Peak(s):  "T 0"  -  13,735 feet
Date Posted:  08/30/2019
Modified:  06/13/2020
Date Climbed:   08/28/2019
Author:  osprey
 N0 D0   

T 0 has been high on my N0 D0 list due to prior reports of difficult route finding and encounters of endless waves of steep scree. But CarpeDM posted a conditions report on 8/24/2019 which included a map and description of his ascent of T 0 starting at the Eider Creek Trailhead involving minimal route finding and avoiding much of the scree. It sounded pretty good and easy so I went for it on 8/28/2019 .

Take FS Road 637 which starts a short distance to the west of the gas station on the way into ToHellURide on Hwy 145. This is a gravel 2WD road which is fairly narrow and does not give much room for vehicles to pass. Park at the first switchback which has room for several vehicles. The Eider Creek TH starts at the north end of the parking area next to a gate. Follow the Eider Creek Trail to its intersection with the Deep Creek Trail and turn west onto the Deep Creek Trail. Follow the Deep Creek Trail until you see the below sign on the left hand side of the trail.

Immediately after this sign you will encounter a road coming up from the left ( south ) and heading north across the trail. The road is not signed and is not found on any map nor on GAIA. Follow the road to the right ( north ).

You will enter a meadow and see this view as soon as you turn north onto the old road. The point you see above is a false summit before 13,213 Campbell Peak . I followed the rounded ridge on the right to the false summit. If you go this way you will encounter a Class 3 scramble to get to the top of the false summit. You can bypass the Class 3 by going up the ridge to the left and skirting the false summit on the left. I could see another climber on this left (west) ridge.
I went up these sandstone cliffs right where the aspen trees meet the sandstone. The ledges had some loose scree and the aspen trees made handy handholds. This route of CarpeDM avoids the worst of the loose talus but do not fear. You will still get your minimum recommended daily dose of loose scree. The entire way up either of the two ridges involves going on scree. But no need to overdose on it, right?
High up on the ridge before the cliffs of the false summit. It would be difficult to traverse to the west ridge from this point so you are pretty much committed to the Class 3. I went onto the east ( right side of picture ) face and found some Class 3 ledges which led to the false summit.


An interesting rock formation below the cliff.

The beginning of the scramble.
This is where you will top out of the scramble.
T 0 seen from the base of the cliff.
Campbell Peak from the top of the false summit. It is closer than it looks.
I finally caught up with the climber I had seen ascending the west ridge and introduced myself.
Her name is Sharon and she:
Is 74
Summited Dallas two days prior
The day in between Dallas and T 0 she took a rest day to solo the Via Ferrata
Will have done 195 out of the highest 200 after summiting T 0
Is looking forward to Peak 15 next summer
Has summited both Rainier and Denali.

I mumbled something about soloing the fierce Bross - South Bross Traverse and meekly followed her to the T 0 summit.
On the way to T 0.
Looking back at Campbell Peak from the Campbell - T 0 saddle.
Sharon on the T 0 summit.

It had taken me 4 hours 45 minutes to ascend the 4.5 miles ( according to my Garmon Forunner watch).

Sharon pointing out peaks she has done.
Signing the register.
Water in the register had blurred many signatures but you can make out well known climbers: Illusion 7, Otina Fox - aka bergsteigen, and CarpeDM. Otina signed in as the last person for 2018 . Only 4 other people had signed in during 2019 prior to our ascent.
I gave her a head start going down the loose talus/scree.
You can see her orange coat far below in the meadow. She had to wait 20 minutes for me to catch up.
I had done the Belford - Oxford - Emerald - Iowa - Missouri loop 12 days before, and a 14 mile training run on Imogene Pass 7 days before and thought I was in fairly good shape. Going to have to bump up the training several notches.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25

Comments or Questions
Rob Schichtel

08/30/2019 15:34
Sorry I missed it.

08/30/2019 17:26
Have fun on the Lizard Head tomorrow.


osprey - Great report!
08/31/2019 03:15
I only got down that loose scree ahead of you because I had two poles, and you stopped to take photos. Remember, you caught a good hour on me on the way up. It was really fun to climb with you. Thanks for a great day, and good luck in your 19th time running the Imogene Pass race next week! - Sharon


Very cool
08/31/2019 17:19
Sharon, very impressive! We all should be that lucky to hike so well in the 70ties. I met a couple 13ers hikers last year who were in their 60ties and still going strong too.

09/01/2019 14:02
Sharon is most impressive, not only in her physical prowess, but also in her enthusiasm and delight in being amongst the high peaks.

Thank you!
06/22/2020 20:34
I agree with the others, Sharon is most impressive! I hope to be half as cool as she is when I'm her age. Also nice report!

06/23/2020 20:47
It would be great if Sharon could be convinced to give a talk and slide show of her climbing career at a Happy Hour sometime.
It would be most enjoyable.

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