North Maroon Peak  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2013-07-04, By: WarDamnPanic
Info: Summer conditions on North Maroon, took axe/spikes but never took them out of my bag. Tiny snow at base of the chimney, but avoidable. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2012-09-16, By: SnowAlien
Info: North Maroon - spotted some black ice on the upper route - approximately at and above the chimney level. Snow (if any) was mostly avoidable. Did not descend the 4 class chimney due to the concerns about black ice (north facing, inset). Chose Class 3 bypass instead (it was dry and passable). South Maroon standard route is dry. Descent from S. Maroon in the direction of Bell Cord had snow on upper ledges. Traverse route from Bell Cord was dry. Please, be careful. Image 1 - descent from N. Maroon (lingering black ice in spots) Image 2 - area around crux (chimney) Image 3 - snow on north side of S. Maroon (non standard route) Image 4 - north face of S. Maroon (non standard route) 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2012-07-07, By: Wanderlust
Info: Chimney and entire route is snow-free. There are no ropes left there. Watch out for the goats as they cause some rockfall. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2012-06-29, By: Nelson
Info: The snow is completely melted out. I did North Maroon 3 weeks ago and cannot believe the difference. The chimney is snow free. The rope over the lower wall is gone. There are two good rap stations. One goes down to bell cord and the other is set up to go from North to South. Slings seemed to be brand new. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2012-06-11, By: Nelson
Info: A good Samaritan has put a rope in to help you over that muddy, rock wall at 11,000 ft. It makes life a lot easier, especially on the way down. Apart from that, all snow can be avoided on the standard route and I didn‘t use ax or crampons at all. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2012-05-28, By: AWright
Info: Started at 0330, summitted at 0930. Snowshoes not required, as snow had a pretty good crust. Ice ax absolutely necessary, and crampons highly recommended as well. Approach is free of snow up to the creek, then still some snow up to the far side of the rock glacier. Route up the gullys is free of snow or the snow is easily avoidable. Some ice on the rocks in the gullys, and once the sun starts melting the ice/snow, there are some scattered patches of mud on the trail up the gullys. There are several cornices above the class 4 part, so be careful up there. Definitely early in the season, but it was an awesome climb. PM for more specifics and/or photos. **EDIT** Some photos here. (https://picasaweb.google.com/116018208876794915982/NMaroonPeak) Attached photos: 1- Bells Traverse 2- Pyramid 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2011-10-01, By: kushrocks
Info: Conditions were dry for the entire route until about 500 feet below the summit. Luckily this was just above the Chimney. I took the Chimney but there is an easy class 3 bypass around the corner to climbers right. Above that the snow started and remained until the summit and was icy in several spots. We had microspikes with us but didnt use them on the way up they sure were helpful on the way down on the snow especially the icy sections. With possible winter weather moving in the next few days these good conditions probably won‘t last too long. 
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Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2011-09-25, By: clochard0
Info: A layer of snow (~ 1‘) from ridge crest (~ 13,200‘) to North Maroon Peak. Passable without ice axe or crampons, but microspikes would help with the slick terrain. Class 4 section (i.e. rock bands) free of snow, but class 3 section around rock bands filled with layer of snow. 1st pic taken at ridge crest to rock band & 2nd pic taken of route after rock band. 
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2011-08-15, By: IHikeLikeAGirl
Info: Route is snow free the entire way. Talked to some guys who did the traverse, sounds like snow is not an issue there either, if you stay on route. One guy said he made a routing error and ended up having to ascend part of the Bell Chord and was thankful to have his ice axe for that. Awesome peak, as always!  
 
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 2011-07-23, By: ajfraser81
Info: As of 7/20/11 the Northeast ridge was in good condition. Water still running fairly high at the low creek you have to ford around 10,700, but there are ways to pick across. Little snow (50 meter traverse) at the foot of the North face around 11,500 but not enough to warrant axe or crampons. Northeast ridge otherwise 98% dry to summit, so DO NOT burden yourself with the extra weight of axe or crampons - trust me. That being said, rock is loose and terrain is unforgiving with lots of potential for fatal falls even on class 2/3 stuff up high. Do not take this mountain lightly. 

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