Lessons Learned on Longs

Cables Route on Saturday, March 7, 2020, with Brad McQueen and Amy Gray
12.5 miles, 16 hr 13 min, 4,762 gain

It took me a while to convince myself to right this trip report. I was such a hollow partner on this climb. I’ve been the proverbial weak link on several big hikes, just less experience than many of my partners. But on this hike, I felt like I was a weak link on one of those thin gold chains that comes with a cubic zirconian pendant for only $19.99 (plus shipping and handling). My mental game was awful and that link was ready to split.

Preface: Brad is working on the monthly grid for some peaks, and the seasonal grid for all of them. He needed a January summit of Longs. I needed a winter snowflake for Longs. He asked me to join him for an attempt. I reluctantly said yes. I wasn’t sure I was in shape for a winter attempt on Longs, and Brad encouraged me to give it a try. Brian Sergeant also joined us.

We attempted Longs via Glacier Gorge. It was a beautiful hike into the basin. The trail was in great shape. But near 13,000 in the Trough, about where the Keyhole route enters the Trough, Brian and I gave each other the look. The “I’m-really-tired-and-worn-out-and-this-isn’t-getting-any-easier”look. The Trough was full of unsupportive and unconsolidated snow. It seemed like one step forward was really three steps and half the distance of one. We hollered at Brad, who, like usual, was up in front. He reluctantly turned around with us. He knew from the beginning, this was a probability before we started as both Brian and I told him we were out of shape. We told him, we’d go down and wait for him. But he thought safety was a better plan. I truly feel if the snow conditions had been good, we would have made it. The wallowing in the crappy snow sucked our energy. I would be happy to do this route again, when I was in better shape.

March 2020

Guess what… Brad needed a March grid slot for Longs. I still needed a winter snowflake. Plans were made. Because it was an early to bed and early rise type of hike, Brad offered his spare bedroom since he lived closer to the trailhead.

Because I hadn’t seen some friends in a while, we made plans for dinner. Ryan R. and Chad R. joined us for pizza at Brad’s house. Like normal, discussions turned away from other stuff to 14ers. They asked about our plans for Longs. And soon, we adjusted plans from a repeat try at Glacier Gorge to Cables. Ryan and Brad had done it before. I didn’t bring any climbing gear. But Brad had extra. Ryan also said, that using an ice tool really was a great option going up the Cables, better than an ice ax. Brad had an extra ice tool. I was soon geared up.

I can’t remember what time we went to bed, but we got up real early for the drive to Rocky Mountain National Park. There was very little traffic on the dark roads. Except for a cyclist on the road between Lyons and Allenspark. Brad joked that it was probably Justin Simoni, a.k.a, Long Ranger/Justiner.

Amy met us at the trailhead. She and Brad discussed rope length. She had a 30-meter with a tag line. Brad had 60-meter. After talking about the route, they decided to only take her 30-meter. Less weight to carry and with the tag line, we would have the ability to rappel the full length of the rope and simply pull the other side.

Speaking of less weight. We ditched the snowshoes. Recent condition reports said the trail was solid and snowshoes were not needed.

Speaking of less weight, hey I’ll ditch my ice ax. I’ll have the ice tool, why need the ax. This choice came back to haunt me later.

Headlamps glowing, we left the trailhead parking lot around 5:20 a.m. The trail really was in good shape. Nice packed snow all the way to the Boulder Field. We took a few shortcuts in the snow, straight up instead of following the switchbacks. (In winter, I think this is OK. Snow is a durable, yet temporary, surface in LNT principles)

The sun rose as we neared treeline, adding a beautiful golden glow to the morning.

We took a snack break in the Boulder Field and added a layer.

From here we hiked up the typical rocky terrain of the area toward the Cables route. Was pretty normal until it got steep with a bit of ice and snow. We stopped and put on crampons, near 13,200, just a bit below “Chasm View.”

Chasm View! The view of the Longs’ Diamond face is amazing from here. Simply huge! It’s a perspective that needs to be seen. If you ever camp at the Boulder Field, or have some extra energy coming off the Keyhole, hike over here and see this view. You’re standing on a solid rock probably two-thirds of the way up the face. You have to look down and up to see the entire wall. Wow. It’s an odd, unreal feeling, like standing next to a giant Sequoia tree.

We were at least two pitches (with our 30-meter half rope) below the standard Cables beginning. But the snow was steep and fall zone was ugly, so we decided to rope up here. I pulled out my ice tool.

For some reason, I decided to leave one trekking pole here and get it on the way back down. I don’t know why, I decided this. Seems like a lazy move now. Just shorten it and stow it with the other.

Amy led the way up, with Brad on belay duty. Brad went next and I followed. It took a bit to find the Cables eye bolt. We were lower than we thought we were.

Side Note: the Cables route used to have a metal cable that ran through the eye bolts. People used this cable to help climb the mountain. And supposedly, the cable was removed because it was more of a lightning rod than a hand hold.

But once we found the eye bolt, we changed plans again. We (I say we, but it was really Brad and Amy) decided that the 30m rope wasn’t going to be long enough to safely rappel the section we just climbed up. Would be too short to place us in a solid safe spot. We would descend via the Keyhole Route.

And, now I just lost a trekking pole.

Up we went. The snow wasn’t very supportive, but the rope provided a nice touch of security. Either Brad or Amy would lead. I don’t have much experience on ropes, and leading is definitely not in the wheel house yet.

I’m not sure if we did four or five pitches total. But at the last pitch, I looked down and someone was below us. Guess who?

Justin Simoni

Obviously, he was moving much faster than we were: he rode a bicycle to the freaking TH and still caught up to us. (Maybe E.T. was in his basket?) Justin, not using a rope, quickly made his way from Chasm View to where we were. Brad was above us, and we let Justin go on by.

But, after he went by Amy and I, he dropped his ice ax. It slid down the snow and by some magical power, it stopped just out of my reach. The Force didn’t work, but an adjustment on my tether and I was able to grab it for him.

It’s good that it took me a minute to retrieve his ax, because that gave Justin time to help Brad untangle himself above the crux. Brad will tell anyone that while he can lead some easy alpine pitches, he certainly doesn’t feel at ease in doing so. He was stressed enough leading the crux move that he tangled himself up in his last piece of pro just before the crux and was a bit stuck when Justin came along. Justin helped him like the consummate professional that he is, then went happily along his way once we got his ax sent up to him on our rope.

I climbed up to what was supposed to be the crux of the climb. Well, the crux for me was just getting to that point. I didn’t feel like I had any good foot or hand holds. Spread eagle on the rock, I moved up slowly. Ryan was right, the ice tool really did come in handy on some of these sections. Once I got to the crux, I was able to go up and over fairly easily. Guessing my height helped on that one (not to mention I wasn’t on the sharp end of the rope).

Amy followed and we took off the rope and were ready for the hike up.

My second crux.

We weren’t too far up above the real crux as we encountered a short snow slope next to a boulder. I was third in line. I stepped into the snow. It was unsupportive. I looked down the slope, and it kept going, and going. My mental game was off this day.

I hollered up at Brad and told him I wasn’t comfortable making this move. Neither Brad or Amy had trouble. It took a few minutes, but Brad settled in and dropped the rope to me. I clipped in and climbed up. Yes, my foot did slip as I went up. Would this have sent me sliding down Longs if I didn’t have a rope? Probably not. But I’m glad I didn’t have to find out.

And this is where I realized just how bad of a sleepy choice I made early this morning. My ice ax was in the car. Sure I used the ice tool climbing up to here. But the tool didn’t have the long shaft that I was used to. Brad kept reassuring me, that the tool would hold me, stop me. But it wasn’t “my ax.” The one I have taken on numerous winter hikes and 14er summits. The one I was comfortable with. The one I had practiced with and used.

After I made my way up to Brad and Amy, we had to traverse a slope, side-hill it. I was still on the rope so I lead the way until we came to a large boulder. And I knew what was going to happen. The thin snow near and around the boulder and out cropping wasn’t going to support me. I just knew it. I was happy to stay where I was.

Brad and Amy questioned my pause. Told them I wasn’t going to go any farther because of the snow. Amy went ahead, and yes the snow crumbled a bit near the boulder for her. I probably outweigh her by 100 pounds or more. I didn’t want any part of that.

Brad, being the great hiking partner that he is (no, really, he’s a terrific partner) went a bit below me and the boulder and kicked steps into the snow. I followed, with this questionable ice tool. I SO WANTED my ice ax. I kept thinking how I would look sliding down this slope and falling over the edge of Longs’ Diamond face. Would make for an amazing movie climax scene as the villain is tossed off the mountain Hans Gruber style down to Chasm Lake.

Side Note: Brad and I have talked about this hike a couple times. And one important thing to mention is my footwear. I was wearing winter hiking boots with strap-on crampons. I know this is not a great setup for many hikes/climbs. It’s been good for most of the things I’ve done. I’m well aware it has limitations and have declined invites to some snow climbs because of it. Why have I not purchased true mountaineering boots and crampons? Mostly because I haven’t wanted to spend $1,000. Due to the size of my feet, my boot selection is really only a choice of two or three high-end boots that are never on sale. Not going to find my size on craigslist or an REI garage sale. If I ever decide I want to finish the Frozen 58 or get into couloir climbing I’m going to have to make that purchase.

With that said, the only spot I could have used hard mountaineering boots was here, where Brad kicked steps in the snow. But to be honest, I don’t think I had the confidence in that snow to do that. I kept wondering if the snow would collapse and Brad would slip as he moved across. Now, Brad has said I would have been more comfortable in other spots with a better boot setup. I don’t agree… if I can’t trust the snow, it doesn’t matter about the boots. My crampons stayed on my feet but didn’t have solid snow and ice to grip to. (You should see me get nervous on wet rocks in regular hiking shoes.)

From here, it was a typical Class 2/3 rock hopping jaunt to the summit. We met up with Justin on his way down. He took a fan photo with Amy, who had just completed the Frozen 58 recently in the San Juans. He thanked me again for fetching his ax, and I asked him to return the favor. Could he pick up my trekking pole on the way down?

We spent almost five hours between the Chasm View and the summit. Way too long. Between setting up each pitch and my awful hesitations, we were slow.

We reached the summit at 2:45/50 p.m. We took photos and ate snacks. There was one other person up there that came up from the Keyhole. And when he left, he was gone quicker than could be.

Which is crazy, because it seemed like it took forever to get down the Homestretch.

Once again, the unsupportive and unconsolidated snow freaked me out. I’ve been up and down the Homestretch twice before with no problems.

My big issue with any climbing or hiking, if my feet can’t stay where I put them, I’m done, I’m stuck. I feel like our older dog. She can’t handle hardwood floors. Her toes go all spread apart like a deformed claw as she tries to stand up straight, but her legs go all sideways. (But if she doesn’t think about it and just walks normally, she’s fine.)

Brad even had a bit of trouble in a few spots. But Amy, she’s so small, she’s like Legolas on snow. After struggling a bit, I made it down, mostly backwards, mostly frustrated.

Rocks and crampons over to the Narrows. This was the part I was dreading. This was the part I dreaded back in January. The stories of those who have fallen here were on my mind. There was a large slope of snow to cross, and one small one. Only if I had my ice ax. I felt like Linus needing his blanket. There is nothing supernatural about my ax, but oh how wonderful the false confidence it can give. Does Thor really need Mjolnir?

Amy was in front of us. I asked Brad to wait on me, just so he’d know where my body would end up below. OK, it wasn’t that bad. But, again, my mental fortitude took a hit this day. Brad added some extra force as he stepped across the slope, giving me some better foot holds. (See he really is a great partner.)

I was so happy to reach the Trough. The snow was still unsupportive, but there wasn’t a lot of it. Down we went, zigzagging between the boulders and paths until we reached the Ledges and the route to the Keyhole. Up and over rocky obstacles and one last ugly bit of steep snow to climb. Ugh. My confidence was shot.

We reached the Keyhole about 6:00 p.m. as the sun was getting low on the horizon. The shelter was full of snow, so no place to rest out of the weather. We settled down to take off crampons and grab snacks. The large boulders helped keep us out of the snow for the most part. We needed headlamps by the time we reached the camp sites in the Boulder Field.

Now that the real stress of the hike was over, we had more conversations on the hike out. At one point Amy mentioned the fact I had asked for help, for the rope. I don’t know if she was being kind or just conversational. She appreciated the fact I asked for help. Said that was good to communicate with partners like that.

Back in the trees… the snow was slick. Put traction back on. So tired.

Nearly got run down by a guy on skis. He didn’t expect anyone to be on the trail this late.

16 hours, and some change, after we started, we were back at the parking lot about 9:30ish. My trekking pole was waiting on the car. Thank you, Justin.

I laid down in the parking lot and started taking off the wet clothes and boots. I didn’t want to get back up. But I couldn’t stay here.

We gave our goodbyes to Amy and we headed out.

Food. We needed food. Once in cell coverage, I started looking for places to eat in Boulder along the highway. Most everything was closed. McDonalds was open. I can’t remember the last time I ate at a McDonalds. Yuck. But that was it. Brad pulled in to the parking lot… but wait. Is that a Qdoba just down the road that was open? Yes, but just for another 15 minutes. Hurry Up! We got burritos and finished the drive back to Denver.

I stayed at Brad’s house again. Wasn’t any way I could have driven home that night without falling asleep.

After this trip, I was done with snow for the season. Didn’t want to be near any of the white stuff. Didn’t want any part of couloir season. I was very selfishly happy Colorado didn’t get much spring snow. (Though we totally needed it, fire bans were early this year.) Had to gripe at Brad on a late-May 13er hike that had a few hundred yards of snow. He knew better.

So, after months of thinking of this day on Longs, I finally got up the nerve to write the trip report. I’m a bit embarrassed about my day. I know we all have bad days on peaks. But, redemption is just the next summit away.

Here are some of the lessons learned, or relearned, on Longs this day…

1. Need to be in shape to hike winter peaks
2. When changing plans, make sure you are prepared for the new plan
3. When you’re tired, you can make really bad choices
4. Longer rope is better in winter conditions on Cables (if you use rope)
5. Don’t leave gear behind, even if you think you’ll be back to get it
6. Always take your ice ax in winter, always.
7. If you need help, ask
8. If you feel uncomfortable, tell your partners
9. Footwear can be important
10. Restaurants in Boulder close early
11. Having great partners is essential, especially on harder peaks
12. Justin is fast