Eureka Mountain A  
Condition Updates  
Route: Eureka! Couloir
Posted On: 2021-04-10, By: supranihilest
Info: The Eureka! couloir is in perfect shape. Follow Hermit Pass Road to the signed trailhead and then continue straight ahead up a steep headwall. This is the first snow climb on the route and can be avoided by going higher on the road. At the top stay on the lower of two benches, the higher is sidehilly. Gear up at the base of the couloir then fire that sucker! Make a mental map of the couloir before going up, as there are several branches that go nowhere and it snakes around. With exception of the last 50 feet snow on the entire couloir was styrofoam to hard styrofoam, no mushy crap, no ice, no rock hard slab. Plenty of spindrift which has undoubtedly filled my tracks. The upper 50 feet was airy, icy, sugary garbage and hard to get purchase in. Some clawing my way up. I continued on to Hermit, Rito Alto, and 12,671, but you could down climb the couloir. Beware, it's pretty consistent in the 40-something degree range and the top is probably 50+. Gear: I wore trail runners from the bottom of the road to 11,300 feet, then put on boots and snowshoes. I wore snowshoes to the bottom of the couloir then switched to crampons and axe. I would say flotation, axe, and traction are all mandatory. 
11 2
Route: North Slope
Posted On: 2018-04-11, By: desertdog
Info: The recent storm seems to have missed this area. We drove to 10,300 ft. on Hermit Pass road after that it is blocked by snow drifts. With an early start you will not need snowshoes. We elected to climb up the slope and then the far right gully between the Eureka and Hermit saddle rather than going over Hermit (see pic). This is a great route. Easy class 3 with the snow. Much more fun than climbing Hermit twice. You will need spikes and an axe. Once on the north slope, there is not much snow. The traverse between Eureka's two summits is snow free. Hermit and Rito Alto had very little snow as well. This is a beautiful area and the conditions make it worth a visit right now. 
Route: North Slopes from Hermit Pass
Posted On: 2016-07-11, By: JasonKline
Info: The small amount of snow left was easily avoidable. It was extremely windy, with gusts making it hard to stand up at times. 
Route: NE Couly
Posted On: 2015-04-12, By: Monster5
Info: Parked around 9600 ft on Hermit Pass Rd, stopped at drifts (high clearance to there). Shuttled from Comanche/Venable TH. Snow is spring-like, consistent above 10K and mostly bare on S/SE facing stuff and ridgelines. Hard in am, bit punchy near rocks/vege in the pm. Snowshoes not used or brought, but recommended if descending a basin instead of a ridge. Followed the road/trail to Hermit Lake and booted up to the lake below Eureka (mod snow, 3rd class - easier swinging right or left). Climbed NE Couly on Eureka (left side of face; not the Eureka Couloir on the right side, which looked fully in). About 55-60 deg with two quickly melting AI2/4th class sections. A week earlier would be prime. Threw on trailrunners and moved on to Venable, Spring, Comanche (class 2, tundra/talus). Descended the E ridge of Comanche (class 4, snow. Perhaps only class 3 dry) and dropped to Comanche Lake (tundra. Mod. snow just above lake). Followed the snowshoe-packed trail out (bit punchy). 

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