Route: From Matterhorn Peak
Posted On: 2020-11-04, By: supranihilest
Info: From Matterhorn I descended back to the saddle with Broken Hill, where the stock driveway crosses. It looks like there's a ton of snow but it's almost all avoidable. Up and over a couple of bumps with some very loose rock to contend with (no scrambles, just loose footing) will take you to the base of Broken Hill's north slopes, which are steep and extremely loose. There's a trail cutting across the slope but it's full of snow and kind of annoying, but better than attempting to claw straight up the crumbling hillside. At the top you're faced with an imposing summit block but there's a sneaky ledge around the right side that leads to Class 2 south slopes to the summit. There's no scrambling at all on Broken Hill so if you're doing any you're in the wrong spot. I retraced my steps most of the way back across the north ridge and down a big, fat, snowy rib to the stock driveway then back to the trail and road.
Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 2018-09-01, By: TravelingMatt
Info: From the upper Matterhorn Creek TH, follow the standard route up Wetterhorn for some 3/4 mile until arriving at a south-facing switchback in open terrain at around 11,300'. Leave trail and continue south on a old jeep road. This road can be followed above treeline to around 12,200'; from there, continue roughly east up gentle terrain to the 12,595' col between Broken Hill and point 12886. Walk up the south ridge of Broken Hill; at the bottom of a cliff band climb up an obvious 20' slot that goes no harder than Class 2+. Above the slot stay on the ridge to the summit. North ridge direct does not go. Instead, descend the slot you came up and contour around west to col between Broken Hill and point 13052. From this col, you can cut over northeast to Uncompahgre but the best way to or from Wetterhorn, Matterhorn or the Matterhorn Creek Trail is over 13052 and down towards the four-way col at 12458'. Last pic shows Broken Hill from the summit of 13158 to the east.