2016-06-18, By: spidermanInfo:
Easy approach to Chasm Lake. It is possible to stay mostly on rock bands until the traverse across the snowfield that leads to the exit ramps. It is steep at that point, and slushy by mid-day. We brought crampons, ice axes, and protected the traverse with a picket. More seasoned snow climbers were crossing with just microspikes and an ice axe. The angle is ~40 degrees at that point.
Above the Loft, the route is 90% rock and 10% snow.