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A small team of four (myself, John, Steven, and Matt) headed up an obscure route on the southwest face of Quandary Peak. We named the route in dedication to one of my favorite mountaineers... read further to see who!
Our route was up the lower left line you see in the loop of our gps track: heading up the SW face. We came down the "higher" loop, which is Cristo Couloir, directly on the south face. The route basically happens in seven segments: 1) the entrance couloir, 2) the "right hand bend," 3) the first traverse, 4) the second couloir, 5) the second traverse, 6) the final push, 7) the west ridge.
This was our line. Given that it is on the back - or "hind" side of the mountain, given the unusual bend in the route, and given that we were on the mountain that was summited nearly 1000 times by an English Labrador who lived near the trailhead until his death in 2011, Horton, we named the route "Horton's Hind Leg." We hope it sticks. I had the honor of meeting Horton while on Quandary's East Ridge, once. I hope the route does him justice.
We had a bright full moon over North Star Mountain (13,614') as we headed in from Blue Lakes in the wee hours before dawn.
Rounding Quandary's south face onto its southwest side, we entered the snow couloirs (and there are many to choose from) on the prominent line you see directly above John in this photo.
The snow was pretty soft due to the week's worth of new snow we got before the climb.
A view from near the base of the entrance couloir. This would begin about 1800' vertical of nearly continuous snow climbing at a low angle, probably in the upper 30 degree ranges.
Topping out of the entrance couloir (about 600' vertical)...
...you make a "right hand bend" and head up some even lower angle snow for only about 150' vertical.
Here you can grab a small rock outcropping for a break before heading climber's right for the first traverse.
Head over the rock spine immediately to your right...
...and make your way to the firmer snow in the shade of the opposite rock rib.
It's then another 500' vertical to the top of the second couloir.
You exit climber's right under the red arrow if you want to get in a bit more snow climbing before grabbing the west ridge.
That's me in knee deep snow heading up the second couloir.
Many lines to choose from.
We approached another rock outcropping for a snack and water before heading up to the right.
Coming up to the rock outcropping.
Beautiful views of the gnarly ridge around Wheeler, Drift Peak, and Fletcher as we had our snack.
Taking that exit route to the right of the second couloir, we got our first real sun hit.
The footprints emphasize our route from the rock outcropping to the top of the second couloir.
From there, you gain another 100' vertical up a snow field...
...before the ascending, rightward angled second traverse of another 100' vertical or so.
Just enough angle that - in soft snow like we had - you want to take some care crossing the traverse.
And then it's about 300' feet for the "final push."
Topping out on the west ridge, to climber's left of the summit.
The view from atop the ridge and back down the "final push."
After a bit of rock scrambling headed to climber's right along the west ridge, you come into sight of the summit.
Some mild cornice to navigate.
...and some great views.
View of the Gore Range from the summit.
Summit shot of the team! Thanks for all of the work; I really enjoyed the climb and the companionship.
A look back up towards Wheeler Mountain from Blue Lakes Road and our approach route. It was a blue bird day, a truly alpine feeling and isolated climb in an otherwise usually populated peak, and hopefully a fitting tribute to Horton.
My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):
Excellent report, I was part of the group of four skiers you met just below the Blue Lakes Dam. I hope the name for this unique route sticks. Well don!
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