Maroon Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-11, By: taylorharris50
Info: Summer conditions and clear air. Really enjoying the permit system this year. The crowds are a fraction of what they were in prior years. We saw 4 people on Maroon Peak on a Saturday. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-10-10, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Dry. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-10-08, By: Snow_Dog_frassati
Info: Summer conditions. Only important thing to know is there is no good water source at Crater Lake. The lake is currently dry, there is a spring near-ish (on the way down North we crossed it) but we just collected our water at the trailhead. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-23, By: Kcmartinez22
Info: There was no attendant checking passes so I wrote my name and reservation number on paper and placed it on my dash. Seems like an odd system. Entire route is snow free. We accidentally got off route ascending and descending the 2800 ft of suck....lesson learned was if you're looking for a better trail down, there isn't one. You must endure the suck. Incredible peak!!! 
3 3
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: Marshall
Info: Second what Geckser said. It's drying out on the traverse daily, and the chimney off North Maroon was dry and easily handled. We had microspikes and never used them. The rock seemed good where it needed to be (checked every hold anyway). The aspens were noticeably more colorful when I left than even 30 hrs before. Worth noting: I was running late, so I parked in the pay lot at the shuttle from 9am to 5pm the next day and was charged $30. 
1
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: Geckser
Info: Trail is in near summer conditions with a small amount of concerning snow on the traverse. On the standard route there is no snow that can not be easily avoided. The descent from Maroon Peak to the Bell Cord notch is somewhat snowy but never terribly icy. The snow can be all but avoided by hopping on rocks. Once you start the difficult part of the traverse there is no snow whatsoever, very pleasant conditions. The aspens are starting to turn and the smoke was not bad at all. 
5
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: PikaSteve
Info: Route is almost completely snow-free and dry to summit thanks to mainly facing southeast or southwest slopes. Any snow on route is avoidable and no traction was needed on Friday. However, north facing slopes are continuing to hold snow. Some gold colors above Crater Lake, but Maroon Lake is still mostly green and sky was smoky gray for most of the day. Long day, but a fun day. Long slope was OK. I enjoyed the route finding and class 3 challenges. 
12
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-09-21, By: Jgurk92
Info: The route up Maroon peak was almost completely clear of snow. You don't need traction to summit and I thought the route was surprisingly easy to find. The down climb off Maroon still had a fair bit of snow and while we didn't use our micro spikes on this bit it definitely took a good 45 minutes to get down. From the Bell Cord the climb up to North Maroon was mostly clear with just a couple snow patches that were easy to avoid. The down climb off North Maroon was the snowiest. We used our micro spikes but never our ice axes. We decided to avoid the chimney as the down climb looked pretty sketchy and went left to find easier terrain. Overall, I wouldn't say super safe conditions but definitely doable if you have plenty of time. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-17, By: Makbrad
Info: A lot of snow has melted since the last conditions report below was posted. Almost all of the traverse itself is dry with the exception of a few patches and pockets, some avoidable, some not. The chimneys on the spires are dry. The downclimbs off both Maroon and North Maroon are holding snow and some pockets of ice. These are currently the two cruxes of the climb. The downclimb off Maroon toward the traverse is pretty hairy in a few areas. Spikes are helpful. There are a couple of small pockets of ice on some of the rocks. Downclimbing snow and ice sections took the most time outside of route finding along the traverse. The biggest crux is the class 4 chimney downclimb off North Maroon as it is still holding a small amount of snow and ice on each step of the 20 foot downclimb. We climbed down this chimney in spikes very slowly and carefully. Doable, but gnarly and sketchy on some of the moves. Beyond this, there is still snow as seen in the photo with the goats above my partner. Full Trip Report: https://makbrad.com/14ers/curious-bells 
15 4
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-12, By: Christensenje
Info: Climb up to the south ridge was long and had a lot of snow crossings, but very doable with conditions. After that, it's a snow climb. Ice axe and crampons pretty necessary. Lots of snow. Some rocks to stick to when possible. Gullies all filled in nicely. I'd think they'll be filled in for a week or two max with no new snow with how protected the are. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-07, By: Clint the climber
Info: I was able to get my hands on midnight - midnight parking permit which allowed for a 4 am start. The route is completely dry. I ran into a mountain lion just past Crater lake around 4:45 am. The South Ridge is a classic, go get her! 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: Wild Bill
Info: Okay trail condition. The trail is under heavy use so erosion is a factor with poor foot holds. When you gain the main ridge the trail is actually easier. Once you start up the main gulley (west side) grab left when you can and start climbing. You gain and lose grade for a while before you start for a more direct climb. Overall it's an easy climb. Still allow yourself some time for route finding. 
6 3
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-18, By: litote312
Info: No snow encountered, there's one field on the wall of suck that can be avoided by going above. One note (not sure if this is conditions or not but figured I'd share), halfway up ascending the wall I heard something above me that sounded like a stampede. Looked up toward in the direction of the summit and it turned out to be a couple dozen rocks bouncing down the slope heading my way. Was able to duck next to a nearby ledge in time before they hit the area I was just standing. No one above me, might have been a mountain goat. Just wanted to share because even if you and the people on the mountain take precautions to not kick rocks, anything can happen. Grateful to have a helmet (though not sure it would even do anything with rocks tumbling down a slope that steep). 
1
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-14, By: bforrest
Info: Trail is clear as day. One small snow patch on east slopes ascent can be easily avoided. Route finding wasn't as tough as expected. Just keep an eye out for cairns at all times. Honestly thought the ascent up the side of the mountain to the ridge was far, far more difficult than the ridge itself. I've never seen anything so steep for so long! Made the descent pretty tough too. Hiked into Crater Lake to camp night before. Took a taxi from Aspen to TH, then hitchhiked (with masks) to Aspen Highlands and grabbed free bus back to town. Overall, felt this hike was more difficult than Capitol. 
2 3
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-07-06, By: CaptCO
Info: No traction needed, or axe. Wet rock on descent of N Maroon. I wouldn't do the traverse without sufficient experience imo. It lived up to the hype in parts. CFI building new trail on N Maroon 
15 5
 
Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-25, By: Paul_Adelgren
Info: We made it to 13,000' before turning around due the rough shape of the couloir and and the possibility of rain coming in. Although the slope is only 45 deg it can get very steep when crossing deep runnels and going through moguls. The snow is very hard packed with hard ice in a few spots, even after 2pm it was still in good shape. However, it doesn't look like the couloir will be passable for much longer especially with how warm this week is supposed to be. It is getting very narrow and filled with rocks at about 13,800. 
2
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-23, By: MOUNTAINMANMIKE88
Info: All dry conditions past crater lake. Once on the 2800 ft of suck about a 1/4 in to it you hit few snow fields. 1 is avoidable. I would definitely take spikes and ice axe maybe can just climbed up the snow field insted but if crossing them the trail is slant so cross and go up a non trail to get back to trail. We had stopped a few hundred feet from the ridge. But definitely bring spikes and axe. Maybe will save time 
4 4
 
Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-23, By: Jonathan Deffenbaugh
Info: Was able to get ~2,600 vertical feet of snow climbing in going up Bell Chord Couloir, starting up above the garbage chute. Before then I had to climbed to the right of the garbage chute and turned left before hitting up the waterfall after ~200 ft of snow climbing, ended up being the best and easiest way of getting access to Bell Chordm Runnels are there including some melted areas halfway up, ended up using two ice axes for stability. Descended via the standard South Ridge route, definitely watch for cairns beneath you, had to double back quite a few times, because I was too high, also a couple of snow crossings you have to manage, ice axe necessary in some spots beneath the genderarms. 
15 1
 
Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: slawrence2011
Info: Agree with Jakomait's report, wanted to add a few notes and pictures. I had a good ascent up the bell cord, which was decent for climbing, but many exposed rocks and deep 8 ft+ runnels. It is an easy ascent to the right of the garbage chute cliffs, and just have to go through about 100ft of loose scree slope to connect that right ascent and the main couloir. I heard of someone climbing the waterfall, but I'm not that brave. The traverse to S Maroon was 99.9% snow free, one easy optional snow move. I attempted to ski down the couloir, and was only able to do a few jump turns near the top and the bottom, as it was less than 1-2 ft width of skiable snow for close to 1,000 ft near the choke due to rock and runnels. Bill Middlebrook would probably be able to ski it! Also, I could not get a parking permit, so was fairly easy to park at Tiehack lift free parking, cross the pedestrian bridge to Maroon Creek Rd, and hitch a ride up. Plenty of campsites available at Crater lake, even for a weekend. 
12 4
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: Jakomait
Info: Went up the Bell Cord to Maroon Pk then did the Traverse to N Maroon and down NE route. Conditions were primo for everything but the final descent off of N Maroon but if you got that far, I'm sure you'll sort that out too. 

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