Peak(s):  Pettingell Pk  -  13,553 feet
"Citadel, The"  -  13,294 feet
Date Posted:  09/30/2013
Date Climbed:   09/28/2013
Author:  jonnymtman
 Citadel to Pettingell Traverse  

Time: 9hr 20min
Mileage: 9.5mi
Elevation gain: 4000'
Class 4 with 1 rappel

There are several great trip reports out there -

Just wanted to add a description of the rappel anchors. With the icy conditions we encountered the down climbing was much more sketch and we couldn't find the necessary 2nd anchor.

When coming from Citadel the top rappel is obvious and the large summit block with webbing is easy to locate (needs 3m of webbing), without snow you could likely down climb further to the slab above the 5.4 section. We took a 30m rope because other trip reports indicated that this would be enough. It is not long enough for 1 rap, 60m might be just enough from the top. I have circled in green and drawn the webbing in red for the top rap station and its second set of webbing that we could only see from the bottom. From the top we could not see any 2nd rap possibilities.

We decided to down climbed part of the west side chimney. We found a good horn on the east side about 15m down that took 3m of webbing indicated by the purple arrow and rapped 15m to the ledge at (marked by a purple line). 20m would have gotten us to the ground, but the down climb from there was doable. In the summer the whole thing would be a down climb for us, but it was difficult with frozen spots from the recent wet snow. All in all a very good climb and we appreciated the great beta from the previous reports.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2

 Comments or Questions

I saw your tracks
10/01/2013 04:34
I was there the next day - 9/29 - in the opposite direction. Came across your prints as I came off Pettingell. I had the benefit of one more warm day for melting - snow on the crux, but no ice. Scoped out your chimney as well, but ended up climbing up the center, bypassing the overhang with a move to the left.

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