Golden Horn  
Condition Updates  
 
Route: From Ice Lakes Basin
Posted On: 2020-08-24, By: supranihilest
Info: Though the route up Golden Horn's east face looks very improbable it's actually quite easy. From Ice Lakes Basin head towards the chossy looking red cliffs below the Vermilion/Golden Horn saddle. This wall appears vertical but relents when you get close enough. Weave your way up benches and minor scrambling, attempting to keep climber's left of the main gully. There's a water polished scramble directly up the center of this gully about half way up that looks like it would go at Class 4 but there's much easier scrambling left of it. Be careful as the feet are basically all kitty litter or rotting slabs, and the rock in general is all suspect. Eventually you'll be above all of the cliffs, make your way to the Vermilion/Golden Horn saddle and then scramble up the slope as it narrows into the chaos of the towers on Golden Horn. Keep an eye out for cairns and a trail that's been beaten into the peak. Route finding wasn't too hard but you could potentially get lost up there. The scrambling was never harder than Class 2+ or Easy Class 3. The final chimney to the higher western summit is also easy. Reverse your route back into the basin, being mindful of the red cliffs below the saddle, which are slightly confusing from either direction. Golden Horn has some of the most amazing views of any peak I can remember, I highly recommend this climb. 
 
Route: Ice Lake
Posted On: 2020-07-18, By: dwoodward13
Info: Avoidable snow leading up to the Fuller-Vermillion saddle. There is remnants of a a cornice that can be bypassed climbers right. Headed to Fuller first, then back to Vermilion. Pretty well marked route. Headed down the saddle contouring to the shelf toward the Vermilion-Golden Horn saddle. Some snow on the shelf but no need to traction. Route up Golden is easy to find. We descended a grassy ramp below the saddle back to lower terrain. 
 
Route: Ice Lakes
Posted On: 2019-08-01, By: nathansmithpiano
Info: Some snow in the basin but no issues there, pretty much avoidable. Ridge was great. We originally planned on going to the Fuller/Vermillion saddle via Ice Lakes first but the route to that saddle was covered in mushy snow so we made other plans. Lots of mushy snow, some of the cut arounds to other peaks didn't look fun. If trying to do the loop, it might be better to start at Hope Lake to get eyes on these areas... 
 
Route: Upper Ice Lake/Fuller Lake
Posted On: 2015-07-09, By: sunny1
Info: Attempted Golden Horn-Vermillion-Fuller today. Trail clear to upper Ice Lakes Basin with a few high stream crossings requiring wading; above the upper Ice Lakes, there are snow fields to circumnavigate. They are not firm enough to support body weight, not firm enough for snowshoes. When we got to the basin immediately below the peaks, we were in feet of deep, sloppy, slurpee snow. After several sloppy full body postholes - without foot contact with the ground below, we had to turn around. We could not navigate through the snow - snowshoes not helpful, ice axe and crampons useless. A kayak with a paddle might be better! Very deep, unconsolidated snow! It looks like late spring up there. It needs a few more weeks to melt out, IMHO. The snow lines from both the Fuller-Vermillion saddle and the Scarlet saddle between Vermillion-Golden Horn are not continuous to the basin below. 
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