"North Massive"  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: via Massive
Posted On: 2020-09-18, By: Eli Watson
Info: Mt Massive SW Slopes > "Massive Green" > "N Massive" > "North North Massive" > Mt Oklahoma from 10,200' on Halfmoon Rd Nothing new to report on Massive SW Slopes. Other users have done a good job of detailing the conditions recently. No secret that it's one of the few dry routes in the Sawatch by now. Ridge to "Massive Green" > "N Massive" > "North North Massive" has less trivial snow to cross. Felt comfortable without traction 12:30 - 1:30 PM in my Mutants but be careful. Ridge direct to Oklahoma is nothing short of spectacular. Seriously so much fun. Choose-your-own-adventure on the down climbs from "North North Massive" to the saddle low point. Can traverse around on the right if you want to avoid some committed down climbs. Nothing over class 4 in my book but debating climbing grades is all the rage right now. Can get as spicy as you please, but the ridge really lends itself to staying on the ridge crest on stable rocks. Climbing Oklahoma's summit ridge is a buffet of 'choose-your-own-adventure'. Either hang down to the right to avoid real scrambling to ascend snow-pocked class 2 scree and talus, hang left from the saddle low point to keep it class 3 and sneak around to Oklahoma's easier ridge, but true scramblers will feast on the ridge proper. Oklahoma's standard route descent was the loosest rock I experienced all day. Alpine tundra is prime time red right now, but the willows are still green even at 12,000'. An excellent Trip Report for this route can be read here: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=20539 Will upload photos when I get to a full computer. 
 
Route: Grand Tour de Massive
Posted On: 2019-07-14, By: TieDye
Info: The summit register could use some new pages. Please refer to my 2019-07-14 Mt. Massive conditions report for details on "North Massive". 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2018-07-30, By: Cygnus X1
Info: After summiting Massive via the SE ridge, Oldtrad and I made the traverse over to North Massive. There is a fair number of use trails to follow but the route is obvious, follow the ridge until you get to the rock ridges between Massive Green and North Massive. There is some loose scree/gravel to contend with descending to the saddle just before Massive Green. Once you reach the rock ridges scramble around the west side, the rock is generally pretty stable. Our route up the south face of the eastern summit involved some loose scree and talus but it wasn't too long or difficult. Only Class 3 we had to do was on the west side of the rock ridges and the notch right at the top of the route we picked. 
 
Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2016-07-09, By: oldgrayhair
Info: The Mt. Massive trail from the East Slope is in summertime conditions with a few muddy spots from snow melt. I was able to get to the top of Massif Green before running out of energy to continue to North Massive; I have included a picture of North Massive for your information. 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2016-01-03, By: SnowAlien
Info: Solid trench up Massive, but none existed for North Massive. Managed to set a skin track in deep snow. No issues with gaining the ridge, stayed in the trees. Above 12k ridge is windblown, no flotation needed. Long day. 
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Route: North Halfmoon Creek TH
Posted On: 2015-06-05, By: Lyssah
Info: The route starts out from North Halfmoon Creek TH wet but passable. It stays that way for about 1.3 miles up into the trees. Slowly, broken snow drifts start to appear across the trail that must be crossed/postholed. The trail is indistinguishable from about 1.6 miles in on, all snow-covered and poor trail markings on the trees. I‘ve been on this trail several times so I knew how to get where we wanted to go by sensing, but it was VERY DIFFICULT finding any vestige of trail. The large, flat rock slabs that have had past glacial activity are the only indicators of being on the right track at times. We used snowshoes from 1.6 miles to tree-line and were very happy we did so. Temperature was such that we had base layers, pants, gaiters, hiking boots, gloves, snow hats, and medium weight jackets. We elected not to go onto the steep stuff after treeline as the snow looked iffy in the afternoon heat and we turned around. Still lots of snow up there currently. And the mosquitoes are back. 
 
Route: Massive East Ridge
Posted On: 2015-03-16, By: Yikes
Info: Final winter conditions report for 2015 (from me). Yep, the mountain is still there. Good trench from the Hatchery. Snow was pretty stable in the morning and no snowshoes required. The warm afternoon was a different story, bring snowshoes or swim (saw a few postholes so deep that I thought I should dig down to see if anyone was buried under there). No winter difficulties on the ridge between Massive and North, just a long, slow slog. 3 more days. Those with some free time this week should take advantage of the "as good as it gets (in winter)" conditions. 
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Route: Fish Hatchery
Posted On: 2015-02-01, By: Monster5
Info: The current trench for Massive trends a bit far right between the N Massive and Massive ridges. I.e. well-positioned to make a loop out of Massive and N Massive though it adds an additional 3/4 mi RT to just Massive. Snowshoes used both up Massive NE and down N Massive NE ridges for about a mile each near treeline (thanks to Yikes and crew for some morning breaking). Windswept or hardpack on both ridges above treeline. Axe used briefly between Massive Green and N Massive though probably not necessary on a less windy day (we were hiding just off the ridge rather than taking the ridge proper). Sustained 35-40 mph with a gust or two about 50 mph. No stability concerns on route and choosing a good line near treeline to access/drop N Massive NE ridge. Around 15.5 mi for the loop though a lot of it cruiser. Probably goes by faster if you don‘t have to brace every dozen ft. 
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Route: From massive summit
Posted On: 2012-06-04, By: Rcizzle
Info: Sorry this is from my phone so it‘s going to be short and to the point. From Massive summit the route is mostly clear. There are few snow patches that did not freeze well between summit and Green, however they could be avoided. After you navigate around a rock rib on north massive you‘ll find loose scree and some insignificant ice. There is about a 50‘ section of snow with a very low grade leading to the summit that is pretty sturdy on the ascent but does force some minor PHing on the descent. Not worth putting gaiters on. Also give plenty of time on the return to massive summit if you choose to do so. Its grueling and weird freakishly building tstorms have been producing cloud to ground lightning as early as 9:45. That was the case on Saturday especially with warm above average temps and up slope up valley winds driven should cause some concern when you‘re up there. As we near the Soltice the longer duration of sunhit has really made for some interesting weather. From the fire weather forecasts, this is not monsoonal so the 12 o‘clock rule hasn‘t been very reliable. Happy climbing all. 

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