Peak(s):  Torreys Peak  -  14,267 feet
Date Posted:  06/12/2012
Modified:  06/18/2012
Date Climbed:   06/11/2012
Author:  boudreaux
 Torreys Peak via the North Ridge   

I drove into Grizzly Gulch off of the Stevens Gulch road and parked before the 1st creek crossing. The road to this point was in very good condition. I had a very good view of the North Ridge from there and started down the road. The creek was still a little high and so I took a detour to the left til I found a suitable log to cross the creek. I walked past the nice cabin on the right and kept going til I got to a fenced meadow. From there I angled upwards to the north ridge through the forest following an old, old trail, possibly a miners trail, it was hard to follow a lot of the time. I came out below a talus field and climbed up this to another forest then broke out into an alpine meadow below the north ridge. It was a steep talus climb most of the way, with an occasional knob to climb over. One small notch in the ridge was no problem. It was ridgeline direct the whole way to the Kelso ridge. The Eroica couloir was still mostly in to about 12,800, but the Emperor was melted out, but could still connect snow to the top along the western rim of the couloir. Once on the Kelso Ridge it finally got interesting and the crux part went smoothly. I didn't scoot over the top of the knife edge, but used the edge as a hold and walked carefully on small ledges to the tower and climbed over the top. The look down Dead Dog was thrilling. The last part up to the summit wasn't fun as it was loose, making my way over to a tiny rib was the best I could do and finally was able to take an long relaxing rest at the top of Torreys. Eventually I made it over to Grays Peak and then one more time up Torreys to get some more high altitude exposure before hitting the Grays Peak Trail back down. It was a nice day walking around the entire Kelso Mountain. Clear skies except a large line of clouds moving in from the south, but not threatening. By the time I hit the saddle at 5 pm, the clouds were probably over by Santa Fe.

Comments or Questions

1st TR on
06/12/2012 17:30
I know I did something wrong, obviously my 1st try, hopefully it gets better next time

Full day!
06/12/2012 18:07
Hey Beau,
Up the ridge to Kelso, Torreys, then Grays, then Torreys again...did I read that right? Yeow, good for you! A full day indeed!


Yes Sir!
06/12/2012 18:10
That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

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