Pacific Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2017-08-14, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: One snowfield to cross on the way up to the ridge from the small parking area. Could probably be avoided though if you went around or depending the route you take from the parking area. See picture for the route we took to get to the ridge. Took about 2.5 hours to cross the ridge itself. We were on top of the ridge a lot and also went left of the ridge if things got dicey. Myself and the two others I was with thought it was solid class 3, not 'easy' class 3. Went down Atlantic NE slopes. Scree spree, especially with the snow field cutting through most of the 'standard route' down. Very steep and loose, take your time, lots of rock fall potential. 
1
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2017-06-26, By: toxqan
Info: A little snow remains on the slopes of the cirque leading to the ridge. I detoured a bit to find a less steep section but that was easily handled with microspikes and would probably be fine without. There was no snow on the ridge itself or the final climb to the top. The scrambling was fantastic and unrelenting. Rock towers kept appearing as though they were hidden by an optical illusion. The descent from the Atlantic - Pacific saddle to McCullough gulch was a different story. Suncupped snow pretty much the entire way until the lake at 11,900ft, much of it unavoidable. There was an area from 13,200ft were the only reasonable descent path required a steep glissade. Thankfully I made it down but regret not bringing an ice axe. 
 
Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 2017-06-18, By: Jorts
Info: Climbed consolation couloir (lookers rightmost Hawaii coolie) above Mohawk Lakes. The water is high and the riparian areas are saturated. There is still a lot of snow in the HI coolies. Climbed the snow at 0900, supportive and moderately sticky. The upper east ridge to Pac was mostly clear of snow. 
5
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2017-06-16, By: Count40
Info: Only pictures from Mayflower Hill. You can see for yourself, but just briefly: Lots of snow from the mine 4WD TH (and not accessible by car yet, btw), then through basin past the willows and up the drainage to the Pacific/Atlantic basin. Pacific West Ridge quite dry, with many snow patches, but without cornices. And you know the story about dancing between early harder snow, later softer snow. and snowshoes and postholing. 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2017-06-08, By: JtheChemE
Info: From ~12,700 to ~13,400 ridge is in mostly summer condition, snow on a few short sections going up. Exit from McCullough was snow until the road, snowshoes used on exit, partner wallowed a bit w/o. Expect snow will be even less supportive down low this week with the lack of overnight freeze. 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2016-10-28, By: SolarAlex
Info: West Ridge is basically dry. A few small spots of snow on the ridge but wasn't much of an issue. The traverse to atlantic was a little snowier, and the descent down the west ridge on atlantic had some snowy spots. We did the route in trail runners and didn't have a problem. As a general conditions report for the 10mile range, its pretty much entirely dry on South/West/East aspects, with some thin snow cover on north aspects and shaded areas. 
 
Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 2016-07-12, By: Double Oh Seven
Info: didnt climb pacific just went fishing at mohawk lakes. But got this picture of east slopes. Still looks to be holding a snow. A few ski tracks as well. 
1
 
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2016-06-29, By: LIV
Info: Looks like it is still in condition for the most of the way. 
2
 
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2016-06-19, By: Wildernessjane
Info: The North Couloir is still in great shape! Aside from the last 15 feet or so, the snow was continuous all the way up the left branch. After the dogleg, the snow was pretty firm around 7:30 am with small patches of ice. It's also starting to get a bit thin. We brought a 30 meter alpine rope and some pro but did not use it. 
4 2
 
Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2016-05-14, By: yingyangsoup89
Info: Climbed today with bomber cream cheese snow. Kick steps very nicely and provides good support. The line is filled all the way to the notch. Used 1 axe with no issues. Didn't use snowshoes once from Spruce Creek Trailhead and back but today was chilly. Get it. 
 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2016-02-07, By: Mickeys Grenade
Info: Solo trip up the North Ridge of Pacific Peak from Mayflower Gulch trailhead. I made some dangerous route finding mistakes. I should have stayed in the bottom of Pacific Creek. Instead, I found myself traversing steep north facing slopes on the south side of Pacific Creek. There were numerous wooomfs throughout the approach to the Pacific/Crystal saddle. The danger was indeed considerable. The correct choice would have been to turn around at treeline and perhaps break a trail over to the bottom of Pacific Creek and then continue up. I decided to accept the risk and "press on". I was very happy to reach lower angle terrain. I left my skis a little ways below the Crystal/Pacific saddle. It was super windy on the North Ridge with lots of blowing snow. I used microspikes on my ski boots, but it was probably not necessary. I was nervous about trying to ski out the way I came in. I saw ski tracks on the northeast side of Mayflower Hill. I decided to ski out the lower angle terrain of Humbug Creek and then skin up to the top of Mayflower Hill. There was a skin track to follow back up the hill. I got some good tree skiing back to the bottom of Mayflower Hill. I have been sick since my San Luis trip with Yikes and Summit Lounger. Last weekend I stayed at home. I was moving very slow today. I left the car at 7:15 AM and got back at 5:30 PM. It's interesting how you can "feel the danger in your gut", but then convince yourself to push on anyways. I'm not proud of my route finding and decision making on this trip. I just wanted to share with others how easy it is to make bad decisions in the backcountry. Just because nothing happened; doesn't mean it was a good idea or "safe". 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2015-08-10, By: emgordon
Info: A little slick ascending through the aspen forest in the early morning. Ridge in great condition, dry. One patch of snow near the Atlantic-Pacific saddle if you are joining the south ridge for the last push to the summit. Headwall of "standard" route for descent is particularly loose, some soft and steep snowfields present, so ice axe recommended for a glissade. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2015-07-18, By: ChrisinAZ
Info: Left the McCullough Gulch road at the switchback. Only a few patches of snow, all avoidable, and essentially none on the E ridge itself--full summer conditions on the route from road to summit. However, unless returning the same way, you will need to descend back into the basin via the steep slopes east of the Atlantic-Pacific saddle. The snow is unavoidable as of right now, though there is a narrow tongue of loose, crappy rock that will eliminate some of the steep glissading. I was able to get down this section safely, but an ice axe is a must right now! Once past this section, there are several snowfields to cross, but none are very long, and none require any gear. One or two are on the trail that leads back down McCullough Gulch, before the lake at 11900'; near the lake, there are several exceedingly muddy areas, so watch your footing! 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-07-15, By: jwagner
Info: The West Ridge is clear of snow. There is a small patch that is very easy to go around on either side.The saddle in between Pacific and Atlantic is also clear. Fun ridge, go get it! 
 
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2015-06-22, By: BagginPeaks
Info: Climbed the class 3 west ridge of Pacific today (6/22). 4wd road up Mayflower Gulch is not passable due to snow drifts, made it less than a mile up. Willow bashing was fun (not), but no snow in the basin until you get up in the drainage by Mayflower Hill. The snowfields were primarily firm, minimal postholing but deep when I did. West ridge on Pacific is almost snow free, two snow fields, one I crossed and was glad to have my axe, the other I dropped down on the right side of the ridge to avoid. Fun climbing on the ridge! 
3
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2015-06-08, By: WillRobnett
Info: McCullough Gulch (851) Road has manageable snow drifts up to 1.1 miles from the Quandary summer TH. Deeper/tracked snow drifts continue further. 
 
Route: Crystal/Pacific saddle
Posted On: 2014-10-26, By: mikemalick
Info: Did Roach's "West Winds Classic" starting from the Mayflower Gulch upper TH. Gained Pacific via Crystal/Pacific saddle. The traverse to get to the saddle under Pacific's northwest face was a pain as snow was hiding good foot placement in the boulders (see pic #1). From saddle to Pacific summit was much better. Snow patches easier to avoid with better foot placement. Dropping into and out of notch near summit was no problem in terms of snow. While on the summit a couple just came up from Pacific's West Ridge route. They made it safely, but said there was some snow/ice higher up. Keep in mind today's weather moving in could change all this quite a bit. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2014-09-08, By: AlexeyD
Info: As of Sunday morning, Sept. 7, the ridge was still dry and snow and ice-free, despite snow showers on and off throughout the day. If continuing along the ridge toward Pacific Peak around the left side of the small lake at 13,400‘, there is still a very short snowdrift remaining along a portion of the ridge above the lake, but it‘s not especially exposed, and it‘s easy to get back onto rock after just a few steps on snow. Rest of the route is dry. Looks like snowfall in the region has been highly localized: the higher Mosquito Range summits (including the DeCaLiBron peaks) were looking quite snowy, while the Tenmile Range was mostly dry, other than just a dusting high in the shaded north-facing gullies of Quandary. All in all, beautiful early fall conditions, with some magnificent tundra colors, and the trees starting to turn as well. 
 
Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2014-07-22, By: carson_h
Info: The headwall is still filled in with snow and traction was marginal with microspikes + poles. We took a path to the right (NE) at the interface between the rocks and the snow. Otherwise the route is summer conditions. 
2
 
Route: Hawaii Couloirs
Posted On: 2013-06-30, By: clemsonmtneer
Info: Pacific Peak‘s Hawaii Couloirs, accessible from Mohawk Lakes, are still in, and the skiing was fantastic on Friday 6/28. I would imagine they won‘t be in for too much longer, though, so if you‘re still looking to get a ski descent or snow climb in, get it soon... probably still good through next weekend, but wouldn‘t wait any longer than that. Also, got a view of Drift Peak, and it is still in for a ski descent, although I didn‘t get a view of the bottom part of the line. Above the couloirs, the ridge hike to the summit was dry, and the route was in good condition. There is still skiable snow above Pacific Tarn as well, although it was pretty sun-cupped so the turns here weren‘t all that great. Will post a full trip report soon. Until then feel free to PM me for pics. 

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