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Summary (in my own words) of historic info from Roof Of The Rockies by William M. Bueler:
The iconic Albert Ellingwood first climbed "the unclimbable" Crestone needle in 1916 with his Energetic Partner Eleanor Davis, who was indubitably named the "Greatest Woman Mountaineer" of her time. After climbing Crestone Peak and making the traverse to the needle, they dropped down somewhere in the vicinity of today's standard gulley route and down Broken Hand pass to the South Colony lakes basin. From there, they made the Humboldt saddle and rounded the cirque to return to camp after 11Pm. They both returned in 1925 with their team for a First Ascent of what would later be named Ellingwood Arete.
I think it was about a year ago that you gave this one a shot with Jim - so glad to see you got it. Huge congrats to you both. Hope to get out with you soon, DM
I recall seeing a similar stacked hex/cam picture on mountainproject not long ago. I thought it was a bit of a joke, but I guess it works! Very creative use of gear at any rate. A nice, efficient way to tackle that route.
I've met some old timers that can stack pro faster than you would believe. My partner whipped on a ring piton in the flatirons several years ago. He weighs ~190, piton was only in halfway. That sucker didn't move.
Planning this route in September, great report, will help a bunch! Hey, what did you catch the trout on?
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