West RidgePosted On:
2020-09-21, By: GroverInfo:
Reached the summit of Leviathan Peak on Friday. If this peak is still on your '2020 To Climb' list or you want an excuse to get into the Weminuche, it is still in play. Snow free up to Leviathan Lake. Above the lake, the north facing talus slopes leading to the Leviathan/Pt. 13,420 saddle has a fair amount of snow. I am glad I brought microspikes for use in this section. The sun angle is not melting out the snow here, so it will remain persistent. After reaching the saddle, Jagged slaps you in the face- it is staggering. I took the west ridge, choosing the south facing side, as it was snow free and in the sun. The north facing side has snow and looks to be unpleasant. By taking the south facing side, you reach a dramatic pointed false summit. I down climbed to remaining route, which contained snow, and I used the microspikes again. From there, the route is snow free, and you can pick the easiest path, which has a couple cairns to help, avoiding the angled, blocky south face.
Photo 1: Atop the pointed false summit, looking over at the remaining route.
Photo 2: Looking SW from the summit, and you can see the snow below the false summit I down climbed.
Photo 3: Leviathan from the summit of Silex; you can see the persistent snow that is above Leviathan Lake, on the west side of the peak.