North Ridge & Traverse to \\\\Posted On:
2020-07-19, By: supranihilestInfo:
We climbed "P 1" and "P 2" together from a low camp since we got rained off the full traverse the day before. The day before climbing "P 1" and "P 2" we moved our camp down Rock Creek to a nice flat area below a forested gully that allows ascent to the upper bowl. From here we had easy access to said upper bowl, then up crappy dinner plated and chip rock slopes to the north ridge of "P 1". I went out to what I call "P 0", which is the junky red peak to the north, since it offered great views of "P 1". I then returned to my climbing partners and we ascended "P 1"'s north ridge, which just let me scream out in all caps IS ABSOLUTELY AMAZING IN EVERY SINGLE WAY AND YOU MUST DO IT. I can't believe how much fun "P 1" was. The rock is bombproof quartzite in shades of white, pink, red, and purple, the exposure is real, the views west into Vallecito Creek and east towards Rock Lake and "P 3" are jaw dropping, and the scrambling, which I'd say is definitely Class 3, is absolutely sublime. "P 1" might be my personal highlight of the 20+ peaks we did on this trip, it's just so, SO good. The route itself really doesn't need a description, basically just stay on the ridge crest all the way to "P 1". Follow delicate knife edges, exposed ledges, and pure goddamn AWESOME to the summit! "P 1" might be unranked, which means most people don't care about it, but if you do the traverse from Peters Peak to "P 2" and skip "P 1" you are sorely missing out on a truly classic and incredible scramble. If this route were in the Front Range there'd be seventeen thousand people on it every weekend. Do NOT skip "P 1", it is worth its weight in gold (and considering that a mountain weighs millions of tons that's a lot!)
Photos: 1) "P1" on left and "P2" on right. 2, 3, and 4) Scrambling along "P 1"'s north ridge. (Photos 1-4 by Garrett M.) 5) Ascent up from the upper basin.
NOTE: Since this was ascended a while ago and I'm just now getting back to internet, I've put today's date for visibility, since there hasn't otherwise been recent updates for the peak. I'll backdate this CR in a couple of days.