South RidgePosted On:
2020-08-18, By: supranihilestInfo:
Trail from Molas Pass to the D&SNGRR tracks and then to Elk Creek Trailhead is in great shape. Once heading up Elk Creek there are three avalanche debris piles, each one getting larger as you go upstream. There are plastic flags to follow through the debris. Past that there's plenty of deadfall all the way up to Vestal Basin. Prior to reaching Vestal Basin itself you'll come close to Vestal Creek and see a huge talus gully ahead and above you. This is your route into the basin with Electric, Graystone, Garfield, and Point Pun. Instead of heading directly towards it continue on the trail until you're in a tiny boulder field that obscures the trail. There will be a campsite near the creek to your right. Cross the creek here and then make an ascending traverse towards the talus gully from before. From this point on you will be on rock, often loose, until you're back at this exact spot. When we went up the gully it was full of snow - the snow is probably permanent - but there was a huge moat on climber's right side we snuck up at Class 2+. Continue into the upper basin on boulders and talus until you're underneath Electric Peak's south ridge/face. There's really only one way up this thing, since the southwest and east faces are both sheer. Climb up one of two nearly identical, crappy, loose gullies at Class 3 and cross over a rib or two once up the gully. Eventually you'll find yourself on the upper southeast face which opens up to Class 2/Class 2+. Continue up the face, minding the loose rock, until you're on the summit ridge, which is just Class 2 boulders. Go back down the south ridge. There were mentions in the summit register of climbing the north ridge which didn't look too difficult but I have no beta on that.