Peak(s):  Gannett Peak - 13804
Date Posted:  09/08/2016
Date Climbed:   08/28/2016
Author:  strudolyubov
 Gannett Peak from Titcomb Basin   

Route: Gooseneck Route with approach from Titcomb Basin via Bonney Pass
Dates: Aug. 27-29, 2016
Day 1: Approach to the upper Titcomb Basin from Elkhart Park
Day 2: Summit climb via Bonney Pass
Day 3: Return to Elkhart Park TH
Grade: Class 3-4 with short sections of Low Class 5; snow up to ~35 degrees
Route Length: 46mi with 10,700ft of elevation gain
Climbers: strudolyubov (solo)

Useful maps: Wind River Range North (Beartooth Publishing; Scale 1:50,000). (Map on amazon.com)

Approach to the upper Titcomb Basin from Elkhart Park (August 27, 2016): ~16.6 miles with 3,200 ft of elevation gain; Total time: 6h30m

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Map of the route. The approach to the upper Titcomb Basin is shown with blue line. Climbing route is shown in red.


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Seneca Lake. Seen in the background are Mount Lester (center) and Fremont group peaks (left)


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Looking down at Island Lake.


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Indian Pass Trail and the unnamed lake at 10,467 ft. The entrance into Titcomb Basin is right of center.


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Entering the Titcomb Basin with unnamed lake at 10,548 ft ahead.


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Right-to-left: Fremont Peak, Mt Sacagawea and Mt Helen seen from the trail near the lower Titcomb Lake.


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The upper Titcomb Lake. Mt Helen is on the right. Bonney Pass is seen on the left from it. The peak in the center with glacier is Mt Woodrow Wilson.


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The upper Titcomb Basin.


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Evening light on Mt Sacagawea and Fremont Peak.


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Camp in the upper Titcomb Basin with sunset light on Mt Helen.


Summit climb from camp in the upper Titcomb Basin (August 28, 2016): ~12.8 miles with 5,800 ft of elevation gain; Total time: 11h20m

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Detailed map of the climbing route.


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Starting a climb to Bonney Pass. Would be much nicer with snow ...


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A messy terrain close to the top of Bonney Pass.


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Gannett Peak from Bonney Pass.Red dotted line-climbing route. It crosses Dinwoody Glacier and ascends the Gooseneck rib and traverses the summit ridge


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Descending on Dinwoody Glacier.


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Water runnels on Dinwoody Glacier.


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Looking back accross Dinwoody Glacier with Bonney Pass seen in the center.


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Crossing over to the Gooseneck rock rib.


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Crevassed ice at the base of the Gooseneck rib.


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Dinwoody Glacier from the Gooseneck rock rib.


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Looking up Gooseneck Glacier.


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Scrambling terrain on the Gooseneck rock rib.


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Approaching the base of the Gooseneck Pinnacle (left).


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Bergshrund and snow bridges (left-center and right-center). The bridge on the left leads to the black ice slope, the right one leads to snow slope.


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Snow bridge on the left. Note black ice slope above.


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Bergshrund/moat on the right side.


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Looking down at the bridge on the right side of the bergshrund. It leads to a reasonably good snow, which allows to traverse to the rocks on the right


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Rappel anchor on the right side above the bergshrund. 30m rope is long enough to rappel over the right side of the bergshrund.


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Another rappel anchor on the right side rock rib.


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Looking down the slope above the bergshrund.


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Gooseneck Pinnacle seen from the top of the rock rib.


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The summit slope and ridge on Gannett Peak.


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Approaching the false summit.


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Main summit of Gannett Peak seen from the false summit.


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The upper part of the route (dotted red line) seen from the false summit.


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Gannett Peak: false summit view NW.


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Gannett Peak summit: view south along the summit ridge with Mammoth (center-right) and Dinwoody Glaciers (left) seen in the background.


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Mount Helen seen on the descent from Bonney Pass. The classic Tower Ridge traverse (III, 5.7) climbs over towers right of main summit.


Hike out back to Elkhart Park (August 29, 2016): ~16.6 miles with 1,700 ft of elevation gain; Total time: 6h20m

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Looking back at Fremont and Titcomb Area peaks.


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Island Lake panorama.



Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
kaiman

Nice trip report!
09/08/2016 18:31
And great pictures. Congratulations on a successful summit. It's interesting to compare your report to those from earlier in the year. I am planning on climbing Gannett at some point in the next couple years and am trying to decide when to go. It looks like a late August climb would be a viable option. How was the quality of the rock once you passed the bergschrund?


globreal

Beautiful!
09/08/2016 21:06
Nice TR and quick trip. I did this last summer and loved this place! It's a wonderful outing...however, I took more time to do it. Thanks for sharing.


Jay521

Awesome.....
09/09/2016 16:00
Very, very nice...


tobiasfunke

Beautiful
09/10/2016 09:04
Undoubtedly one of the most beautiful parts of the country.



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