Lizard Head  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2020-10-08, By: desertdog
Info: Route completely dry. Loose, but not as loose as I was expecting. With the weather coming in next week, the next couple days may be the last chance for a dry climb. 
 
Route: SW Chimney
Posted On: 2020-09-28, By: jscully205
Info: Still summer conditions. Approached from Cross Mtn TH. Climb itself is dry and mostly clean but there is a loose hold about 40 ft up the first pitch the left side to be cautious about. All anchors in good shape. Would recommend unroping on scree pitch to avoid raining said scree off the side. It's also run-out too. 
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Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2020-07-31, By: SnowAlien
Info: Pretty dry, but very loose. Couldn't help but knocked a few rocks down leading P1. Hide your belayer! Pro is there, but first half of P1 you may have to postpone a placement until you see something than might actually hold a fall (but don't fall in any case). It gets better near the top of P1 and 3rd pitch, while shorter, is more fun. Double rack was plenty. Register needs more paper. 
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Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2017-03-04, By: Monster5
Info: Good bootpack for a couple miles. After, 0.5-1.5 ft of breaking to the Lizard/cross saddle. Windblown with some icy spots up to the base of the route. Sustained 10-20 MPH wind. The new layer of 12+ inches isn't consolidated yet and there is a reactive few inch crust. The layer below is spring like. First pitch mostly dry with some snow in the chimney. Traverse pitch has good consolidated snow and some rock. Summit pitch is pretty snowy but the crux move is relatively drive. Used crampons/tools and rock pro. Anchors in good condition. 
4
 
Route: SW chimney
Posted On: 2015-03-29, By: sstratta
Info: Route is 95% snow-free. Mostly posting this because I figured someone might want to see a Sneffels/Wilson group photo. First photo: Sneffels Second photo: Wilsons, L to R: South Wilson, Mount Wilson, Gladstone, Wilson Peak Third photo: Lizard Head (route not shown) I've got other pictures of the route itself and close-ups of the surrounding peaks with more detail, send me a message if you'd like to see those. 
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