Pettingell Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: via Citadel
Posted On: 2020-10-11, By: blantow
Info: Pettingell via Citadel on the ridge traverse is in perfect shape. The tat anchor for the rappel is by no means the sketchiest thing I've ever rapped off of (3 pieces of webbing, piece of cord, quicklink) all appear in shockingly good condition. No snow yet, and views were incredible. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: brauda02
Info: Great trail up to the saddle at 12,800'. Then there is only the occasional climber's trail. There are very few cairns, and none in spots where you want one to be. I stayed mostly on the ridge crest or on climber's left. The one time I was forced to the right side there was a small patch of snow. I had microspikes, but never considered using them. This is a fun scramble on mostly solid rock. The lack of cairns does make you have to think more. I descended the South Slopes. No snow. 
4
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2020-06-27, By: moltar
Info: Some snow on the W arm down to the saddle to Citadel, did the traverse after summiting the regular way, some snow on the way up but mostly totally avoidable except for the very beginning entering the ramp from Herman Lake, but compacted and easily travelled on 
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2020-06-15, By: trudginalong
Info: Some downed trees on trail up to Herman Lake. Good snow around the lake's east side, even mid day on return. Decent patches of soft snow below the saddle & above the lake, but no issues crossing (trail runners/no traction). Standard route via the West/South is holding snow, we gained the ridge just to the South/East of the summit to avoid the snow. No issues on the ridge, decent glissades on the down. 
3
 
Route: East ridge from Hassell
Posted On: 2020-06-14, By: Trotter
Info: Trail to herman lake has some mud, and a few snow sections that are mostly pre-postholed. Class 3 ridge from Hassell is mostly dry, however, some very large cornices require you to drop down off the ridge onto some very loose talus, until you can regain the ridge. The ridge has some solid, fun class 3 sections. South slopes still holding some good snow, had some great glissades right down to herman lake. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-12-06, By: Will_E
Info: I used the familiar Herman's Gulch trail to approach Pettingell, then went to the right of the lake and up to the long ridge that approaches the peak from the east. This allows for some challenging class 3 ridge scrambling, made even more exciting with a fair amount of snow up high. The route is fairly obvious from Herman Lake. The trail to Herman lake was well packed the first 1-1.5 miles, I used no traction or flotation. From that point I was breaking trail in snowshoes to Herman lake, which is about 3.5 miles from the start. Once I started ascending from Herman lake, I used no traction or flotation, between exposed rocks and fairly soft snow, it wasn't really necessary. Once you turn left and get to the long ridge, there are some difficult sections to get around. I stayed as close to the ridge proper as possible, but it wasn't always possible, and I had a few class 4 moves to simplify the route. Fun route, and nice views from the summit. I descended the standard "south slopes" route, it was much easier and shorter than the east ridge. 
15 3
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2019-11-17, By: madmattd
Info: We swung around to climber's right on the way up instead of taking the ramp/gully from the lake due to it looking like it was full of potentially deep drifted powder (this was partially accurate). Above the lake we encountered a mix of boilerplate and powder when there was snow, and plenty of bare rocks and tundra too. No notable issues making the summit other than picking what is likely a steeper but more direct line up the last couple hundred feet to the summit. On the way down we glissaded the ramp, it too was a mix of boilerplate and powder, enough to keep speed under control. It would have been brutal to ascend. Microspikes were essential at times, and useful at many others, anything less was not effective at times. Snowshoes would have been useful for only a couple short stretches, not bringing them was overall the right call. One other person made the summit today by taking a route to the North of the standard approach to the summit (still an Eastern approach, hitting the summit from the East), he described it as "awful" in places, though more due to stiff wind gusts than anything, but he did run into a few places he would have needed full crampons to navigate. By and large we had winds consistent with the predictions, that is c.a. 15mph sustained with gusts approaching 30mph. In many places we had far less winds. 
 
Route: Southwest Ridge, East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-10-06, By: supranihilest
Info: From "The Citadel" the ridge goes at Class 2+ or Class 3. It's not particularly difficult but it is long and there's a lot of elevation gain. Once you're high on the ridge a the first false summit the terrain eases off to Class 2. If continuing north to "Hassell Peak" scramble along the obvious ridge. It's a long way to "Hassel" and a significant portion of it is scrambling. Most is Class 2 or Class 2+ but there's some harder stuff in there if you want it or aren't careful. The rock is mostly solid and stable but don't get complacent. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-06, By: rhammond530
Info: Summer conditions, no snow to contend with on the ridge. The lower snowfield above Herman Lake looks like you could still glissade for a couple hundred feet, but it's melting out quick. 
3
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-23, By: polar
Info: Pettingell east ridge is in summer conditions. What little snow there is can easily be avoided. 
2
 
Route: Citadel to Pettingell traverse
Posted On: 2019-07-20, By: nickle
Info: Nice day today on the traverse from Citadel to Pettingell. Route is snow free almost all the way to the Citadel, a few places where you have to traverse snow fields for maybe 30 yards. The traverse is snow-free and in good shape - plenty of loose rock from the freeze-thaw season though, tread lightly. Rap station on the traverse has probably 5 strands of tat on 2 rap rings and a quicklink, we (party of 2) and a party of approx 10 ahead of use used it without issue. We did see others climbing Snoopy's Collar as well, looks to still be in good shape with an early start. Photo #1: Distant view of Citadel and traverse Photo #2: Mostly snow-free saddle leading to Citadel Photo #3: Easily avoidable remnant of a cornice Photo #4: E Citadel summit + traverse Photo #5: Looking back on traverse + Snoopy's Collar 
5 3
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-30, By: rhammond530
Info: The east ridge route is not in condition for scrambling as of Saturday 6/29. There are several wind-loaded pockets with bad run-outs after the halfway point. My guess is that it will probably be good in 10 days to 2 weeks. 
3 1
 
Route: approach
Posted On: 2019-06-15, By: ktourian
Info: Herman Lake trail- significant debris from multiple avalanches (passable); snow on trail after about 1/4 mile from TH; postholing especially after mid-morning. Climbed up 2nd avalanche chute path (on dry ground- able to avoid snow fields), glissaded down next gully from saddle of peak 12,805 and unnamed peak to west. Patchy snow fields visible on approach to Pettingell; scrambling ridge to peak appeared mostly snow covered. 
1
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2019-05-05, By: jasayrevt
Info: This route qualifies as summit-ready. Ascending to the lake, and above, still has deep snow. So, some traction with trail runners is helpful. Enjoy 
15
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-07, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Summer conditions the entire way. I climbed Hassell Peak first via the CDT so I can't speak to the conditions of the slope if you were to do a direct shot the start of the east ridge from the junction on the Herman Gulch Trail, but the ridge proper was in great shape. South Slopes descent was also in good condition, not too loose or steep. 
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2018-07-29, By: kingshimmers
Info: Beautiful summer conditions! A few soggy spots directly above Herman Lake due to the recent rains, but otherwise dry. Thunderstorms rolled in from the north and continued to develop overhead with the first thunder heard around 2pm. Lots of marmots and pikas to be seen and a ridiculous amount of wildflowers. 
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2018-06-24, By: mjdzara18
Info: A few snowfields around, especially when starting the climb past Herman Lake. Mostly avoidable with no post-holing when they had to be crossed. No problem without any traction. 
 
Route: Citadel-Pettingell traverse
Posted On: 2018-05-24, By: mdmss
Info: Ridge is mostly dry, snow almost entirely avoidable. Solid anchor in place at the drop-off. Look to the right as you approach. We were able to glissade from the summit, but there are large bare patches that would hinder skiing. Not that that stopped a party of two today, who seemed to be having a good time. Surprisingly little postholing on the descent. 
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-11-25, By: d_baker
Info: Herman Gulch is packed & tracked, didn't need traction or flotation. Some snow around lake to gain gully leading to S slopes. Upper slopes intermittent snow. Ascended route as described on this site and descended face. 
5
 
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2017-11-18, By: Pikaskinpants
Info: Very well tracked snow from Herman gulch trailhead to the tree line. Floatation not necessary to make it to the lake, but extremely helpful. Turned around at lake. Used microspikes, should have worn gaiters. 

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