Dallas Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2020-09-20, By: angry
Info: Route is dry until you exit the cave portion of the chockstone. From that point, unavoidable snow to belay ledge and crux pitch to summit. 
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Route: Bootleg gully up, standard (Roach) down
Posted On: 2020-08-07, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Some snow under the summit pitch's chockstone, dry otherwise. Alternate route up a gully to climber's right of standard had some fun, solid Class 3/4 scrambling. Be mindful of start times even on bluebird days, as the cairns and trail segments below the cliff bands on the standard route are, shall we say, challenging to follow in the dark. 
 
Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: dwoodward13
Info: Summer conditions. Snow patch at the base of the belay station has melted enough and its totally avoidable. Incredible mountain. 
 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-07-07, By: thebeave7
Info: Climbed from Mill Creek TH. Trail in great shape to the upper basin then just followed the steep grass to the cliff bands. Above the first set of cliff bands the climbers trail is easy to follow and snow free. When you reach the upper head wall climb the gulley to the right of the chockstones, a few class 4 moves but nothing bad at all. For the final pitch there's one very rotten section of snow to cross. It was the crux of our day, axe was nice for the leader, no need for crampons. You can set an anchor at the base between a pinch in two rocks. My friend placed two tricams for the first few moves off the snow (wet feet and 5.3), then the rest of the summit pitch was clear and fun class 4. Anchor on top had two newish pieces of webbing backed up by a 2 older pieces, all in good shape other than UV damage. 
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Route: Standard
Posted On: 2020-07-05, By: dwoodward13
Info: Route finding was pretty straightforward to the base of class 4 pitch. Not sure if we chose the right spot to ascend here because it felt more like class 5, but had a nice anchor at the top to belay people up. One patch of rotten snow to cross to get to the belay position for the last pitch. Recommend ice ax for this. We bailed here due to weather. Another party reported the summit anchor was in good condition. 
 
Route: South Slopes Traverse
Posted On: 2020-02-03, By: Kiefer
Info: Snow is stable below treeline on all aspects. Depth averaging 3'-5'. Treeline snow conditions is powder. No faceting observed but fresh and granular snow is present at depths down to 6'. Easy penetration of snowpack fist to 3-4 fingers. East, South and West facing aspects are likewise holding deep powder up to 6'. All granular grains with no instability. No hoar or frozen layers observed. Some crust at higher elevations but no more than an inch or two. Strangely stable. Tons of snow down here!! 
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Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-09-25, By: Bigperm
Info: 1. Do not take the standard Roche route up from the High line Trail. He describes ascending through the gullies to the traverse under the cliffs. The route goes up a class3 black gully on the left which becomes grey at its top. This route sucks really bad! There's a variation that's developed over the years to climbers right that ascends a high point between gullies. The trail is a little tough to spot from the High line Trail but if you head to the right side of a low wide grey v shaped gully it should become clearer higher up. The trail is cairned higher up to help you through some improbable terrain at class2+, at worst. There's a great beta picture available from another resource (SP, username Kiefer). Find it and use it for ascent and descent. Use the yellow route in that picture. 2. The summit pitch is not far down from the pedestal to the right. Maybe 50ish feet down around. Picture attached. Crux is the first 20ft then another near the top. Rap slings and rings were good. 3. We used a 60m and were happy we did. The rap through the hole could leave you short with a 50m. Moreover, the intermediate rap above the hole appears to be around a rock that doesn't look large enough and we thought should probably not be trusted. There's another anchor at the top of the class4 bit that gets you to the summit pitch that is good which is a single sling with rings. 4. The anchor above the "green-ish" class 4 climb that gets you up to the summit towers is good. Two new slings with rings. Finding it was easy as we approached it from above. 
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Route: Standard
Posted On: 2019-08-26, By: HikerGuy
Info: Snow free, summer conditions. Rap anchors in good shape, but always inspect before rapping. 
5 2
 
Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 2018-10-11, By: angry
Info: Via 5.7 variation. Graupel and flurries all day. Snow and verglas above 12K. There were 5 pieces of webbing on the summit rappel anchor and a rope left (tagged) above the cave portion of chockstone. Rap'd summit, cave, and 4th class section. Long but great day! 
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Route: East Face
Posted On: 2018-08-26, By: zdero1
Info: The route is completely dry. Not even snow underneath the chockstone. 
 
Route: Standard
Posted On: 2018-07-05, By: bmcqueen
Info: A bit of snow on the ramp down to the summit pitch, but entirely avoidable. Summit pitch is dry (as is the rest of the route - no traction or axe necessary). Slings and rap rings off of summit and lower class 4 wall are in good shape. 60m rope was great as you can rappel through the hole by the chockstone (onto and continuing down a bit of remaining snow below the chockstone). 
 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2018-06-30, By: Wentzl
Info: While there is still some snow on the north face, the standard route can be climbed snow free. There is a small block of snow at the base of the rappel, but is easily passed over. Basically full on summer conditions. Flowers are nice too. Photos are snow on the south face. Snow on the down ramp on north face. Smoke from the 416 fire. 
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Route: Standard East Face
Posted On: 2017-08-20, By: mrickers
Info: Standard E Face route is snow free. Route is pretty well cairned. 2 pieces of webbing on the summit rappel anchor (one black one blue), the blue one looks pretty new. Webbing on the class 4 rap anchor was in good shape as well. 
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Route: \\
Posted On: 2017-07-10, By: d_baker
Info: We did this as a two day trip. Day one approach camp, which was on the S side of the Highline Trail after crossing the stream that drains out of the approach for T0. Day two climb peak, descend, and pack out. I liked doing it this way. We brought axe & crampons and used them climbing a snow filled gully that leads to the first cliff band weakness. The snow can be avoided on climber's right, which is where the "climber's trail" is located. We descended the dirt trail. The wrap-around to the other side to gain E ridge to base of summit block was straight forward and route finding was pretty easy. The chimney was snow free, and we felt better protecting it as we climbed through it. There's an odd move in there, or so I thought. The down climb & traverse to the base of the crux pitch was dry and wasn't an issue. The base of the crux pitch has snow, which I forgot to take a picture of! I used my axe in the soft snow to approach the base of the rock pitch. Wet boots getting on the rock was not a confidence builder! I've read in reports that some protect the climb with only one piece, but I felt better placing three pieces. Also, I climbed on two 30m half ropes, and couldn't reach the top before running out of rope. My belayer was on the "diving board" and had to clean belay anchor to move to base of rock pitch to give me the added length needed to reach top and sling a rock for an anchor. Gear brought & used: two 30m ropes four shoulder length slings/draws one 3' rabbit ears sling #13 nut #1 cam .4 cam .75 Used rabbit ears sling & nut for bottom belay anchor (by slinging chockstone & backing up w/nut). Cams protected climb, ~20' piece of webbing used to sling rock on top to bring up my partner. Rap station has two slings (red & black) with two rap rings & two biners. Looked okay for this season. Was able to rap through big chockstone, but then had to down climb ~30' of steep snow to get to ground. There's a sling just above the cave portion of chockstone, and one could pull the rope there and re-thread it there to rap to base of snow. We didn't do that. Pictures to help tell the story: 
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Route: S couloir
Posted On: 2017-03-19, By: Monster5
Info: Jomah, boggy, Kylie and I went up the south couloir starting from Mill Creek and heading up deep creek to skyline. We took the shortcut down (ledge traverse on right above falls). Should've taken the shortcut route up and down as there is some avy terrain and unnecessary gain on the standard approach. 8 mi/5k/13 hrs. Steep snow/5.7 or M3. Snow is in spring shape. Cruiser in the morning, dangerous and post holey in the afternoon. We had intermittent tracks on the approach but mostly set our own. The inset south couloir proper had firm snow up to 50 deg with a kind of sketchy M3ish top out. No ice. We roped for the topout and summit block. The summit block is a pain. We basically summitted via the rappel dihedral ( two short 5.7ish steps). For some reason, there's a fixed line at the crux. We didn't check the rope's condition or its anchor. A better topout option at similar difficulty but sunny and dry would be to go directly from the thumb notch at the top of the couly up the SE face. If I ever do this in winter again, I'd probably go that way as it can be accessed from the standard route too. Descended standard route. Snow up to maybe 45 deg. Some wet slides on the s face. E face pretty nice once the sun left. 
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Route: Standard
Posted On: 2016-07-18, By: Marsh
Info: Still a trace of snow on the north side ramp below the summit block pitch but crampons and ice axe are definitely not necessary. 
 
Route: Standard - East Face
Posted On: 2016-07-18, By: BenjiFarson
Info: Climbed Dallas last Friday (7/15/2016) I had it all to myself, wanted to share a few photos as perhaps some folks are interested in snow conditions. The Standard East Face Route is snow free except for a minor amount to contend with at the base of the 5.3 summit tower crux, though very minimal and easy to skirt around - reference the photos for an idea. You'll land in snow coming off the summit rappel once through the chockstone, but again, easy to deal with. Besides this, you're snow-free. It's on. Go get ya' some! 
5
 
Route: mostly standard
Posted On: 2015-09-17, By: TallGrass
Info: Clean and dry until clouds rolled in, then light rain, graupel (hail), and flurries. Absolutely no snow below the car-sized chock stone nor anywhere else we saw, but did see snow on parts from Telluride the next day. Took bypass up to above chockstone. Rap station at top and a 30m will work (under 15m distance). Couldn't find the north chimney with weather deteriorating. Scrambled up some some 1-3' blocks to get above the chock stone. Face about ~20' to the right with a belay ledge to lead up a flake wall, starts on the left, traverses to the right and over a protruding body block, then up a crack on the right, under a headwall block to the right again, to gain the summit between the rap block and summit cairn. Rap block had cord/webbing bundle and 3 uniform quicklinks. Also a free cord (white/blue) used in conjunction with slings to make a top belay anchor. PAY ATTENTION TO RAP ROPE AT QUICKLINKS to insure clean pull down at end of rap. DAMHIK. We paired two 30m Beal Randos (8mm). Recommend: LEAVE EARLY so you reach the base of Dallas at dawn. Trail is easy to follow by headlamp with only two junctions from the TH (Wiebe/Last Dollar, Sneffels Highline). Last chance for water crosses trail at Dallas base. Take 7-36' feet of webbing or cordlette and three quick links. Summit rap block:~24', lower 4th class 6-7', and rest for bypass or contingencies. Have windproof lighter to melt cut ends. Photos: 1. "4th class" rap station below summit towers. UV-faded cord double half-hitched to a beat up red sling looped around block. Removed sling, retied cord as secondary with fisherman‘s, and added neon yellow webbing and steel quick link. Left old rap ring. Could use another 7' of webbing or cord to replace old cord, maybe another QL too to ease rope bend. 2. Summit towers. Can climb up from inside on right thru small hole (Roach‘s "Chock it Up" 5.?), or around right via bypass (did latter to summit and former to try and free rope). Tougher option is from inside left through rap hole. 3. Looking up bypass. Work left foot up until can reach solid hand holds. Rap station atop. 4. Vertical 120-degree pano with chockstone hole bottom, wall middle, and summit top. Possibly rapp-able w/ 30m rope, but make sure knotted ends reach. Mulled as ascent pitch with exit at "?". 5. Final pitch used, ~20' right of chockstone. Couple OP link cams and BD #3 used, but flakes hollow. Backpack will catch on overhang. 6. Wineguy on summit with me readying rap. Flake wall topout on right. 7. Descent. Pay attention to all cairns and landmarks, look behind you often, take photos, and leave seemingly ubiquitous cairns on bluebird days alone for situations like this. Took a while to get below cloud cover. 
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Route: standard
Posted On: 2014-09-13, By: KTC88
Info: North face is holding a little ice and snow, but can be avoided where necessary when climbing the summit pitch. No need for microspikes. South and East Faces are dry. 
 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2014-09-03, By: Tommy Dorr
Info: The summit pitch (North Face) had snow and ice. It‘s an easy enough lead though. 

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