Wetterhorn Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-30, By: Marshall
Info: Beautiful day! Did Wetterhorn first then Uncompahgre. Drove to 10,300 for the Matterhorn TH where the road splits for the last time and parked. Easy enough to get there. No snow on the trail all day. Staying on solid rock every chance you get is excellent. There is some fun scrambling near the top. Trail over to Uncompahgre is easy to follow and kinda nice. Minimal water along the way, though. There is one black hill with some slippery scree you'll have to go up (and down) right before joining the main Unc trail. The trail going up and down Unc is pretty straightforward and in fine condition. Times: 2.5 hr to Wetterhorn summit (solid pace with some pictures), 1 hr chill, 3.5 hr to Uncompahgre summit (good pace, few pictures), 1hr chill, 2:15 back to the car (going fast, limited stops). Total: 10:15 with 2 hrs at the summits. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-27, By: jubbuh
Info: Did Wetterhorn and Uncompagre in 1 day from Matterhorn Creek TH. Long day, clocked in 19 miles in 8:30h, hauling it. total elevation gain: 6500 ft. Perfect conditions on both peaks! 
 
Route: Matterhorn to Wetterhorn Traverse
Posted On: 2020-09-17, By: Thevirtualsherpa
Info: Standard routes up Matterhorn and Wetterhorn are bone dry. Traverse had a bit of snow on the north side, but you should not have to deal with it. Full report on the traverse coming soon on the site and channel, but for anyone curious: it is very gnarly. Not so much because of the exposure or technical climbing but because of the mountain conditions (EVERYTHING is loose) for the first 1/4 - 1/2 of the traverse. The first two towers are the worst, almost bailed on the route here because I felt so unsafe. Was sending everything flying from dinner plates to plasma TV sized rocks. Once you get closer to Wetterhorn, rock quality improves but still can't trust 75% of your holds. Thank you to the two previous trip reports on this, both were instrumental in helping me find my way due to the lack of other beta. After the first two towers you can stay true to ridge for 90% of the climb. Loads of class 3/4 and option for 5 climbing here. Was extremely relieved to stand on Wetterhorn after 3+ hours spent on the ridge. Don't recommend this one unless you are solo or a very small party and have the patience to test every single hold and know you still have a high chance of sending loads and loads of rock. Very apparent why this is on no ones "classic" list. 
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Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-14, By: Chicago Transplant
Info: Trail is dry until above 12,800 then some snow on the trail until the shoulder at 13,117. The rest of the route is snow free minus a few random steps here and there that are inconsequential. All scrambling is dry, ramp is dry. Some muddy patches scattered about in the afternoon. 
2
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-09-08, By: lyrichildner
Info: Great day to hike, except for the smoke. It had been clear in the San Juans for a week or two and then all of a sudden they were socked in with smoke. Either way, the trail was clear and no weather all day. First mountain with lots of exposure for me, so that was a little nerve wracking. 
5 1
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-08-09, By: sky_high
Info: Later summer conditions, creeks are drying up. Trail is in great shape, although the pedestrian turnoffs on the upper slopes can be misleading. CFI just added new steps in the valley. Water is plentiful up to the upper valley crossing then basically none past the boulder field. Sheep currently grazing off the eastern ridgelines, be aware and keep dogs under control (these are commercial sheep, not wild). All the class 3 was solid, but below it is some loose gravel so I recommend keeping poles handy, especially for the descent. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-20, By: kspitzer1987
Info: Perfect summer conditions the entire way. No snow to avoid whatsoever. As far as 14ers go, this is a relatively easy hike until the last 1000 feet, then it gets REALLY steep. But that last 1000 feet is where it also gets really fun with lots of scrambling, pretty decent exposure, and a very steep final summit pitch. Great climb! 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-10, By: pbarn
Info: Awesome, summer conditions on Wetterhorn (bar one small patch avoidable snow). Super fun climb. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-02, By: emroka
Info: Same conditions as 6/29 report. Two small snow fields to cross. No need for traction. Melting snow makes the slope a bit muddy in the area. Summer conditions otherwise. 
3
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-07-01, By: s mckinney10
Info: Drove to the upper trailhead in a 4runner with no issues. The trail was in summer conditions, only had to cross 2 small snowfields (no traction needed on ascent or descent). I thought the trail was easy to follow, just look closely for the cairns (a bit tricky to spot around the rock rib). 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: CaptCO
Info: Same as last report. Few downed trees on the trail (which CFI did a great job on), once into the boulder field there's 1-2 hard packed snow sections which require no extra gear. Easy climb to the summit once past the “yellow dirt”. Class 5 direct to the right of the big V, tried to stay true to ridge most of the time, and descended standard. I could see a helmet being useful on the crux during summer weekends. Very good route for someone's first class 3, not difficult at all. I parked below the 4wd TH (0.6mi) a friends explorer made it up, but minor damage. I saw a Mazda heading up so drive at your own discretion I suppose. Not worth the 15min walk for me 
14 6
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-22, By: jonesva34
Info: Near perfect conditions. Two small/insignificant snowfields to cross. But not in any exposed spots and no traction needed. This climb doesn't even really begin until the last 1000' and that's when the fun starts! Proper trail is somewhat difficult to spot once you're in the Class 3 climbing. In my opinion, the ridges and notches that are described in the route information are difficult to follow. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-21, By: MKwhite45
Info: Trail is summer conditions except for a couple minor snowfields. Like previous reports, nothing requires traction. Poles are always helpful. Crux wall and gullies are snow free! Road to the TH is clear, some downed trees that are easy to navigate around. *we did see two bears in the area so if you camp, make sure to keep all food packed in the car! 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-19, By: 14er-er
Info: Summited Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre from Matterhorn Creek TH. A few snowfields on the approach to Wetterhorn, no traction needed. Class 3 section and all exposed areas free from snow. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-15, By: Klad24
Info: A few small lingering snowfields on the way up, but nothing that would warrant the use of traction. Primarily summer conditions. There was some snow and ice in the gully and on the final pitch to the summit which made things a little interesting. However, I believe that snow fell the night before and I would not expect it to be an issue within a day or two. 
7 3
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-05, By: tcrimmel
Info: The trail is in pretty good shape. Only one downed tree fairly early on. There are several snowfields that need to be crossed between the trailhead and where the route gets interesting. They were no problem at 6am on the way up but led to considerable postholing in the way back. There is a snowfield in the class 3 section before the crux along the rib rock. If I had any traction with me, it would have been an easy snow climb. It's avoidable all together but that makes the route a little more interesting. The crux and summit have no snow and are in summer conditions. Still lots of snow in the rest of the San Juans. 
8 2
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-03, By: Christensenje
Info: It goes! Traction could be used but not necessary. Also went for the traverse to Matterhorn. Needed ice axe for the initial down climb but then rest of snow on ridge was solid. Started the traverse at 7:30. Snow on traverse only for first half. Last half dry. I'd think all snow would be gone in 2 weeks. Just be aware that the rock on the traverse is not stable. Test every hold, especially on last half. 
3
 
Route: East Face
Posted On: 2020-05-24, By: Skinuppowdowner
Info: Skied East Face. Choke is becoming very thin. Drove all the way to Matterhorn TH. You can skin to the base of the East face from about half way up the trail, had to hike the first part. 
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-03-06, By: supranihilest
Info: There's an additional six miles each way from the gate on Henson Creek Road to the start of Matterhorn Creek Road. Snow on the road is somewhat OK but has potential to posthole without flotation. Past the four mile mark or so flotation is basically required. The snowmobile tracks are old and unsupportive. Snow on the Matterhorn Creek Road itself is awful. Wet, heavy, gloms to everything, the trench is a disaster of postholes and kaddywompus, slanted snowshoe tracks. It improves slightly beyond treeline but not by much and CaptainSuburbia and I opted to take different ascent and descent routes from the saddle because of the poor quality snow. Snow on the upper ridge is good though and you'll want crampons for it - sticking to the ridge proper is easiest but if you cross any of the numerous gullies they're steep and full of steep snow, generally good, consolidated stuff. The crux pitch is mostly dry. Get a VERY early start to take the most advantage of early morning frozen snow. Flotation, crampons, and an ice axe are all mandatory in current conditions. 
14 2
 
Route: Southeast Ridge
Posted On: 2020-03-01, By: Will_E
Info: Same conditions as illusion7il, just some additional pics. 
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