Mt. Bancroft  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2013-05-27, By: metalmountain
Info: Climbed the east ridge of Bancroft on Saturday. Its in great shape right now, and still lots of snow. There is new webbing at the notch for the rap, and both the 4th class go around and the 5th class direct climb out of the notch are snow free. You will definitely want crampons and an ice ax, as there are several knife edges of snow that will need to be crossed. There was some ice in a few places in the class 3/4 areas, but not really all that much. Go get it before the snow melts! 
 
Route: E. Ridge
Posted On: 2012-11-08, By: powhound
Info: Didn‘t climb it, but took some pics from James right next door. It seems to be mostly dry in the places you would want it to be. Could email pics if anyone is interested in getting it Friday before the weekend storm. 
 
Route: E Ridge
Posted On: 2012-07-22, By: Monster5
Info: Upper webbing looks a bit ratty. Lower webbing bundle/ring 15' down is in good condition. A 30m rope would probably make it down the lower rap. The 5.2 section has a stuck nut half way up that can be clipped. If bootied or loosened, the crack to the left takes a #1 C4 well. Clipped the one piece and didn't place anything else, 'sides for the anchor. It's pretty short. The rest of the ridge offers plenty of good scrambling. It could probably be kept at class 3ish with route finding, but there are numerous options. Bancroft to Parry and Eva is a dry tundra/talus walk. Getting down to Fall River Res and up to Loch Lomond is interesting. If the weather holds, it may be better to side hill Parry and Bancroft and return via Bancroft's SE ridge. https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/SextonAndBancroft07222012#5768219259220513106 Pics 
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