Capitol Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-17, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Snow free until after the Capitol/Daly saddle, and then clear after K2. Would absolutely bring traction to make life easier, especially early morning. Mud on the Ditch trail approach around the creek crossing, but you can find ways across without too much trouble. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-16, By: Tisch
Info: The ditch trail is basically dry all the way to the lake. At the creek crossing/trail junction, it's incredibly muddy and the creek is running a little high. Expect to take your shoes off to cross. I'd highly recommend bringing a small towel to dry your feet off. From the lake, you will only encounter snow on the other side of the Capitol/Daly saddle. There are probably 5 snow fields to cross, but all of them have a solid boot pack. The snow stops a little ways before K2, and the rest of the route is dry all the way to the summit. We didn't bring any traction, but spikes might be helpful to some on the descent. Leave the axe and crampons at home. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-05, By: bforrest
Info: Nothing too much to add to prior reports. Micro spikes and trekking poles for the snow portion are critical. I went back on Capitol Creek Trail and it was miserable. Incredibly muddy and the elevation loss and regain are brutal. Stick to the Ditch trail! 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-08-05, By: Ptglhs
Info: Route is in great shape! Almost no snow til other side of saddle. After that, try to follow the bootline through 2 or 3 wide snow fields. I didn't use traction, though I brought it with me. Ither members of the group did. I brought an axe but didn't feel like it was needed, save for a couple glissades down from K2. Trickiest spot, imo, is after one drops off the NE ridge while traversing over to the final ridge on the climbers left. Several different cairns leading to lines of varying elevations. The rock is quite solid though. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-30, By: Tacocat Climbing
Info: Big day! Started from the Upper Capitol Creek TH (Ditch TH) at about 3:15am. Made it to the lake after about 2hours 40mins. Had to remove my boots to cross the creek before linking up with the main trail. Pretty eerie passing cows on that trail in the pitch dark, all you see is eyes reflecting the light from the headlamp! No issues going up to the lake, and even to the saddle between Daly and K2. On ascending, I took the Ridge Route, which kind of traverses below the cliffs before moving up to the main ridge before K2. There are 1 or 2 cairns for that route, its mostly individual route finding, mostly class 3, but maybe 1 or 2 spots with low class 4, it is a bit exposed, but its a good warmup before the knife edge! This route also avoids most of the snow. There was one small snowfield I had to put on microspikes to cross at the start. After getting up to the ridge, the snow is not an issue anymore. And the route is in summer conditions. Nice and exposed the whole way after K2! I crossed the knife edge cautiously on my way up, but ended up walking across most of it on my way back. What a rush! I took the snow route on my way down, its not bad at all, could probably do it without spikes and just with a pole to self-arrest if you slip out. Though microspikes would help a little bit. I ended up back at the trailhead almost 10hours after my departure and some weather came in shortly after. Great day! Video of the hike: https://youtu.be/c6IBNi5RqTU 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-27, By: JarodSnowden
Info: My wife and I went up Capitol Peak with micro spikes and trekking poles. No crampons or ice axes needed, although most other groups had them. After the Daly saddle there is a lot of snow until a few hundred feet below K2, then it is snow free. Super fun route! 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-23, By: tlh24
Info: From the saddle between Daly and Capitol, headed up the NE Ridge to the first big buttress. From there 12600' descended left/SE just below the cliffs. Then managed a class 4 route to avoid all but 50' of snow en route to K2, though that 50' was very wet, loose, and uncomfortable. Remainder of route was as described and not as frightful. Advise crampons + ice ax. Wish we had them on descent! Also: marmot ate my friends bag! Beware. 
1
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-22, By: connorhodes
Info: Lots of snow on the standard route below K2. Crampons + ice ax made it significantly easier, but it could be done without them if need be. No snow once you get passed K2 so the class 4 climbing is all clear. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-07-24, By: triordie
Info: One snow field from the lake to the saddle. You can lose the trail there in the dark, but easy to pick it up again. From Daly/K2 saddle, we took the ridge to K2. Absolutely dry. Summited K2, downclimbed it, and crossed the knife edge - all dry. There are a couple of small snowfields past the knife edge that makes following the standard trail difficult. they can be avoided up or down. 
 
Route: NE Ridge Direct
Posted On: 2019-07-17, By: Wentzl
Info: Climb up to Daly/Capitol saddle generally snow free. Just a couple small snowfields remain. Avalanche debris obscures trail, but easy to regain. Feet will get wet crossing creeks. Direct on ridge from saddle snow free 100%. Scary looking snow cap on K2 easily bypassed. Knife edge clear of snow. Upper face holding some snow, but possible to avoid all snow with careful route finding. Standard route looks to be 100% snow covered entire way from Saddle to just below K2. Can't speak to snow consistency, but if similar to snow below Daly/Capitol summit on Capitol Lake side, would be ok for travel, but I would guess that it will be a slushy mess on warm afternoons. 
1
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-06-29, By: AnastasiaC
Info: Some close-ups showing Mt. Daly, K2 and summit of Capitol (including knife edge). Still lots of snow in the Elks! 
2 1
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-05-06, By: lodgling
Info: Standard ski route looks fantastic. We were turned around by slow going in the Secret Chute due to unconsolidated snow that threw off our timing to be on the E face on a mostly sunny day. Pow turns down from One in a Million were nice. Bring a tarp instead of a tent and you can reuse our snow pit (see lower right of photo). 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-04-21, By: lodgling
Info: For what it's worth ... (at least they're real). 
2
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2019-03-25, By: nsaladin
Info: Pics from a flight 
2 1
 
Route: South Face
Posted On: 2019-03-16, By: jmanner
Info: In case anyone wants to ski capitol: it appears that it's filled in nicely for any of the “routes”. 
1
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-10-02, By: donjuan08
Info: I summit-ed at 9AM on Monday 10/01 in overcast conditions. The night before, some sleet fell which filled in some nooks and crannies on the route but nothing too gnarly. Traversing around K2 was a little tricky because of the sleet. I arrived back at Capitol Lake at noon, and it started raining (and I assume snowing at higher elevations) and did not stop for a few hours. The weather this week doesn't look conducive to climbing, so winter may have begun for Capitol Peak. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-30, By: gumby3bh
Info: Totally dry. Might as well be summer. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-23, By: shays_days
Info: Phenomenal conditions, route is still dry. Looks like slight chances for snow this week so be aware. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-16, By: DevonK
Info: Route is dry and in great condition. There are plenty of cairns to follow through the boulder field up to K2 and when climbing the Northeast face towards the summit. If climbing on a weekend get a camp site as early as you can. They fill up quick. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-14, By: hberry
Info: Trail is clear from top to bottom. There are a lot of hunters in the area. Was quite windy Wednesday Thursday but wind was blowing you into the knife edge so not really an issue up high. There is an excessive amount of cairns before k2. GPS is helpful. 

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