Mt. Wilson  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: yeshecanney
Info: Traverse is completely dry, small snow patches remain in some of the gullies halfway through but they are easily crossed (boot pack) or avoided. Snow began to soften by 10am. Rock is mostly solid, check holds before yarding on them if suspect. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: yeshecanney
Info: Traverse is completely dry, small snow patches remain in some of the gullies halfway through but they are easily crossed (boot pack) or avoided. Snow began to soften by 10am. Rock is mostly solid, check holds before yarding on them if suspect. 
 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-06-11, By: stickmann
Info: No snow on the approach or below 11,000ft except for a few patches. The GPX of the route was invaluable. Started at 4:00am and on the summit at 8:30am. The snow on the descent was very soft at 9am and I would not recommend. Continuous snow from the base of Gladstone to the top of the couloir. Didn't see much avy activity but quite a few tumbling rocks as it warmed up. Boxcar mostly melted out. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-05-26, By: sstratta
Info: Climbed Mt. Wilson and skied the east face yesterday. Snow is continuous from the top of the south col down to about 11,200'. There was one old ski track coming out of boxcar, but not sure if it was continuous. No snow to deal with on the class 3 scramble to the summit from the south col. 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2020-05-26, By: MichaelWG
Info: See my conditions report for El Diente for general info on the Kilpacker trailhead / approach / basin conditions. In comparison to El Diente, Mt. Wilson was a cake walk. Snow was in great condition all the way up to the band of rock where you start scrambling 100ish feet below the summit. Nothing remarkable to report there, and the rock portion of the route was totally dry. Made for a very easy snow climb and short scramble. I didn't see any recent avy activity in the basin but there was a decent amount of rockfall, mainly on the south side of the basin / north-facing aspects opposite the Wilson-ED ridge. Everything's melting fairly quickly. If you want to do this as a snow climb and save yourself the talus hopping, now would be the time to go! 
 
Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2020-05-25, By: TraversingTrash
Info: Summited Wilson Peak on Friday via the Northwest Ridge (no crampons needed, ice axe necessary for descent of rock of ages) and got a good view of the Wilson/El Diente traverse and North Slopes routes. Photos attached. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-03-09, By: Randy1983
Info: Perfect skinning conditions from the CrossMtn TH through the trees. The track deviates from the 14ers.com gpx a bit through the forest. Was pretty icy in the morning and since I don't have ski crampons yet, I switched to regular crampons around 11,700 and kept them on till the summit. Snow was pretty firm all the way to the couloir saddle but there are tracks that deviate from the route and stay left of where the entrance to the summit couloir is. Those tracks are an ok option, but could get spicy if that area gets some heavier spring snow. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-03-05, By: supranihilest
Info: Incredible conditions on Mount Wilson today. The Cross Mountain Trail is packed and easy to follow. I established a new trench to treeline. From here you are in avy terrain until you're back below treeline. That said, snow conditions were very stable. I mostly floated on top of it, wearing snowshoes until a scree field in the final cirque. I stashed my snowshoes there, booted to the top of the scree, then put on my crampons and kicked straight up the couloir. Only a short section right off the scree field was knee deep pow, the rest was supportive, perfect step kicking snow. The scramble to the summit from the col held awful snow but easy scrambling. On descent the snow was getting wet and sticky but still stable. There's also some elevation re-gain on the exit from Slate Creek back to the trail. Conditions won't get much better for a winter ascent. Go get it! 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-02-21, By: Coloradokid_
Info: Attempted Mt. Wilson via East face from the Cross Mountain TH Parking area is plowed, wore snowshoes from car to 13,000 ft, crampons/ice axe to 14,150 ft (my turn around point) snow seemed to be in stable condition up to around 13,900 ft. I triggered 3 slides from 13,900 to 14,100. I was within 20 feet of the top of the couloir hugging the rock bands on climbers left and couldn't justify climbing up the final and most dangerous avy slope after I had already triggered multiple slides. I tried climbing up the the rock bands to gain the ridge but the class 4/5 terrain was too snow covered. A 16 hour day to be 60 feet short of the summit was a tough pill to swallow, until next time... Photo #1: on the East face around 13,600 Photo #2: in the couloir around 14,100 with small slide I triggered Photo #3: my turn around point with summit in view 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-10-14, By: CaptainSuburbia
Info: The traverse is still snow free. The recent storm appears to have missed this area. Surprisingly, for a weekend, we didnt see anyone else on the traverse. Still lingering snowfields in basin below Wilson as you head back to Kilpacker which I had no trouble navigating without spikes. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-09-13, By: KTMSteve
Info: As others have said the traverse is snow free. There is only one very short 20' snowfield to cross leading up to the El Diente start probably around 12,000 not requiring spikes. Coming off of Mt. Wilson we did put on micro spikes and descended roughly 1,000' of continuous snow. If you don't want to carry the spikes you can stay left or right on the talus and avoid the snow entirely. Lots of rocks and sun cupping would make glissading sporty at this point. Also took a picture of Mt. Wilson from Wilson Pk, so looking up from Navajo Basin....gullies still holding quite a bit of snow. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-09-03, By: Phill the Thrill
Info: Climbed El Diente-Mt. Wilson traverse from Kilpacker basin, descended Mt. Wilson's southwest slopes. Very busy day on the traverse, and traffic backed up a bit on the saddle before the crux of the climb (we waited nearly 30 minutes). The traverse was completely clear of snow/ice. The descent from Mt. Wilson summit to Kilpacker was extremely loose. LOTS of snow still present from bottom of gully at 13,700 ft down to approx 13,000 ft. We put on the spikes and carefully descended through the soft snow, but trekking poles also would have been useful here. 
 
Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 2019-09-01, By: ryefinegan
Info: Climbed El Diente South Slopes --> Traverse --> down Mt Wilson Southwest Slopes. 9.5 hours round trip and I felt like I was moving pretty quickly. Ice ax was great to have on hand as I was able to glacade quite a bit of elevation coming down Mt Wilson. 
 
Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-09-02, By: DeTour
Info: Managed this route from Kilpacker without traction but def wished we had it a couple times. El Diente ascent had several snowfields, fairly easy to bypass. First one low in the basin, maybe around 12,000', required some care on fractured rubble-strewn rock to the left of a steep snowfield. One just above turnoff to ED in Kilpacker is easily bypassed on rock to the right of the snow. Final one on ascent maybe around 13,200' and forced us to do some backtracking to bypass. For all of them, picking back up on the trail above the snow is part of the challenge. Traverse is snow-free. SW slope descent gully from Mt. Wilson has snow that's easily bypassed to descender's right. Lots of snow in Kilpacker (photo attached). We descended rock rubble to reach a point where the slope was low enough to be comfy without spikes - it was softened up by the time we descended. Then a combo of boot-ski, slow mushy glissades and walking snow and some rock down into the basin. There's water running under the snow at one point further down the basin, maybe around 13,000'. The risk of breaking through soft snow into a creek was one I hadn't thought of in advance. It seemed remote but def unfamiliar territory for me. Felt safe with a soft slow glissade on low-slope snow there. 
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Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2019-08-31, By: mkrier
Info: Microspikes + poles helpful in AM, otherwise not needed. Not a great route. Haven't been up north side, but doubt could be worse (loose, scree) than this. 
 
Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 2019-08-24, By: litote312
Info: Several long snowfields remain beginning shortly after the turn off to El Diente in Kilpacker basin until the bowl that ascends towards the couloir below the traverse. Used this route to descend so I can't speak to conditions early in the morning. Coming down, there was a section of steep snow upon entering the basin (pictured). I should have brought an ice axe for that. Afterwards, the slope mellowed and spikes were fine but yeah not carrying an axe was a a mistake in my opinion. Worth noting, we did see a good sized black bear on the way out of Kilpacker basin. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-08-22, By: Scott Conro
Info: Snowfields manageable without equipment, BUT we had poles and spikes and used them both to cross multiple sections of snow. Would not have wanted to slide down a couple spots. Previous report describes the snow below Mt. Wilson perfectly. 
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Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 2019-08-20, By: davisrice4
Info: Climbed el diente and mt Wilson yesterday from the south. No snow to the notch on el Diente, where the standard route is filled in. You can climb steeper class 3 rock on the left to bypass. Traverse is completely dry, minus one section where you can easily traverse to avoid the snow. I underestimated the exposure on the narrows and the difficulty of the down climb, but it is all easy enough. Descent is dry through the gully, but there are large snowfields below. I boot skied it, glissade tracks were abundant. An ice axe is smart but perhaps not necessary. Probably not gonna get much more snow melt. it is freezing solid over night, and at 2pm on my descent it was only soft enough to glissade. no postholing. Great climb, great weather, great views! 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2019-08-16, By: Wentzl
Info: Climbed Mt. Wilson from Rock of Ages on Thursday the 15th. I believe the route showed is the best, snow or no snow. I did the climb without spikes or axe wearing trail running shoes. Traverse to El Diente snow free too. Looked down El D North Slopes, still all snow. My descent was via El D West Ridge. Also snow free. First photo show route from photo taken at low point off Rock of Ages Pass. Second photo looking back at Rock of Ages pass and path taken to Mt. Wilson. That snow field lines up almost perfectly with the ridge on Mt. Wilson that gives easy passage and avoids snow. Also a good trail and many cairns on this route, which I believe is what is intended as "standard" route 
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Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 2019-08-15, By: johntmv
Info: We descended the North Slopes of Mt. Wilson following the traverse from El Diente. Previous report indicates that there is no snow on the route, but this is only if it is avoided. The standard route would go through some steep snow fields, which are still present. We encountered no snow, but had to change our route slightly from the one listed on the 14ers.com route description. Hence, it is "snow free" if you choose a route that avoids snow. Photo shows the North Slopes of both El Diente and Mt. Wilson. If you compare this photo to the route description, snow is clearly present on the standard route still. Descending from the summit, we passed above the first snow-filled gulley we encountered and then followed the clear ridge down. After passing below the skinny gulley with snow, it is easy to avoid snow for the rest of the route. However, route changes must be made in order to avoid it completely. 
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