"Snow Peak"  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: From \"Mount Valhalla\"/Snow Pass
Posted On: 2020-10-04, By: supranihilest
Info: The traverse from "Mount Valhalla" to Snow Pass isn't noteworthy except for the last bit to the ridge down to the pass, which is absolutely awful, ridiculously loose and steep kitty litter dirt and scree. This crap is so bad every footfall causes a small slide in a several foot radius. Anything that looks like it might be embedded in the slope only takes a featherlight touch to prove that it is in fact not embedded whatsoever. This section is probably 500 feet horizontal and is pure garbage; not hard, just crap. Down to the pass from the ridge is easy but loose kitty litter. The ascent up "Snow Peak" is mostly Class 2 boulder hopping until just below the summit, where it turns to Class 2+ on giant boulders. Most sources call "Snow Peak" Class 3 but Whiley and I both agreed there wasn't a single Class 3 move on the entire thing, so take that with a grain of salt. We descended back to the pass then down the narrow and loose trail there, which dumps out into a boulder field. We crossed the boulders to Deluge Lake and then the trail, which felt longer than it was and contains a significant amount of uphill on the way out. Don't forget to account for the uphill after a long day. Bonus 12er Point 12,458: After leaving Deluge Lake we took the trail a short distance then went west on grass to the saddle southwest of Point 12,458. We ascended a very steep grass and scree slope to the saddle then scrambled (Class 2+) across the ridge to the summit and back. Descending the slope after all of this sucked. It's quite loose and steep so if you like beating yourself up for utterly pointless peaks then this 12er is for you. 
 
Route: SW ridge/North Ridge
Posted On: 2020-06-07, By: Wildernessjane
Info: Definitely nowhere near summer conditions in the Gores yet ;). Post-holing started around 10,700. We climbed up a sweet little couloir to gain the SW ridge and descended the north ridge for an enjoyable Tour de Snow. It was possible to stay mostly on rock once we gained the SW ridge all the way down to the base of Snow Pass. 
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Route: N/S Ridges
Posted On: 2019-08-12, By: drop_bear
Info: Approach up to the basin is clear and mostly dry. South ridge to Snow is clear, north ridge has a couple avoidable snow fields. Not much snow left in this area in general. 1)Snow Peak south ridge 2)Snow Peak north ridge 3)Grand Traverse 
3
 
Route: West face / South Ridge
Posted On: 2016-08-20, By: Unknown
Info: Above the spot where the tundra gives way to dirt & rock, there's a fair amount of loose scree and loose talus on the face. Once you get to the south ridge, it's a fun scramble up and over many spires and false summits. In all honesty, the difficulty could be eased by dropping below ridge proper on the east side for a bit. 
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Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 2016-07-09, By: WillRobnett
Info: East ridge 
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Route: View approaching deluge lake
Posted On: 2016-06-26, By: WillRobnett
Info: view approaching deluge lake 
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Route: SW/NW ridges
Posted On: 2012-06-03, By: Monster5
Info: Ascended W-facing couloir before intersecting SW ridge of Snow, began traversing to Valhalla, bailed due to impending weather. Ice axe and 'pons used since we hauled them up the annoying approach, but not worth the weight - trailrunners would work fine with a bit of route-finding (axe would also be prudent). Deluge Lake trail is mostly snow-free. A few minor patches hinder following the trail in one section, but it isn't too bad and now there are footprints. Upper basins are mostly snow-free. A moderate couloir up Snow is the only one holding anything in the basin; the rest are patchy or dry. Couloirs on Valhalla/Grand traverse are non-existent from Deluge. The SW ridge (class 3ish) is mostly dry with a few snowy gullies to cross. A bit of snow to ease the descent on the way to Valhalla. The trail that hits the saddle from Deluge Lake (still iced) is dry. The rest of the traverse looked mostly dry. The Gore Creek side held a bit more snow, but not much. Valhalla from Deluge is dry. E aspects seen from Snow were also dry. Pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/SnowandBard06032012# image  

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