Peak(s):  Capitol Peak  -  14,130 feet
Date Posted:  07/25/2020
Modified:  07/26/2020
Date Climbed:   07/11/2020
Author:  Gandalf69
 A dish served cold  

Late September 2019. A friend and I decided to go for the big C only to summit k2 and see weather moving in. We turned around as it began to snow on us and the wind picked up. We made it back to camp at the lake before the heavy rain and lightning moved in. (Not that a tent is lightning proof lol) We awoke to a blue bird day, chilly, and snow up on the peak. Hiking out we figured the worst was behind us. Then we arrived back at the TH to discover our cars battery had died. After a little trip to Aspen and back we jumped it and left. Spring 2020, another friend and I went camping in the valley only to return to TH and see a tree on his truck. I decided once the weather was good I would have to return in order to "avenge myself on the mountain". I came shortly after the 4th of July and made past the knife edge and back. A big high pressure system moved in, and I set out at 4AM on July 11th from the TH. The sun rose and the day became a summit day to dream of. Little to no wind most of the day and no clouds around. I crossed the Rubicon, that is I left k2 around 11 with the peak looming in the background. Many people camping in area were already coming down and encouraged me to keep going. Everything was dry. Past the knife edge and up the ridge I went slow and steady. A group caught up around the ledge crossing part, and we stayed together until the summit. Summit time was 115PM. Views were incredible. After a hour plus break on summit (I know I know) I headed down. I meet 2 people coming up just after I crossed the knife. They seemed high speed and awesome, I wished them luck as I made my way down. Off k2 just after 4, I made my calls before losing cell service. Run into the third part of the party going up. He told me of his friends ahead, and was heading back to lake. They came to camp at late and went for summit because weather was so good. Talk about awesome lol. A few hours later back at lake I geared down for the hike back to the car. After a brief visit with those camping around I made my way back down the valley as the sun slowly set. The mountain and valley gave me quite a farewell. I made it back to my car full of apprenhison, but discovered everything was ok this time! Lol The story didn't end here though. Back in breck, my friend I came with in the fall was really excited for the news and wanted another return. Great weather accompanied us the next weekend, the 18 and 19 as we set out. We camped in the valley in the big meadow area. It was cloudy on our summit day, but they were harmless and broke up as the morning went on. We followed a party up, and at the summit one of them told us he had just finished. He quickly then said he wasn't totally done until safely off the saddle. Some clouds rolled in and we had some snow. It quickly melted, and before we knew it we were back off k2 into safety. As we broke camp and hiked out we couldn't help but smile as we thought about our first experience with Capitol last fall... ps I have a mobile device and need to fine tune report as it reordered some pictures, thanks




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