Vermilion Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: From Beattie Peak/Southwest Basin
Posted On: 2020-08-24, By: supranihilest
Info: From Beattie Peak's summit head north down the ridge towards the Beattie/Fuller saddle. This is where the trail from Lake Fork San Miguel trailhead meets up with our route. Ascend a great trail up the talus until you're at the Vermilion/Fuller saddle, then continue on a great and seemingly improbably trail across Vermilion's fast southwest face. The route finding is obvious here, just stick to the trail. There's a small amount of scrambling on the ledges, and eventually you'll wrap far around Vermilion and come to a wide couloir full of yellow dirt. The trail ends abruptly here and you must scramble up this couloir which isn't hard at Class 2+ but is very loose. At the top of the couloir you'll be able to peer down the other side into the Vermilion Dollar Couloir on Vermilion's east face. Turn west and finish the hike to Vermilion's summit, which includes a narrow catwalk-like section that finishes directly on Vermilion's tiny summit. If descending to Lake Fork San Miguel trailhead/Lake Hope area go back to the saddle with Fuller/Beattie. If descending to Ice Lakes Basin and South Mineral trailhead descend north on awful, loose talus from the Vermilion/Fuller saddle. 
 
Route: Ice Lake Basin
Posted On: 2020-08-02, By: CaptCO
Info: Summer conditions 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-29, By: Flyingfish
Info: Dry except for some snow right below the Fuller saddle and along the traverse to Golden Horn 
 
Route: Ice Lake
Posted On: 2020-07-18, By: dwoodward13
Info: Avoidable snow leading up to the Fuller-Vermillion saddle. There is remnants of a a cornice that can be bypassed climbers right. Headed to Fuller first, then back to Vermilion. Pretty well marked route. Headed down the saddle contouring to the shelf toward the Vermilion-Golden Horn saddle. Some snow on the shelf but no need to traction. Route up Golden is easy to find. We descended a grassy ramp below the saddle back to lower terrain. 
 
Route: Vermilion Dollar Couloir
Posted On: 2020-06-28, By: CheapCigarMan
Info: Ice Lake Basin at sunrise is the most beautiful place on earth. Sloan Lake at sunrise moved to second place. This couloir is no longer in. There's a 50' - 100' section without snow in the couloir. Was very sketchy loose steep rock descending. You cannot see this section until you are upon it in the couloir. Most snow is avoidable navigating the rocks and cliffs below the Vermilion / Golden Horn saddle. Remaining snow was mostly soft in the couloir. Lots of snow with cornice in the bowl between Fuller and Vermilion. No snow on the saddle between Vermilion and Golden Horn. Golden Horn stands mighty and majestic. 
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Route: Ice Lakes Basin
Posted On: 2019-10-14, By: angry
Info: Summer conditions. Any snow prior to gaining the saddle does not intersect the route. Scree is loose on the backside but other than that completely cruiser. 
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Route: Ice Lakes
Posted On: 2019-09-05, By: Kitten
Info: Summer conditions all the way up. There is a patch of snow at the saddle, but the trail goes on the right side and it was dry. I will put a trip report soon if I have time. 
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Route: SE ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-18, By: TravelingMatt
Info: Here's a pic from V5. The col with Fuller might melt out by September... of 2020. 
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Route: Ice Lake basin
Posted On: 2019-08-18, By: dbolton
Info: Slight cornice at saddle with Fuller. I went right of snowfield on the scree and it was unpleasant. Wished I had a helmet along. Photo is looking down on the saddle from start of the Vermillion route. Rest of the route is snow free and quite enjoyable. I thought the series of ledges was cool 
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Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-12, By: Bailey Tyson
Info: No ice axe or crampons needed, though I used them on the ascent from the ice lakes basin. On the return, however, I found a snow free path down. This could easily be used for the ascent as well. The gully was firm snow when I climbed it at first light. Pretty fun, if you want to bring an axe and spikes. The last 20 feet or so was quite steep! The snow free route is at the climber's far right when looking up the gully. In the photo, it goes just right of the small patch of snow right of the main gully, near the saddle. The lower snow is not all that steep, and trekking poles should suffice. 
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Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-31, By: rachel
Info: Camped at Ice Lake. Started at 0630. Using crampons and ice axe, ascended supportive snow to the Fuller/ Vermilion saddle. Also climbed Fuller and Golden Horn. Descended from the Vermilion/ Golden Horn saddle down the dry, but loose scree gully. All ridge-lines are dry. Followed the route description from Cooper's Colorado Scrambles book. 
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Route: Southwest Basin/Hope Lake TH
Posted On: 2019-07-21, By: HikerGuy
Info: Hope Lake trail is near summer conditions and mostly dry. The lake still has ice on it. Plenty of low-angle snow to cross in the lower basin after leaving the trail. No snow on the higher-angle slopes. Saddle to summit is also snow-free. Carried an ice axe, but did not need it. Used crampons, microspikes would probably be sufficient. Might be able to get away with no traction. Ice Lakes Basin is still full of snow and Ice Lake also has ice on it. Also tagged Fuller on descent, 7.93 miles roundtrip. Image #1 - coming to the end of the zero- to low-angle snow in the basin and approaching a short moderate snow slope to gain steeper rock that leads to the upper reaches of the basin. Image #2 - upper part of basin prior to ascending to the Fuller-Beattie saddle, there is a path on rock up the saddle, no steep snow to deal with. Image #3 - view from the Fuller-Beattie saddle, there is a decent "path" that angles up through the talus. Image #4 - bypassing the first tower on the left, looking at the last tower and summit block, there is obvious trail the entire way. Image #5 - bypassing the second tower, summit block comes into closer view. Image #6 - there is one very short section of trail right before the summit gully that is covered with snow; however, it has melted away from the rock and you can squeeze through behind the snow bank. Image #7 - summit view Image #8 - summit view Image #9 - view of Fuller Peak while making my way over. Image #10 - view of Vermilion from atop Fuller Peak. Image #11 - GPX topo map of the route, PM me for GPX file. 
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Route: Ice Lake
Posted On: 2019-07-14, By: kwhit24
Info: The trail is a little muddy but free of snow for the first 3.25 miles. There is avalanche debris on a few spots of the trial requiring some log hoping. After you get out of the basin it is all snow. There is a path with kicked in steps that you can use to get up to Ice Lake. Microspikes weren't needed but the people with tennis shoes probably wish they had them. Both Ice Lake and Fuller Lake are still iced over. The snow is firm and deeply suncupped from Ice Lake to Fuller/Vermilion Peaks except for about a random 10% being thigh deep postholing. No specific area, you would punch through randomly. I have a GPS track for our hike/climb of Fuller Peak and Vermilion Peak but I don't think it would be very helpful. the standard routes are completely snowed in and require many deviations. We had to downclimb steep snow to get off of Vermilion. If you would like the GPX track feel free to reach out. 
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Route: Ice Lake Basin
Posted On: 2018-09-20, By: madadraw1
Info: Dusting of snow above 13K feet. Melting quickly. I got to summit 12:45PM and with that I ran into one 5 foot section of snow / ice that initially made me nervous based on it's less than ideal location. But it ended up being no biggie. Any other snow I encountered was 1 inch at most and soft. The ridge was still 99% free of snow. Aspen update: about 25% are still green, not too late to enjoy fall in the mountains. 
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Route: Southeast ridge from Hope Lake
Posted On: 2018-05-27, By: bmcqueen
Info: Mostly snow from tree line to Fuller Beattie saddle, then mostly dry until close to the top. There are a few snow patches blocking the trail as you near the summit and the final gully is solid snow. I threw my crampons back on for these snow crossings/climbs. Snow in the Basin was great in the am and still supportive this afternoon. Left the snowshoes in the car and didn't regret it. 
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Route: Vermillion dollar couloir
Posted On: 2018-05-25, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: I came up via the Telluride side and it ended up being very dry. Would recommend coming up from Silverton instead. Snow on the mountain is in great shape for climbing but melting out fast, descended via standard route which still holds snow. 
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Route: Standard, From Ice lake
Posted On: 2017-07-27, By: zdero1
Info: Continuous snow on the slope up to the Fuller/Vermillion saddle. Lacking adequate traction, we went climber's right up the choss (awful). On descent, we went down the opposite side of the slope where the rock quality was a bit better. Bring microspikes and have a blast on this fantastic peak. 
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Route: standard route
Posted On: 2016-09-21, By: wondering_hough
Info: Climbed Vermillion on Sunday the 18th. There is minor snow in the basin below the Fuller-Vermillion saddle. The upper portions of the known standard route were dry. 
 
Route: Standard (Ice/Fuller Lakes)
Posted On: 2016-07-07, By: TravelingMatt
Info: Didn't climb it but have a pic of the basin from afar. Nearly all snow in the gully up to the col with Fuller and on the shelf over to Golden Horn. 
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Route: All
Posted On: 2016-06-13, By: Brad Snider
Info: Complete snow cover above 12k. It was so slushy I was post-holing waist-deep by 9am, turned around at this point. 
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