience I do. Have fun! 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-17, By: hellmanm
Info: For Pacific/Atlantic: Still summer conditions everywhere, and fall colors are peaking. One thing to note: The GPX file for the descent (pulled from the Atlantic peak route) is way off. Wrong gully, wrong track once in the basin...etc. The GPX file for Pacific is better about the gully, but the basin route is still misleading. I didn't record our route, but PM me if you have questions about this route. 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-08, By: HikerGuy
Info: West Ridge is completely dry as of Saturday 9/8. Saddle between Pacific and Atlantic also dry. 
 
Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2018-07-02, By: BKS
Info: Crux headwall is not melted out yet. 300' of 45 degree snow is unavoidable. Too steep and long to glissade without axe. there is a bypass that only required 50' of snow, but rock around snow is terribly loose. Kicked down lots of rocks. 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2018-05-17, By: B_2
Info: There is a ton of snow on the W ridge and thus we did not attempt it today despite a hard freeze. We traversed to Pacific along ridge from Atlantic and then to Pacific-Crystal saddle to descend. East bowl of Atl/Pac still has plenty of snow and Pacific Tarn is still frozen. Flotation is required in the basins! 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2018-03-31, By: graberz
Info: We completed pacific peak via west ridge and then over to Atlantic peak. From Atlantic summit we followed the ridge and cut down to pacific creek. The west ridge route yielded plenty of class 3 and sometimes 4 scrambling as we got off route due to snow features.. Lots of opportunity for exposure. We did not use crampons because the snow was mostly too soft but we did carry them. Ice axe was needed as we climbed snow fields at times. Snow shoes needed to get to the west ridge. Snow was Supportive in morning and plenty of post holing in afternoon. We stored snow shoes down by the creek and came down the ridge early off Atlantic to pick them up. Atlantic peak ridge has one specific section that we argued how safe it was, but did end up crossing it. It could be avoidable by dropping down and traversing the pacific side of the ridge. Round trip was 7.5 hours. No one else on pacific/one snowboarder maybe on Atlantic. 
 
Route: Area
Posted On: 2017-12-03, By: WillRobnett
Info: Distant photo from across Hoosier Pass. Quandary is the foreground ridge with the east ridge of Pacific sunlit. Crystal is the peak centered with the higher ridge on the right. Storm expected to add a new layer of snow tomorrow. 
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Route: From Atlantic
Posted On: 2017-10-15, By: koeffling
Info: The trail down from Atlantic was snowy but firm or avoidable with some rock hopping. The ridge up to Pacific from the saddle was nearly dry or snow was easily avoidable. 
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Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2017-09-17, By: cardgenius
Info: Had a good dusting of snow in the morning so we waited till noon to climb. Most of the snow melted off of the ridge but there were pockets of snow that was sticking around in the shade. No spikes needed yet. Rock is very loose so take your time and be careful! 
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