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Peak(s):  Hagerman Peak  -  13,848 feet
Snowmass Peak  -  13,602 feet
"Fravert Peak"  -  13,063 feet
Date Posted:  09/20/2018
Date Climbed:   09/14/2018
Author:  Cool Hand Luke
 Hagerman, Snowmass Peak and Pt. 13062 B Linkup or A Boring Trip Report Name for an Exciting Day   

In my research I could not find much information about Snowmass and Hagerman from the south gully or the approach from the Snowmass Trailhead. Hope this report helps others with safe route planning!

19098_20
Rough Route minus bike

The alarm rang earlier than I hoped and I was pretty groggy waking up. I went down to the kitchen to make breakfast and coffee and wrapped up packing everything I needed for the day on my gravel grinder, Black Buttey. At about 5:30AM I was pedaling by the light of my headlamp and heading towards Divide Road to the Snowmass/Maroon Trailhead, with the sound of my tires and hum of my chain breaking the silence. The early morning starts and biking in the dark have become a bit routine as I try to climb all the Elk Range 13ers by biking to the trailhead; Snowmass Pk., Hagerman and 13062 came to 21/52 summits so far.

19098_13

Black Buttey Loaded Up

I reached the trailhead a bit before 7 AM and locked up Black Buttey and transitioned to running gear. I managed to get a bagel down before starting the run, it was going to end a long day and I could use all the food I could get.

I began running up the trail in the cool of the morning and did not run into a soul until right before the log jam. The log jam was really low, as expected during a low snow year and this late in the season. I was across in no time at all, laughing at the time I fell in with a full pack during peak runoff in 2011.

My biggest regret of the day came right before Snowmass Lake when I failed to fill up my single handheld at a creek crossing. I assumed the higher Four Pass Loop sources would be running, but I could not fill my bottle from them and water was a concern for the remainder of the day.

19098_04First View of Snowmass Peak

At the top of Trailrider Pass I took stock and ate a bar. I decided to hit the elusive South Gulley the fastest way was to talus hop. It took about 30 minutes from the 2nd switchback on Trailrider to reach the base of the gulley; in hindsight I would have gone down a bit further to begin the off-trail excursion.19098_03Heading Towards the South Gulley

19098_02Closer to the South Gully

19098_01Looking Up the South Gulley


The South Gulley was obvious and, although loose, it was not as bad as described... I've seen worse in the Elks. It took about 30 minutes to reach the saddle to Snowmass Peak.

19098_06Looking down the South Gully

The route to Snowmass Peak is obvious from the saddle, however, the summit itself is not as the ridge is lined with summit-seeking bumps.. I couldn't find a register and several of the sub-summits had cairns as well. Since I was up there I tagged the sub-summits to make sure and reversed the short 3+ class ridge line to the saddle While enjoying views of the lake below. The remaining traverse up Hagerman looked imposing from Snowmass Peak.


19098_05Snowmass Peak Ridge Scrambling

19098_07Snowmass Lake from Snowmass Peak

19098_14Looking Towards Hagerman

Note- Most of the ridge to Snowmass Peak is class 2+ with a few class 3 moves with exposure. Rock was fairly solid on the ridge, stay climber's right for the best route.

Upon reaching the saddle on return I started up to Hagerman. I read that the route was fourth class and loose, typical of the Elks, but could not find much other information. The first half of the climb is a lot of fun and mild third class. The rock was not bad, but holds have to be tested; I've seen worse in the Elks. The easiest and best rock quality is near ridge proper.


19098_22
Crux Area on Hagerman

Around 2/3 of the way up I hit the crux, which is solid 4th class on rock that required testing each hold. A few airy perches and moves and it is back to solid ridge. After the crux the scrambling returned to class 3 and the rock was solid. A few minutes later I was nearing the false summit and only a few minutes from Hagerman's true summit.


19098_12
Summit Ridgeline to Hagerman

The views were great and I took a few moments to have another energy bar and take photos. The fall colors were better on Hagerman than Snowmass as the valleys opened up. I started the descent down the Southwest Ridge, which was more tedious than anything else. The descent to grass took about an hour, not moving particularly fast. At the bottom I found a stream running and sat for 5 minutes or so, rehydrating at my first water fill up of the day.


19098_08
Snowmass Mountain from Hagerman. Why is it named Snowmass?


19098_09
Starting Down the Southwest Ridge


19098_10
Southwest Ridge Descent


After the stream I was faced with two choices- Boulder hop across a large boulder field or lose elevation and bushwhack to try to gain the trail. I chose the boulder field and I think it cost me solid 40 minutes- it kept going and going! Finally I reached the trail after some bushwhacking and was on top of Trailrider in no time.


19098_11
Looking Back at the Southwest Ridge Descent

At the top of Trailrider I headed north towards Pt. 13062B . The scrambling was a lot of fun and all easily class 2 or low class 3. The going was fast and, feeling good so late in the day, I pushed it a bit. Soon I was near the saddle of 12,xxx and 13062 and could see the last peak of the day was not a gimme.


19098_16
Snowmass and Hagerman from above Trailrider Pass


19098_21
Route on 13062 Showing the Best Route up the Second Gully


19098_15
13062 From the Saddle

I started from the saddle with hands on knees and was able to power hike up 1/3 of the way. After that, I resorted to loose rock scrambling, mostly using hands and body weight to negate loose footing. Finally, I came to the crux of 13062B at two gullies. I took the rightmost gulley up and it consisted of a few class 3 moves and one or two class 4 stems. At the top the scrambling was super easy and I was on the summit less than an hour from Trailrider Pass.

The summit was beautiful and seldom visited, the fall colors in Fravert were stunning from this vantage. I took a few moments to take pictures and eat a bar, then started the descent.

I took the climber's left gulley on the way down and it was significantly easier, class 3 at the most. Upon reaching the saddle I followed a small game trail back in a hidden hanging valley towards Snowmass Lake. There was a bit of rock hopping, but nothing too bad. Definitely the easiest rock-hopping of the day!


19098_17
Climber's Left Gully, Much Easier at Class 3 (Photo on the descent)


19098_23
Climber's Right Gully with 1-2 Class 4 Moves (Photo on the descent)



19098_19
Fravert Basin Fall Colors from 13062

Back on the trail I refilled with water at Snowmass Lake and continued the rocky run to the trailhead. I remember it being rocky on the way up, but I felt every rock on the way down!

At the trailhead I had a quick snack of Snickers (yes, plural) and changed to cycling clothes. Divide Road up was steep, but shorter than anticipated. After reaching the summit it was a fast descent to the house, highlighted by the glowing aspen trees in all directions.

By the numbers:

Mileage on Foot: 26+

Mileage on Bike: 19

Vertical: 11k+

Hours on Foot: 11:20

Hours Total :13:55

Like so many of my Elk 13er by bike adventures there are many ways to take off significant time, but part of the adventure is being outside on uncairned routes and living in the moment.




Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23


Comments or Questions
TomPierce
Cool report & project
9/20/2018 11:27am
Biking to all the Elk trailheads, pretty cool! Sounds like an ambitious outing, glad it went well.

-Tom


Cool Hand Luke
User
RE: Report & Project
9/20/2018 1:56pm
Thank your, Tom, appreciate the kind words. It has been a fun project so far, but the biking adds in a lot more planning.

Hoping to get the Crested Butte 13ers next fall in one swoop; getting to West Elk Peak from Aspen will be a project in itself!


zinj
User
Snow-less
8/22/2022 8:26am
Wow. I never even saw gully you used. July 2015 the snow reached from almost the ridgeline to about 1/2 way to the lake. My approach (axe, but no crampons) was just to go straight up, gain the ridge between Snowmass and N Snowmass and tag both (no snow on the W exposure of the ridge). Two other guys on my team went farther to the south - maybe they got to your gully en route to the top. All roads lead to the summit, I suppose.

Weird looking at your photos because it's now evident to me how much the snowpack aided and lifted me - leaving me with only a very short rock climb to the weakness in the ridge.



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