"The Citadel"  
Condition Updates  
Route: South Face, Snoopys Collar
Posted On: 2021-04-02, By: hogantheepic
Info: Continuous snow from Dry Gulch trailhead all the way to the top of the notch. Conditions are certainly improving, and the spring snowpack is well on its way towards stability. That said, after digging a pit in a quite representative spot of the south face, we found a super deep snowpack (avg 2.15 m, n=12). The pit had mostly strong layers in the upper 3 feet, nothing too worrying, other than the highly variable wind slabs we encountered as we skinned and then bootpacked directly up the face of the Citadel. Skied from the notch, and we were able to ski (nearly) all the way back to the car without transitioning. The last half mile or so between the parking lot and the gate next to i70 was all uphill, so I switched to my shoes and walked up next to i70 to retrieve the car to end a truly fantastic day out. Get out there soon while there is a good skin track and bootpack established up the south face! Highly recommend bringing ice axe, and crampons could be nice too. Ski crampons would've been lovely to have for the skinning in a few places, though we made it work without any of this gear. Me and Jacob used our avy shovels as axes, and Nick used his touring poles. Definitely make sure you time your ski descents properly, or else you'll be dealing with slush galore like we were! 
Route: Dry Creek
Posted On: 2020-11-30, By: Mtn_Topper
Info: Route in great shape 
Route: Dry Gulch
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: Pnick
Info: Started at Dry Gulch. There was a trail more or less up to about treeline, and then from there it was pretty easy route finding up to the east ridge of the Citadel. I'd recommend traversing west a ways through the flatter basin before ascending up to the ridge. There is a pretty distinct trail leading from the basin up to the ridge, so look for that. The final scramble was loose, but manageable. I'd recommend a helmet. It's a beautiful hike though and we only passed three people all day. 
Route: North Ridge (Traverse w/5.4 Chimney)
Posted On: 2020-06-27, By: moltar
Info: Totally clear, continued through to Bethel (came in from Pettingell), only snow was on southern most part of the descent to saddle 
Route: Herman Gulch
Posted On: 2020-05-17, By: Elote
Info: We climbed the northeast couloir on the Citadel yesterday. We started at 5:20. No snow for about the first half mile. We started to post hole after an hour and switched to skinning. We reached the couloir at 9:30 and switched to crampons. The cloud cover kept it nice and cool. There was lots of debris from wet slides. At the bottom of the couloir the snow was slushy with an inch of firm on top, which made for slow going, but once me made it a quarter of the way up, the snow firmed up and was perfect. We reached the summit at 11:15. The snow at the top was perfect, soft but not sloppy. I noticed the snow on the south side (I believe it's called Snoopy Collar) was very firm and needed more time. We dropped in at 11:45. The turns were great. Then we rode as far as we could until we transitioned back to skins. Snow was very slushy and unsupportive on the way out. It was a great day and I want more. 
Route: Snoopy Backside Couloir
Posted On: 2020-05-09, By: CreekRunner
Info: Did Citadel from Herman gulch. There is continous snow from 15 minutes out from the TH to the summit. Couloir was in excellent shape after last night's freeze, but as seen by the debris at the base, conditions can quickly change. We brought snowshoes and didn't use them, but they might be good in the coming weeks as snow melts more 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2019-10-07, By: srsg90
Info: Summer conditions, no snow or ice 
Route: East Ridge, North Ridge
Posted On: 2019-10-06, By: supranihilest
Info: I took the Herman Gulch trail for a couple of miles then cut southwest towards Mount Bethel. I went up to the saddle just west of Bethel and then went straight to "The Citadel". Until I got high on "The Citadel" the ridge was Class 2. The start of the difficulties on "The Citadel" are very obvious; it transitions abruptly to steep scree. Go until a wide, loose gully and stick to the sides, since that's where the only solid and stable rock is. You might have to pull yourself up using the walls of the gully since there's very little else to get you up it. Scramble up Class 3 rock to the summit. If going to the west summit scramble along the Class 3/Class 3+ ridge to the other summit. If rappelling down climb until you can't go any further; this goes at Class 3 to Class 4. The rappel station was not obvious when I got there so I rigged my own by threading a large boulder with webbing and attaching a quick link, then rappelling the 40 or so foot pitch to the saddle. I used a 60 meter rope; a 50 meter would probably be perfect; a 40 meter would probably be stretching it; and a 30 meter might not be long enough. I did not confirm reports of other rappel anchors. If going to Pettingell scramble along the obvious north ridge at Class 2+ to Class 3. 
Route: East Ridge via Dry Gulch
Posted On: 2019-09-22, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Summer conditions, zero snow. 
Route: Citadel to Pettingell traverse
Posted On: 2019-07-23, By: polar
Info: There are some loose rock on the Citadel, but I don't find it any worse than the previous time I did it. Traverse is essentially in summer conditions. Previous report by nickle indicated 5 strands of tat on the rap station, however, someone must have gone up and clean it. The high rap station now only has one shiny orange webbing with one new blue rap ring. Thanks to whoever cleaned up the rap station. In fact, the orange webbing has such a long tail, I threaded the tails through the rap ring and tied the tail together with triple fisherman's knot with plenty of webbing to spare, so now the webbing is essentially doubled. The lower rap station is in decent shape, consist of one blue cord and one black webbing. Webbing is slightly faded in the sun, but otherwise no visible damage. Blue cord has one damaged section which I isolated with an alpine butterfly knot. There is a rap ring and a quicklink on the lower rap station. (Sorry I forgot to take a photo of the lower rap station) 
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Route: Snoopy\\\\\\\'s Backside (NW Chute)
Posted On: 2019-07-23, By: polar
Info: Snoopy's Backside is still in! Snow is continuous from the shelf all the way to the notch between the two Citadel summits. Condition is a little variable due to the many sun cups, but overall still very good for snow climbing. Approach from Herman Lake is easy, there's a trail that takes you almost to the base, and just a bit of talus hopping will bring you to the snow. Photos: #1: looking up from base of Snoopy's Backside #2: 2/3 way? Looking down. #3: Same spot looking up. #4: At the notch between the summits looking at the top of Snoopy's Backside. #5: At the notch, looking at the top of Snoopy's Collar. 
Route: Snoopys backside from herman gulch
Posted On: 2019-06-10, By: Trotter
Info: Trail mostly snow covered after 0.5 mile. Lots of social trails over drainage. We postholed some in the willow sections even at dawn. I would recommend you go on the right side of the creek. Once away from the creek, its hard icy snow until base of couloir. Couloir was in, but very lumpy from previous wet slides. Needed snowshoes on way back down, then trail becomes a sloppy slushy muddy mess about a 1 mile from TH in late morning. 
Route: Snoopy
Posted On: 2019-06-03, By: Sglm14
Info: The trail to the base of the couloir is dry for the first 300 feet of elevation gain then the trail is covered with hard snow in the early hours around 4 am but quickly turns to slush later in the morning.  We hiked to the base of the couloir without snow shoes then ascended quickly as the snow was melting on the couloir so kick stepping was difficult and we decided to descend the same way as the other side did not look passable.  Snowshoes definitely needed on the way out 
Route: Snoopy\\\\\\\'s Collar / South Face
Posted On: 2019-05-28, By: polar
Info: Continuous snow started shortly after the locked gate. Even early in the morning snowshoes were very useful, especially in the trees. Once on the south slope the snow was not supportive, with crampons on I was sinking in anywhere from boot-top to mid-shin. It did not make for the most enjoyable kick stepping. Sun was hitting the top of the route at 8am, and by 8:30am most of the route was in the sun. I used a snow-free south facing slope just east of the Citadel to descent back to Dry Gulch. 
Route: Snoopy\'s Backside / Northeast Chute
Posted On: 2019-05-12, By: JaredJohnson
Info: Started 5a, floatation needed above treeline by 7 or 8 AM. Climbed the chute from about 9:30 to 11:30 AM. Although the snow softened up a lot by 10 and skiers were releasing some loose snow from above, it was a very cloudy day so it remained manageable. In comparison, the previous week we had to turn around at 10:45am due to softening snow at the base of the chute. Crampons were necessary for much of the chute in spite of some loose sections. Easy plunge stepping and some glissading on the way down but if there had been anyone below that would have been problematic with all the snow getting released in the process. By early afternoon on descent, progress was impossible without floatation even a bit below treeline 
Route: Snoopy\'s Backside / Northeast Chute
Posted On: 2019-05-05, By: JaredJohnson
Info: Started 6am and up to treeline no snowshoes needed. After treeline snowshoes were a must although that may have had more to do with the sun being out. About 8-1045a we noted the soft snow but felt pretty good about continuing up and our chances to summit. Right around 1045a around 12,600ft a couple of very small rider-triggered slides went by us and simultaneously we lost almost all ability to progress even in snowshoes due to the snow finally softening up dramatically. It was suddenly clear it would be foolish to continue so we headed down easily. A few skiers continued up the same route and seemed to summit or nearly so and made it down alright 
Route: Herman Gulch SE Shoulder
Posted On: 2019-05-03, By: dubsho3000
Info: coverage is great and Snoopy's Backside Chute is in good condition. I did not climb or ski Snoopy's, but the hoots and hollars from those who did were sufficient information in my opinion. My partner and I climbed up the SE (?) shoulder to the East Summit and that skied fantastically. There are large cornices on the shoulder to pay attention to. Started and finished in Herman Gulch. The lower section is melting out so plan to start booting from the TH. 
Route: Herman Gulch
Posted On: 2019-04-13, By: nicklaw
Info: Low light conditions and intermittent intense bursts of snow and wind today on the Herman Gulch approach. Snow on the approach was 4-6” of dense snow that was pretty well bonded to a firm base. SE bowl very filled in, and Snoopys looked way fat. Solid skin track up to at least 12,000'. Can't comment on conditions past there, as we had our ski day cut short by an altercation between one of our dogs and a porcupine, but there was one party of 2 pushing along ahead of us. We will be back, probably the best base of snow I've ever seen up there! If you bring your dog, be aware that the porcupine den is in the very last patch of tiny little trees that you will pass right off of the skin track. 
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Route: Herman Gulch
Posted On: 2019-04-01, By: aaroncues
Info: Approached the NE couloir from Herman Gulch drainage. A small 1" wind crust was present in some areas from w/nw winds. Some challenges getting purchase side hilling to the apron of the couloir itself with the soft snow pack. Didn't find any slabs of concern on approach or the bootpack. Photos by Alex Frush and Michael Clemente 
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Route: North Couloir
Posted On: 2018-05-24, By: mdmss
Info: Continuous coverage in the couloir but pretty soft by 9 AM. Avalanche debris present but slope seemed stable. While we were climbing up, at least one person skied down. Took, but never needed, snowshoes. IIRC, the first 1-1.5 miles of trail are dry. Coverage for skiing would be continuous once you get out of the trees and hit the meadows. 

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