Route: East Face / South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-19, By: Clint the climber
Info: The road up Porphyry basin (FS 822) is in good condition. It's steep and narrow, but any 4 wheel drive vehicle should be able to get up it. There are very few places to pass people on the last 3/4 mile of the road. The mountain itself is almost completely dry. Only a few small snow patches remain that can be avoided. On the way up I took the east face and gained the ridge through the northernmost prominent notch. It's loose but goes easily. The route up the ridge to the summit is loose. No summit register. On the way down I took the south ridge all the way to just above the grassy slope on the southern end of the east face. This also goes but there are some cliffs that must be skirted around to the west. Stick to the ridge as much as possible and use a series of notches, ledges, and ramps to bypass the towers. Climbing up the east face to the northernmost notch is by far the more pleasant way.
Route: East Slopes/South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-29, By: TravelingMatt
Info: From Porphyry Lake, go up the right (north) gully, or the middle gully if you're counting the gully coming down from the summit. The left/south gully offers no way of getting onto the ridge. Approaching the gully, stay left (south) on larger boulders for best footing. Once in the gully the left (south) side has a fair amount of support. Turn right (north) at the ridge and stay under towers to the left (west). Do not go all the way to the obvious gap between two of the Needles, but instead look for a chute about 2/3 of the way there. Ascend this loose class 3 chute for some 15 feet, then walk up to summit on loose class 2 rock. (If combining with T10, start down to Black Bear Pass from T10 but at around 13000' tack southeast under the summit massif and stay level. A cairned trail should develop on T10's SE shoulder to take you into Porphyry Basin.)