Gladstone Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-28, By: jscully205
Info: Mostly dry with some east facing patchy snow as you get closer to the summit. I thought the snow was mostly avoidable. Rock on ridge proper was more stable vs dropping lower. 
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Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-07, By: durkan
Info: Ignorantly took the route advertised in Roach's 13ers book. Gaining the ridge proved to be the crux of this route; highly dangerous without snow packed in. I suggest doing the entire ridge from Rock of Ages Pass. Not only is it safer, but way more fun. 
 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-16, By: Danger_D
Info: Summer conditions from all approaches. There is some really fun climbing on the ridge but that sucker is loooong, both in time and mental energy. It took me 2 hours each way on the ridge to get back to the Wilson Peak trail at 13,200 and escape is only possible part of the time. There isn't anything crazy on the route, just lots of class 3/4 scambling with lots of ups and downs. If you're ticking off lists, get after it, but I would choose something more fun for just a random trip 
 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-10, By: CaptainSuburbia
Info: Great route if you stay on ridge proper. 
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Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: yaktoleft13
Info: Summer conditions. Had a blast on this route! Ignore the cairns and only deviate from ridge proper when it's obvious, and when you do, climb back to the ridge crest as soon as possible 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-07-02, By: dwoodward13
Info: This is a fantastic route and should be the standard route if you have orphaned it from Wilson Peak. Snow ramps are in excellent condition to cruise on up. I brought both spikes and pons and started with spikes but switched to pons as I just felt more comfortable on the steeper snow slopes. HikerGuys TR is an excellent resource and I basically followed it to the T. Only comment to make is after crossing between the two snowfields on the very upper face, head further toward the ridge, almost to the ridge itself, there is really solid lichen covered rock. Was able to boot ski/glissade the snow ramps descending. Left at 5am, summit at 9am, back to car at 1230pm Pic 1 overview from afar Pic 2 snow ramp Pic 3 upper face. Yellow is what I took up and is slightly looser than red I took down 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-06-29, By: Grover
Info: Climbed the peak on Friday, just listing today's date to get it at the top of the list. Add me to the growing list of climbers who think the East Face route is actually enjoyable and should be the preferred route for this intimidating peak. Cross Mtn. TH > Lizard Pass is snow free. The drop down into the basin is a matter of choosing your line to get to the ramps. There are still some snow ramps that you can use to make quick work up the East Face. I used crampons and poles for these initial ramps, since I did not bring microspikes, but wish I did, as I would have used them here to save time. You can hike on the ground/rock next to the snow, but eventually you will (should) transfer to the snow. Very straightforward to determine where to leave the snow and get onto the rock to the left (south) of the cliff band you are avoiding. The climb up to the short exposed section is not difficult and comes quick. The persistent snow atop the cliff band can be avoided, as the rock there is super solid. I think I put one foot into the snow coming down. I recommend going further to your right (north) to find the coveted lichen covered rock to climb straight to the summit and the famous crow bar. This peak is still in the Wilson Group, so some rocks will move slightly or tilt, but nothing slid at me/on me and I thought the route was solid. I want to say thanks here to HikerGuy, wineguy & JQDivide for their recent Trip Reports on this route, as I pulled from them to make my cheat sheet for my climb. And thanks to dhagan and KalenJones for some beta via PM after their recent climbs. Image 1: The conditions of the East Face as of Friday Image 2: Looking up at the exposed section and cliff band after stepping off the snow Image 3: The exposed section above the cliff band Image 4: Looking down over the East Face from ~20' off the summit 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-06-15, By: dhagan
Info: Great day for Gladstone Peak via East Face (except for all the smoke from nearby wildfires). Cross Mountain trail snow free to Lizard Head Pass. The low traverse around Bilk Basin below Cross Mountain and Gladstone has a few snow patches that are easily passable. There continues to be nearly continuous snow until the steeper final summit pitch. The upper cliff band just below this is an easy scramble between snow sections. The snow is well consolidated and easily manageable with the morning sun without crampons, though crampons would be very reasonable to use as well. I am so glad we did this rather than the "standard" North Ridge route. Way more fun with snow ascent and descent and reasonably stable rock for the scramble sections. Much better than the treacherous reports for the North Ridge route. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-06-11, By: KalenJones
Info: Trail to Lizard Head saddle essentially snow free. Good coverage on east face up to steeper rock. Crampons much appreciated on ascent, good glissading conditions with 10:15 am departure from summit, on sunny but breezy and cooler than average day. 
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Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-15, By: tjf242424
Info: Dry the entire way from Rock of Ages saddle. The ridge is long (took us about 4 hours round trip). 
 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2019-08-13, By: angry
Info: Recommend carrying an axe, as a slip on the snow field would send you into rocks. Dry from ridge to summit. Ascended same route as hiker guy but descended below cross mountain ridge to avoid snow on the way out and head directly back to the cross mountain trail. 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2019-08-08, By: glenmiz
Info: Less snow than the previous condition report. Snow was supportive but mushy and slippery. 
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Route: East Face/Cross Mtn TH
Posted On: 2019-07-21, By: HikerGuy
Info: What a cool peak, this route will make you love Gladstone. Awesome snow climb right now. Cross Mountain trail is snow free and dry all the way to the Lizard Head saddle. Snow travel begins after a few hundred feet down in the basin. Snow travel is low to moderate-angle up to cliff band. I carried an ice axe, but did not use it. Traction needed, I used crampons as they provide more bite on softer snow. Once on the left side weakness of the cliff band, no snow from there until summit. Rock was surprisingly stable. I was able to stay on lichen-covered rock the whole way. This should be the standard route, I think it would even be good in dry/summer conditions. 11.3 miles roundtrip. 
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Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-17, By: 5ClimbingCooneys
Info: VIA BILK BASIN: There has been significant avalanche activity in this basin. We rode bikes from the Sunshine Mesa trailhead to the creek crossing. The 1st mile is good to go, but the last mile has frequent slide debris that makes passage via bike very time-consuming (mainly downed trees). Could not find much evidence of the railroad car or old structure immediately on the other side of the creek after crossing. The log jam has been partially removed by the high waters and is not currently usable as a suitable crossing. There's a snow bridge where the old railcar used to be that we used to cross, but it's showing signs of melting out soon. After it's gone, it may be necessary to wade the creek to cross. The upper basin is mostly buried in deep snow starting around 11,200'. We found a single usable tent site just before the trail drops out of the trees around 11,200'. The upper lake is still covered by snow, as is the entire basin. Great climbing conditions if you like to avoid all the rock! 
 
Route: East Face up, north ridge down
Posted On: 2018-05-27, By: bmcqueen
Info: We climbed east Face from Cross Mountain trail. Snow was great in the Basin, but gets mighty thin at the cliff band. We climbed the rocks on the south side of the face to access the snow again above the cliff band. From there, climbed the snow straight to the summit, but that won't be there much longer. North ridge descent was mostly dry. 
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Route: SE Face
Posted On: 2018-05-11, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: From Cross mtn TH, there is intermittent snow to the pass, the trail is very muddy. Snow in bilk basin is great and did not posthole or need snowshoes. Snow conditions on the route are good, but was a bit slushy coming down around 8:30am. Get this route while its still in! 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2018-04-28, By: dude4mountains
Info: From Cross Mountain TH - First mile: mud/slop. Mostly continuous snow to Lizard Head/Cross Mtn saddle. Solid snow across Bilk Basin. Continuous high quality snow climb to the summit. 
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Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2017-08-10, By: zinj
Info: Route from the high saddle above (near) Rock of Ages is not at all clear -- which is fine, but plan for this to take longer than you expect. I did a lot of E side traverse below the ridgeline on the way out and mostly stuck the ridge on the way back. Neither choice was obviously better than the other. This is a loose, long ridge that exhausts the mind as much as the body. Nearly every step required a decision -- there were few stretches of more than a couple of steps in succession where a climber could just 'obviously' continue in a particular direction. Got beat up enough (and delayed enough) by Gladstone that I had to drop my attempt on Wilson Pk as weather rolled in. But came back following day to tag Wilson Pk. While sharing an approach, from the point of splitting off, Gladstone and Wilson Pk aren't even in the same zipcode. Gladstone is a much harder climb. 
 
Route: E slopes
Posted On: 2016-08-15, By: Monster5
Info: From Cross Mtn Trail, went up lizard head (dry, anchors in good condition), then hiked up the east slopes (tundra/rock hop) of Gladstone and gained the SE ridge a few hundred ft from the top (class 3). Route is snow free. I guess a bit loose, but nothing unreasonable or unpredictable. 
 
Route: North Ridge
Posted On: 2016-07-07, By: asnellstrom
Info: Yesterday we climbed Wilson Peak and Gladstone. The ridge looks way shorter and more inviting than it really is! All of the reports live up to its reputation of being quite loose. Some snow on the ridge just below the summit can be easily navigated through closest to the top of the ridge. Overall a fun hike! No traction necessary. Also, I like how the summit registry is held in place by an old crowbar, very unique. 
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