Mt. Wilson  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-10-01, By: MartyTheOneManParty
Info: Climbed the traverse from El Diente -> Mt. Wilson last Sunday, 9/27. The route was dry except for two spots: -the final stretch on the North side of El D (south slopes route photos #19-24, see attached photo) -the steep downclimb after the crux on the traverse (traverse route photo #2 Microspikes were helpful here but not necessary 
 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: zootloopz
Info: The south side of the traverse is basically snow free - patchy snow but mostly avoidable. The north side is clogged with up to ~36" of snow. This is split literally perfectly along the traverse ridge. Went up from kilpacker on the south slope routes - Diente is great up until the last 0.25 miles when you turn onto the north side of the peak - where there is some legitimate snow/ice - but it is doable with microspikes. The traverse is definitely far from perfect - the crux wall from Photo 22 is perfectly fine, but there is patchy snow on the narrows which takes a bit longer to navigate, and there is a second crux to the route with the snow - Photo 26 with the steep downclimb on the north side of the traverse - it is very steep and covered with fresh untouched snow - we went off route to the right at this point on a narrow ledge which connects back to the gully leading up to Mt. Wilson. Be prepared to choose multiple times between going off route a bit to stay on the south side or choosing snow travel. Microspikes and poles required. The descent from Wilson south slopes is also completely snow covered down to 13k. Overall time: 11.5 hours. 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-09-11, By: heathbromley
Info: There is anywhere from 12 - 24” of corn snow from the falls to the summit. It's very weak and for the most part did not support weight, so watch out for the boulders below the surface. Watch your step! Class 3 features were very slippery and hard to find holds. Route finding was made difficult by the snow, but not impossible. 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-09-19, By: Pak Pagosa
Info: The 14er.com route description from the Kilpacker Trailhead is spot on. Once you reach talus, know that the roundtrip on it will be roughly 10 kms, so make sure you're physically up for it. Upon reaching Mt. Wilson's base at the back of Kilpacker Basin, pay close attention to the route description photos, particularly as it relates to your descent. And also be mindful of climbers doing the traverse from El Diente along the connecting ridge. There were a few the day of my climb, but I arrived at the summit well before they did and coordinated my descent with their ascent in order to mitigate the rockfall hazard for me. Absolutely wear a helmet. 
 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-08-16, By: Danger_D
Info: Trail in great condition all the way, except maybe a tiny bit of mud in Upper Navajo basin. A few general updates: 1)Don't start your traverse too soon after the green buttress. Go left(ish) up the gully to the shoulder mentioned in the route description. Hike up even further to the right of the (current) snow patch following cairns. I started my traverse too soon at ended up some loose garbage. The cairned route doens't 100% match up with the 14ers.com gpx. See pic 2) The camping spots in the basin fill up fast on the weekend. You can always find a spot, but if you don't get up there earlier on friday you might have to hunt (or be close to others) 3) The exposure on the 4th glass summit pitch ain't no joke. Its not that hard, but oh boy 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-08-16, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Almost all remaining snow avoidable; one or two steps on a level crossing required unless you're long-legged, an Olympic jumper, or willing to talus-hop a questionably worthwhile distance up and around. Lots of rockslide potential from above your head as well as below your feet on this one, so don't forget to bring and wear your helmet! 
 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-08-09, By: ryans
Info: Most of the snow is avoidable on the southwest slopes route. There are great campsites around 10,600 feet about a half mile or so past the creek crossing. Our campsite coordinates (N 37.823773 W 108.027609) could fit about two to three tents and was about 50 yards from the trail and right near the creek. 
 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-08-10, By: little_castaldo
Info: Having seen reports on the dangers of rockfall, we were moving extremely slow and methodical on our descent of the north slopes, and luckily, made sure no one was above or beneath us. One of our party went to test a hold and a 20x10 foot section of the mountainside gave way at 13,900ft. It roared down for about 2 minutes and at least 2000 ft. The only other party on the north slopes descended a different gully, and we heard them also cause a major rockslide maybe 30 minutes before. ***Please make sure that you don't have anyone above or below you on these routes. It is near impossible not to dislodge rocks or cause slides if there is no snow. 
 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: lifewithcare
Info: Bring traction! Several large snowfields still exist and will likely remain for quite some time. Micro-spikes saved us a TON of time. You could potentially circumnavigate around the snowfields, but it will add significant time to your hike. Snow was solid before 7am and softened up a little after 9am when we were descending- however, it was still too hard to glissade comfortably. Our group tried hiking to the top of one of the first snowfields because it appeared we could cross on the rock at the top, but the depth of the snow along the rock wall prevented us from doing so. The steepness of some of the existing snowfields makes crossing without traction foolish. We were so grateful to have packed our spikes! There is no (Verizon) cell service at the Kilpacker trailhead or the campsites in Kilpacker Basin. We did have service on both summits of Mt Wilson & El Diente. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-19, By: Scott P
Info: Don't bother with an ice axe for this route. We brought them, but the only snow on the north slopes route was a low angled snowbank low down on the route. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-13, By: sailingstar22
Info: Fantastic weather day up the south routes of El Diente, Traverse, Mt. Wilson and back down. Several rockfall incidents on the traverse and North Mt. Wilson route. In looking at the north routes from Wilson peak on 7/12, they are still holding quite a bit of snow (and combined with the loose rock would be hellacious). Very glad we changed our plans to do the south routes. Traverse is essentially snow free with a 10ft crossing that is relatively easy (compared to some of the moves on the rest of the route); we were also glad to have done it from ED to MW, as the opposite would have required a very challenging downclimb after the narrows) Decent of Mt. Wilson was much more pleasant than expected. We brought ice axes, but the glissades were so mild that we didn't even bother to unstrap them from our packs. More of a burden to carry across the traverse than anything else. If you plan to camp on Killpacker, there is an awesome campsite in the second to last set of trees before the waterfall - it is mostly obscured from the trail, so you have to hunt around a bit, but very worth it for the waterfall views/sounds, flat surface, and fire pit (not allowed right now, but had some flat rocks for our meal prep and stove). Just fill up your water at the stream cross to avoid a long descent to the waterfall runoff. 
 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-13, By: emily_m
Info: Did Kilpacker TH -> El Diente -> traverse to Mt Wilson -> down southwest slopes. Everything up El Diente and on the traverse is summer conditions, remnant snow can be avoided or quickly crossed without issue. On the way down Mt. Wilson in the early afternoon, we used ice axes to glissade. The upper part of the route is dry, but you will hit snow when entering the upper basin. There was some sun-cupping in the snow, but the glissade was overall pleasant and way faster than trying to boot ski or walk down the very large snowfields. I thought it was worth having the axe for this purpose as I gained some speed in some longer sections. It didn't seem like this route would be super fun to go up right now, though the snow was very icy in the morning so you could go up with traction. A lot of the snow was unavoidable. 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-11, By: CaptCO
Info: Descended this route from the traverse, a few snowfields but all can be avoided. Kilpacker route was a mad house, take the Navajo lake trail if you like fun climbing and being secluded. One decent camp site at first tree break past lake, one of the better spots for filtering water as well 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-07-07, By: PikaSteve
Info: Three minor snow patches from 12,300' to 12,700' were easily crossed. Continuous snow fields from 13,100' to 13,700' required microspikes and ice axe. Snow was steepest and firmest from 13,600' to 13,700' - I downclimbed rocks to avoid this slope on my descent. Any snow above 13,800' was at the edges of the gullies and did not impact climbing on a mix of dirt, scree and rock. Studying the 14ers.com route photos in advance was critical to navigating up to the notch via the gullies and rib crossover. See attached pictures and captions for the snowy details as of July 6th. About 8 climbers summitted via SW slopes route on a beautiful Monday in Kilpacker Basin. Thanks to Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, the trail was very smooth up to treeline. Flowers are out and mosquitos were light. Pic 1: Kilpacker Creek crossing at 10,400': log at back of photo was dry, stable and had low consequences if stepping into creek Pic 2: CFI Stairway to Heaven Pic 3: CFI Inca Trail Pic 4: El Diente and South Wilson dominate the views for most of the approach Pic 5: At 12,700' looking up at El Diente Pic 6: At 12,700' looking up at South Wilson with Mt Wilson barely visible left of center Pic 7: At 12,700' looking back at small snowfields crossed so far Pic 8: Turning corner at 13,100' to see Mt Wilson Pic 9: Ascended to 13,700' - top of snow left of center. On descent, avoided steepest snow by downclimbing rocks right of center to top of boot ski tracks at about 13,600'. Pic 10: Details of upper route - on way down from notch, rib crossover point is just below upper snowfield Pic 11: Summit view toward El Diente Pic 12: Summit view toward Wilson Peak Pic 13: Descent path from about 13,600' Pic 14: Afternoon view up Kilpacker Basin Pic 15: Morning view up Kilpacker Basin 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-07-03, By: mjohnson1960
Info: Climbed El Diente via South slopes from Kilpacker, some snow patches on the route but all either avoidable or easily negotiable, used microspikes and axe just to feel safe, but not necessary. Traverse to Wilson clear of snow as per previous report, fantastically fun route! Descended Wilson's snowy south slopes early afternoon and got in 3 fun (though bumpy) glissades. Great day, great mountains, great traverse! 
 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-29, By: austinpavlas
Info: Summited via the traverse from El Diente. There is no snow at all on the traverse, but the rock is very loose when you are off the top of the ridge. Descended off route by a bit down towards the RoA saddle. Fantastic glissade opportunities. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-07-02, By: jmcguire1969
Info: I did the traverse from El Diente to Mt. Wilson on 6/26/20. The only other traverse I've done is the Maroon Bells (South to North) 10 years ago so not super experienced with this kind of stuff. My advise for this route is to allow enough time, take your time with route finding and do not panic. It took me 3 hours and 15 minutes to make the traverse and lucked out with a great weather window. There are a few spots; 1) on the Gendarmes and 2) the Narrows where I probed a few different options and didn't really like either one. The couple sketchy/exposed spots had really solid rock and didn't require any significant acrobatics but were mentally tough to commit to. After getting off the Narrows, there are still a couple snow fields to cross where an ice axe will provide additional comfort as you cross them. The snow coverage on the North Slopes of Mount Wilson allowed for a great glissade back down to the upper Navajo Basin saving wear-and-tear on the knees. Enjoy! 
 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-06-26, By: Christensenje
Info: Did the traverse. Came down from Wilson at 11:15. Stayed true to the gully that feeds down into the big snow v at the bottom. Boot pack was nice. Snow still firm enough. Wouldn't recommend without ice axe just in case. Snow coverage is basically the same as the mt Wilson cover photo. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: yeshecanney
Info: Traverse is completely dry, small snow patches remain in some of the gullies halfway through but they are easily crossed (boot pack) or avoided. Snow began to soften by 10am. Rock is mostly solid, check holds before yarding on them if suspect. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: yeshecanney
Info: Traverse is completely dry, small snow patches remain in some of the gullies halfway through but they are easily crossed (boot pack) or avoided. Snow began to soften by 10am. Rock is mostly solid, check holds before yarding on them if suspect. 

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