Mt. Meeker  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-28, By: Laxer04
Info: Ideal conditions, dry all the way to summit. Knife edge is dry as well 
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-27, By: graberz
Info: We started at 4:45 am and summited around 9:15 am. As the reports state route finding after the hunters creek turn off is a little difficult especially in the dark. We timed it so it was getting light when we were in this area. there is broken trail segments kind of everywhere. If there is considerable deadfall back track and there was likely another trail and you chose poorly. We went up to mt meeker first which I thought never got too difficult unless you wanted it to. We crossed the knifes “ledge” Which was solid and fun. We stuck ridge proper over to meeker ridge at 9:45 am and down the ridge proper. It took about 3.5 hrs down. We went further southeast into the trees which wasn't great and would just cut down much sooner. The weather was much better than expected. It never got too cold or too gusty. We saw a handful of people on Longs. No snow on our trail. It was still trail runner shoe season. Notably really cool inversion coming up over the east face and cloud cover over the front range. 
4
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-03, By: Jay521
Info: Summer conditions. Followed the route description for the most part. This is NOT an easy 13er! Long day. Not going to post my trip time cuz it would certainly be the worst.. But I got the damned thing! 
2
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-24, By: bangerth
Info: Perfect conditions. Took the SW ridge up -- apart from the stretch along the creek that's off-trail, there are no substantial route-finding difficulties if you've memorized the route description. For the off-trail part through the forest, use the rule that close to the stream is where you want to be. If you lose the trail (which happened to us at least half a dozen times), it's likely to your left along the stream. We took the SE ridge down to the saddle between Meeker and Lookout Mountain, and from there the (very good, but often still steep) trail back out to the road. Walked the road back to the Sandbeach Lake Trailhead. Be prepared for a very very long way back: It's 5,500 ft of elevation to lose, and must have taken us ~6 hours with stops. 
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-13, By: nmedica
Info: Trail was clear up the bowls. There is still a pretty large snowfield that needs to be navigated around, but it can be avoided on talus, etc... 
 
Route: Dark Star
Posted On: 2020-05-31, By: jscully205
Info: Coulior is not in condition. No ice and lots of hiking on the way up. Climbs like a 5.7 off-width with some dry tooling. Normally an M5- WI3. Still a fun day out. Snow climbs around Chasm Cirque are not good to climb right now in my opinion. No overnight freezing has rendered the snow into a posthole fest. 
8 1
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2019-10-27, By: Dose
Info: Solid trench from trailhead to Chasm Lake. Worked my way up the loft couloir on the exposed rock. As the couloir narrows near the exit to the ramp, snow is waist to chest deep. Ended up going to far climbers left and climbed solid Class 3 rock and traversed over to the ramp. Route from ramp to loft has some snow but was able to follow the route. Ice axe and crampons are needed. Route was clear loft to summit. 
 
Route: Loft
Posted On: 2019-09-15, By: durkan
Info: Summited via the Loft. Wind was pretty notorious, but low storm risk made up for it. Clear switchbacks go up scree on the south side of the couloir, but found it easier to go up the north side on larger boulders and talus and descend the south scree. Only concerning ice was on the ramp after the couloir, but it's avoidable if you're cautious. 
 
Route: Loft
Posted On: 2019-09-13, By: jeffmpls
Info: In spite of the snow from Wednesday, the route to Meeker was mostly ice free in the coulior leading up to the Loft. There was some frozen areas, but for the most part they were easily avoidable. The summit did have some crystallized frozen snow on the rocks which necessitated watching your footing, but again it wasn't anything to keep you off the peak. Temperatures were cold in the morning 25-30 degrees and the wind was blowing 30-40 mph. 
1
 
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2019-07-21, By: Sbenfield
Info: No snow 
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-22, By: bludwig
Info: Peak was dry minus two really packed-down snow fields by Chasm Lake. A lot of rock on the Iron Gates gully is still loose but on the push before Meeker Ridge and the knife edge are solid. One thing we did not know is to drop LOW initially from Meeker Ridge to the knife edge, we stayed high and and the moves are a bit sketchier. Take your time for route finding because there are many safe alternatives along the route. Plan for about 45 minutes to an hour each way across the the knife and a really annoying descent into the Iron Gates gully. Photo 1 is of the Iron Gates just beyond Chasm Lake. Photo 2 is the top of the Iron Gates gully Photo 3 is Meeker from the saddle of the knife edge with Longs in the background. 
3
 
Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 2019-07-07, By: Imcp
Info: Snowy in the loft couloir, especially at the top. I did not summit due to lack of sleep causing me to burn out midway up the couloir but 2 of my group did with just poles and microspikes. (Edit: they exited straight out the top of the couloir, did not follow the loft route, staying on route is snowy but probably pretty doable without crampons) That said, an ice axe is highly recommended, especially for the descent for glissading the steep stuff. Actual snow conditions are not significantly different from those pictured in the previous Meeker conditions report. 
2
 
Route: North Face above Chasm cirque
Posted On: 2019-07-01, By: jfm3
Info: I hiked Mt. Lady Washington & Chasm Lake and got a good look at the conditions in the Chasm cirque and on the north side of Mt. Meeker. Evidence of some slide activity (not sure how old) and plenty of booters/tracks headed up the Loft. 1: On MLW summit looking down at Chasm Lake. 2. Upper Meeker & Ship's Prow from MLW summit. 3. At the Chasm Lake snow crossing, looking up Meeker & the Loft. 
3
 
Route: Loft and Iron Gates
Posted On: 2019-06-10, By: HikerGuy
Info: Ideal conditions today on Mount Meeker, hard freeze overnight, blue skies, light wind. Went up the Loft Couloir, snow was perfect for cramponing. The exit ramp is snow covered, but no problems. You can avoid almost all snow on the ridge over to the east summit as well as descending the Iron Gates route, no traction needed once leaving the Loft. 
8 4
 
Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2019-05-20, By: angry
Info: Great conditions heading to base of climb and then the storm rolled in. Graupel from about 12,800 on. Roped up for the crux and made a quick ascent of the summit and ridge and then down climbed the ledges to descend via the loft. Low visibility and poor snow quality did not allow for any glissading. Used a 70 meter rope but a 30 would've worked; light rack and a second ice tool came in handy; ice screws not needed. 
3
 
Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 2019-05-19, By: Conor
Info: Snow filled the entire way. very little, almost no ice. If you desire snowy conditions, this is the time. Firm snow underneath, wind loaded in places. The "cruxes" take some work clearing snow for dry tooling. We traversed over to Meeker Ridge, icy and snowy in spots. We did it sans points, but snow/ice will prevent veering too far off the ridge. Descent into loft via the ramp is steep snow (50 ish). Loft after entering on ramp is nicely filled in all the way to the Chasm Lake crappers. We rode our butt wagons most of the way down the loft. No signs of avy - natural, fractures of wind slab, etc. No wet slides seen. Photos: 1) approach from about Chasm lake level. 2) start of 1st choke after the apron. 3) top of first crux. 4) start of the business after the notch. 5) finishing off the steep climb at the top. snow filled pretty much to the summit. 
5
 
Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 2018-11-26, By: kingshimmers
Info: Just a visit to Sandbeach Lake today, but worth noting that the route has a ton of snow. By the time we reached Hunter's Creek crossing, we were creating a >2ft deep trench while breaking trail in our gigantic snowshoes. Snow is currently fairly powdery and not too heavy in the trees, but there's a lot of it. Meeker itself looks windblown. 
2
 
Route: via Iron Gates/Loft
Posted On: 2018-09-17, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Ascended via the Iron Gates, hit Meeker Ridge, crossed the knife edge and summited the fantastic Mount Meeker. Descended via the Loft. Everything is in full summer conditions. 
 
Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 2018-09-03, By: crowdsurf
Info: Ascended and descended the iron gates route with 14ers.com member r_grizz on 9/2. Didn't get any good shots of the knife edge but this part of the route is in good condition and was free of lingering moisture. Rock is very solid and of good composition. There is a tricky down climb to gain the knife edge that required a couple of moves. Small amounts of graupel and verglass are lingering in the shady areas around the ridge and just below the entrance to the knife edge but these are entirely avoidable. You can see that temps are dropping at night. There is a section while gaining the ridge about half way to the iron gates where the rock is pretty unstable. Use caution in this area as almost everything moves here and descending was treacherous. 
5
 
Route: Via the Loft
Posted On: 2018-07-25, By: Flyingfish
Info: The loft couloir has a lot of water running down it. This is avoidable by staying to the climbers left on the way up. Once you hit the slab section just below the exit ramp there is no escaping the water. The loft is completely dry and the route up Meeker is dry. 

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