Maroon Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-01, By: Moogie737
Info: Camped in the designated campsites and struck out around 5:20 in the morning. The snow apron of the Bell Cord began shortly after we passed the devastated designated camping sites #10 & 11. Snow in the apron and couloir was generally good but the deep runnels were truly aggravating. We ended up doing our best to avoid getting into them wherever possible. Had to negotiate around one small waterfall. Many places near cliff bottoms were melting out giving the appearance of bergschrunds. Slope angle the last 300' was extremely steep. The route from the top of the Bell Cord was a tricky mix of bare rock, wet rock, snow-covered rock, intermittent loose gravel gullies, short but steep snow fields and then even steeper snow almost all the way to the summit. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-21, By: Will_E
Info: Summitted South Maroon today. There is a lot of avalanche damage in the Elks. I've been in most of the state's mountain ranges the past month or so, and aside from the area around Lake City, nothing compares to how much damage I saw today. The trail requires a bit of navigating in and around avalanche damage, it slows you down a bit, but not too bad. A lot of snow above treeline, but didn't post hole much. I took snowshoes, but never used them. When you get to the backside of the mountain, there is a fair amount of snow in some of the galleys, I was able to avoid most of it with creative route finding (I had neither crampons or an ice axe, and didn't even use micro spikes I had with). This was the most challenging route finding I've encountered on a 14'er thus far, but I actually enjoyed it. Will be doing this one again soon. 
14 6
 
Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2019-06-16, By: sammyjoe88
Info: Big runnels are the name of the game as usual on this one. The snowpack seemed very summer like. I know it froze above 13k but that's it. No signs of instability, such as rollerballs and point release slides, even as the sun beat down in the morning but there was sounds of running water under the runnels. The snow stayed supportable for a climb. We experienced very little rockfall even with the warming temps. We were cautiously optimistic and probably naively hoping for a ski off the east face and even started at 11pm the night before, but no dice. There were too many rocks just out of sight but near the surface on the east face for my comfort and the runnels were massive in the Cord. We probably missed that window by at least 3 weeks. We witnessed at least 4 skiers head off north maroon so it would appear that might be skiable in the immediate future. 1) Bell Cord below the traverse 2)east face from summit 3)runnels or frozen water slides, it's up to you. 4)north ridge of maroon peak 5)overview 
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Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 2019-06-10, By: bjbatchelor
Info: Three groups (7 people total) attempted the Bell Cord on Saturday morning. It might not have even hit freezing the night before and there was light rain from 2-4am. Skiing conditions were too warm. The bell cord was beat up, but the SW and Y couloir may still be in if conditions get better. I turned around at the base of the couloir. The rest made it to the saddle but couldn't make it to the summit safely without a rope because the snow was too transitional. Someone had done the Traverse a few days before when temps were colder, but Saturday was just too warm. The Bell Cord is consolidating. It has big runnels and quite a bit of wet slide, but should be better in coming weeks or after a good freeze. 
3
 
Route: Y couloir, SW couloir
Posted On: 2019-06-02, By: SnowAlien
Info: Incredible amount of snow. We considered skiing Y couloir, Bell Cord or SW couloir. Today was a very warm day with marginal freeze and Y couloir already has a lot of debris and a big runnel. Calf to knee deep boot pack in transitional snowpack. Couldn't see Bell Cord, but conditions are probably very similar. Like North Maroon, the mountain is shedding snow, so wet slides and waterfalls are frequent. After climbing Y, merged with a standard route on South Maroon, although snow makes route finding quite difficult, and we ended up climbing something that felt significantly harder than our general recollection of the standard route. The ridge to the summit is a giant continuous cornice that seemed to be ready to peel off in a couple places. We made sure to choose our footing wisely. Went a bit down a summit ridge on the other side to check out potential descent, similar story - big cornices, a giant, bus size cornice on the summit itself. Due to sheer amount of snow, ascent from Bell Cord would appear to be problematic given current conditions. My 4th summit of Maroon, and conditions on the upper mountain currently appear to be more difficult than during our calendar winter mid-March ascent 2 years ago. Skied SW couloir into Fravert basin, which has transitioned to corn with a big runnel forming near the bottom (somewhat still avoidable). Overall a grand adventure under current conditions. 
9 3
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-09-30, By: davisrice4
Info: Standard Route up South Maroon was completely dry, descent to the bell cord had snow which was avoidable, all of the ridge traverse was dry, the descent off of north maroon had snow which was not avoidable and made the class 4 sections a bit slick. This was saturday and snow was forecasted for today and a couple other days throughout this week. If going for the bells, I would recommend gear for snow for the rest of the season. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-09-24, By: Conor J
Info: Overall, great conditions on the main trails for Maroon Peak and North Maroon. Downclimb of Maroon heading across the traverse had snow still on Sunday; the next storm that rolls through the region will likely put this traverse out of commission for all but the most daring. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-09-22, By: johntmv
Info: The Bells Traverse was free of snow/ice and running at summer conditions, except for the downclimb off of Maroon Peak. This made things a little slow-going and required extra concentration at times. Some sort of traction device would be helpful, but ultimately, not entirely necessary. Photo #1 looks directly at the downclimb, while photo #2 shows the downclimb with the traversing ridge in the foreground. 
2
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-21, By: WSC_Geologist12
Info: Got to Maroon Lake TH on 9/19 around 7:00 PM - it was pouring rain which I figured meant snow up high. Next day on Maroon I didn't see any snow until we entered some of the West Facing terrain well above 13,200'. The snow was most prominent in the gully between 13,753 and Maroon and the final pitch to gain the summit ridge. However, on our return the snow was mostly gone everywhere that we could see. I will add that the wet conditions on the "2,800 feet of suck" were not ideal because the soil gets nice n' greasy when wet. Also, the snow was pretty prominent on the north slopes looking down at the traverse which could be enough to make the start of the bells traverse a little spicy. I'm guessing that snow on North Facing slopes will probably hang around. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-17, By: Reg0928
Info: Route is currently totally snow free. I didn't do the traverse, but there was no snow on it that was visible from Maroon. 
3
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-09-10, By: thebeave7
Info: Still snow lingering on the start of the traverse once you descend from South Maroon's summit. Makes things a bit tricky as snow is unavoidable. After the Bell cord snow is a non-issue on route though. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-09-09, By: soloclimber97
Info: Route up S. Maroon is dry, snow/ice coming off of the ridge from South to N. Maroon making things pretty sketchy. Weather looks pretty dry this week so could melt out by next weekend. Rest of traverse is in summer conditions. Minimal snow descending North, should melt out within the next day or two. Photo 1: snow near chimney descending North Photo 2: looking back on the traverse with snow seen on South 
2
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-08-26, By: dwoodward13
Info: Left parking lot at 350am. Trail up to turn off easy to navigate in the dark. Turn off can be easily missed so would recommend having the GPS waypoint. 2800' of suck I really didn't think was too bad. It's steep certainly, but a decent trail is there. We had some difficulty finding the cross over ledge from gully 1 to where it traverses and meets gully 2. We tried to exit too low, but it was pretty obviously not the correct way so if you do this, it will be apparent you are not at the right spot. No issues past that. No snow on the route. Summit around 830. See North Maroon for Traverse conditions. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-08-15, By: ElConrado
Info: A superb trip up Maroon. On trail at 0434. Got off-trail a couple of times and pursued many 'interesting' routes all across the mtn. making the 12 mile trek into a 16 mile roundtrip. A challenging and satisfying day. Weather was EXCELLENT, no wind, warm temps and lots of sunshine. Attached picture expresses the joy we experienced at summit, this is my main climbing partner and sister of 58 years! 
1
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-08-02, By: BigC
Info: A beautiful day to be up on Maroon. Hard to believe I had the whole thing to myself when I summited around 10AM. It rained midday, but no thunder or lightning, and the moisture didn't stick long. Truly, the worst part of this climb was descending the South Ridge meadow/slope. The dirt trail is veryyyyyy dry, very steep, and very fine, so it will make your shoes quite slick. I wear Salomon's with big teeth and it was still very slick. Trekking poles and spikes or yak-traks might help with the traction. Towards the end of the day, several large parties (mostly children and their chaperones) were hiking in to camp for the weekend. Be prepared for a busy weekend in the Bells. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-08-01, By: wireless973
Info: Route was completely dry all the way up. As other have mentioned the gullies are the sketchy parts. I followed the advice of others and did gully 1 on the way up and gully 2 by accident coming down. I would say gully 1 is your best bet as it is more solid. I would avoid being caught in the gullies if there are people above you, as there will most definitely be rocks coming down your way. Route finding can be quite challenging at times, especially going back down. Make sure you budget a good deal of time for this one and start early, you do not want to be trying to get down this during an afternoon storm. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-07-22, By: Flyingfish
Info: Route is mostly dry all the way up outside of some water flowing down the two gullies portion of Maroon. This is easily avoided by sticking to the sides of the gully. The traverse is dry but beware of a few 200 pound+ boulders that sit on the ridge crest and are ready and able to fall of the ridge. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-07-24, By: heathcliff
Info: Route was dry for ascent. The only real sketchy part was the gullies. At 13,700, I would recommend gully 1 on the way up and down, may be steeper but seems more solid. I went down gully 2 and started a gravel slide that poured for 2 minutes, luckily i was the only one out there. Slow going with difficult route finding for the last 200 ft or so. Coming down, route finding was even harder. Light rain came in on the way down making conditions slightly slippery - due to this very steep trail from 10,500 up. You're gonna want a dry day for this one. 
 
Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 2018-07-16, By: mtn_clmbr
Info: Standard route up to S. Maroon is approx 2700 ft of pure awfulness, be prepared for a slog up. Once of the ridge, route finding is the biggest issue along with rockfall from climbers ahead of you. Wear a helmet and tread lightly. The traverse has difficult route finding also, save photos on your phone from the app or print pictures, it helps. The downclimb off S. Maroon to start the traverse is made more difficult if you descend too far like we did, you'll start off down climbing low class 5, not recommended, take the small dirt "trail" to the far left and bypass this area. We mostly stayed on the west side of the ridge approx 50-100 ft, it bypassed some of the difficulty on the ridge itself but has a good amount of loose junk rock and the climb back to get back on route is difficult. The traverse took approx 1 hr 45 mins and we weren't moving that fast. Push down on rocks and test them out before trusting your life with them. Be ready for a difficult down climb on N. Maroon. I was happy to be following folks who had climbed N. Maroon prior and knew the route down. It is easy to lose. Exposure level is high on the traverse but it's a very fun climb and beats climbing up N. Maroon/Descending S. Maroon. No snow on the route as of 7-14-18. 
 
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-07-15, By: supranihilest
Info: The trail to the ridge, if you can call it that, is essentially just steep, loose dirt and rock. It's not too terrible going up but it is beyond tedious going down. Once on the ridge I did not find the rock quality, route finding, nor difficulty of climbing to be as bad as expected, but your mileage may vary. I studied the route quite a bit beforehand and you will do well to do so as well. I went up the second gully and as expected the rock in the middle is incredibly loose. Stick to the sides if you can, the rock walls that make up the gully will be great stabilizers. Once you're climbing the ledges on the face below the summit you can pretty much climb anywhere. Keeping the difficulty at purely class 3 isn't too difficult but there's plenty of class 4 lurking there as well. Again, I didn't find the rock as rotten as its reputation indicates but you should still test every hold. 

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